creyc

I'm looking to upgrade the midbass performance in my truck, while still blending in with the rest of my equipment and sounding good. I know I will not be able to keep up with my substage ever, because I am a basshead, but thats OK with me. I was looking at a set of the Peerless SLS 8" drivers. They would be mounted in my doors, right next to my set of Pioneer PRS C720 component speakers. Door will be sealed and deadened. I have around 150-200 watts available per channel for just midbass. I'm running stereo with no rear fill. I don't have any external processors but I have a P800-PRS head deck with the rear channels unused. What would I all need, and need to do setup wise, to run dedicated midbass drivers?

I'm curious, how do you figure?

You can download the Hexibase Radiation CD, which has tones from 10 to 80 as well as a few other nifty tracks. It's a big download as they're all WAV files but you can get it on the hexibase site or here.

Maybe try starting from the other side of the design procedure, with your goals first. What are you looking to achieve, most of all? Do you know the sound you're after? Also do you have any idea how many cubes each of your subs works best in, or do you have any T/S properties for your woofers? I haven't played around with these particular drivers so if you have any info from other guys who already have experience with them that could be very helpful. Also, for the box I would probably do subs up, port back in your suburban. It tends to work very nicely in SUVs and I wasn't too fond of the subs up, port up when I tested that setup.

Things kind of work in reverse when you're restricted to a set of dimensions and you're trying to maximize the box to use all the air space while still maintaining port frequency. If you NEED 5.1 cubic feet of airspace for your sub, by the time you add port volume to the equation your box is now 6.8-6.9ish, correct. Which sub are you planning to run?

To those getting around 29", are you subtracting the port volume from the internal box volume? You're no longer working with 5.51 cu ft after you put a slot port in there.

thats a really big port for such a small box. With a 5" wide port I'm getting around 52" of port length, and less than 3 cu ft volume. Maybe use a narrower port, 4" port would take the length down to less than 35" which would give you something like 4 cubic feet.

Is this what you're looking for? It's 1.3 internal (1.2 after sub displacement) tuned to 32Hz with 15 square inches of port.

Is it distorting or does it sound bad? I know often times I think my setup isn't as loud as it was at first, but that's just because I'm used to it by now. I don't really think your battery is the problem. It wouldn't just cause the subs to sound "quieter", most likely it would just result in the amp going into protect, distorting heavily, or completely self destructing.

Yes! A resounding yes, in fact. If I had to choose one subwoofer to complete my ride and never change it, it would be a Fi Q, or the AA Havoc (similar to Q, just 'bigger'). Although I will say I have not heard the new Icons yet but I continuously read some really great things about them, the SSA boys are definitely hot on the trail of Fi here! I would check both drivers out if you're looking for something to get loud and sound good doing it!

sure, I can make you something.

haha, i love the smell too. then again I also like chemical smells, and all sorts of deadly things. im a lil ***ed up.

I too am debating nearly the same thing. I really want around 4000 watts at 2 ohms so I think the audioque would be the my best bet but then it's hard to ignore the well proven track record of the 1500Ds...

I dunno about the 9887 comment, perhaps he's insinuating you run active...

I agree, screw the passengers, it's not worth wrecking the front soundstage just so the passengers can hear it a little bit better. Besides, they'll be able to hear the front speakers. My car is tuned and time-aligned for ME, the driver. I figure if I'm the one driving, I get to hear the best sound. It's one of the few areas I get to be completely selfish and indulgent to the extreme. If they complain we'll take their car (and gas ) next time!

Last I heard they were out of magnets for the Qs so they took the order page down from the site. From my understanding the site will be back up when the magnets get there. So find your refresh button and settle in for the long haul! EDIT: found it! Quote from: May 14 2008

Just get your BL reconed to a 15" Put it in a 4 cu ft box tuned to 32Hz with plenty of port area and call it a good day.

Yep, I agree with you about doing the calculations by hand! Every box calculator on the web works a little bit differently and they all have their quirks. You're better off just doing it by hand once than using a calculator and second guessing your work because you don't know if it factors in this or that..etc. And for net volume (Vb), that's actually after port is subtracted. It's kind of odd in some situations, trying to solve for a number that you need to do the equation, but I get close then plug in my outcome port length and then I get closer. In actuality Vb should be fixed and decided ahead of time, but often we're more constrained by external volume and let Vb float around a tad.

Did you account for the end correction factor? The RE calculator automatically adds it in to final port length.

Huh? So what are you supposed to do with it if you smoke the coils, just throw out a perfectly good motor/basket?? Talk about disposable! You'd think they'd at least provide a "core charge" for the dead one, if nothing but to keep the treehuggers off their back for creating a nice source of landfill.

If you're having Pete design your box, ask him what woofers to get! Give him the sound you're after, the car you drive, and he'll be in a better position of designing a system that will work for your setup.

I need to buy myself some of this stuff...Who do i have to kill, i mean PM, around here? money money money gimme glue!

I generally see it as non-Fi fanboy-ism. Not sure if they genuinely dislike Fi products, or have even owned them or are qualified to give and opinion, but like johnecon said they simply dislike forum boners.

Read the glue bottle, they give times for clamping/removal. Also remember not to clamp TOO tightly, or the joint will be starved of glue. Something a lot of people often botch.

I'm jealous! I too have a ranger and am working with those exact same size restrictions but I chose to go the two 15s route and stay below the window line. (partially) The 5" hump on the floor is a pain in the butt, I like your solution to that though. I've always put blocks in the front and used that space underneath for my amps.