creyc

Wow I haven't seen an original voice of the theatre since forever! Very nice find for your friend. Does everything work still?

dont say thatttt! It's just a dustcap, no? No way to pull it out and glue in a new one? It's definitely just a crack so far, barely noticeable now just wait till I get it glued up though. It was so sexy and clean

Trying to finish up the installation of two Havoc 15's in my truck, things didn't go too well as I had to mount and then dismount the subs 4 times till things finally fit right in the box and then in my truck. On the last time I accidentally dropped the screwdriver as I was screwing it in and the handle fell in, onto the full cone-sized dustcover cap creating a 3/4" long crack and wrecking my mood for the rest of the install. I'll post pics when I get over it, or drink enough not to care about material things anymore. In the meantime, is there anything I should/can do about this?

I think I met lil jon once before Didn't he used to have an astro van with like 16 Kicker CVRs or something? He looks like a guy I met a year or two ago down in clearwater (my home town). Man now I wish I would have gone inside to see that thing! It looks amazing

Pardon me if I'm wrong, but I'm guessing you just haven't heard a well built 15", 18" subwoofer setup. In the wrong box, 10's can certainly be quite "sluggish" sounding. Think about rock concerts, using many many 18" or larger bass bins for the substage. And these setups reproduce everything from pop to heavy metal. If larger drivers were inherently "sluggish", there would simply be no market for them.

I will let you know shortly! I just installed two 15" Havocs in my truck, I switched from 2 Kicker 10s in a ported box. Right now they've got 500W on them, the 10's had 1000 and yet the 15's have way more output. I'm waiting for my new amp to manage the 2-ohm load and they will have around 2kW between the two. The havocs are in a sealed box, approximately 2.5 cu for each driver. I just installed them tonight so I have no real opinion on how they perform, except that I think they sounded pretty darn good amongst shoving the box around in my tiny cab.

Maybe you're confusing bracing the box with bracing near or in the port. Putting anything in the port, bracing included, will disrupt the flow of air and cause audible turbulence. You need to keep the port area open and free of any obstructions. If you have large flat port walls it is best to brace the from the back side, either with a second layer of MDF or 2x4's etc. Bracing the box portion itself doesn't present the same bracing limitations, with a reasonable box design. The volume of the box is much larger than is the port, so turbulence is generally not a problem here unless you've done something quite wrong. There are a few things to keep in mind when bracing however. If there's a pole vent stay 2" away from it with any braces, likewise around the back of the cone. Any place there is fast moving air there is a possibility to create turbulence when you disrupt that flow of air. Hope this helps!

I'll definitely recommend the Sundown SAE-1000D if you're looking for a decent amount of solid power with a small footprint and affordable price. It's also stable down to 1-ohm, and linkable with another 1000D for future upgrades. I've had mine going strong on my Kicker 10's, pushing them for all they're worth and the amp hardly gets warm to the touch. Now my buddy has a Hifonics (not sure of the model) "2000 watt" amp pushing two 12" L5's, and while it slams, I'm not sure if it does rated. Bone stock electrical and hardly a headlight flicker. Ultra efficient? Maybe. Not really pushing 2kW RMS? Likely. It's not bad though, and he got a pretty sweet deal on it so he's happy.

Always make it a good practice to seal ALL inner edges and corners with silicone caulk after the wood glue has dried. Woodglue, while strong on wood, will not "seal" a box. On the other hand this is practically the reason for the invention of silicone caulk, to seal things like window frames, doors, subwoofer boxes, etc. Some people run a bead of liquid nails but I've found as it dries little tiny air bubbles form, ruining any chance of obtaining a true "seal". As far as sealing the MDF, it is a good idea. I have to get back to you with the name of that product, my brother recommended it to me. He works in a professional sign shop and they use it to seal wood and foam-based signs (very expensive signs!) from the elements.

I've got about 3/4 of a sealed box for my two Havoc 15's sitting in my shop! Can't wait to install it tomorrow!

Wow that looks positively massive! Besides these guys, does anyone else do a 4" VC in car audio? (I noticed they and Sundown must share the same amp design for the SAE-1000D and their PAP1000.1)

Call me stubborn (or a total bass head) but I can't for the life of me come to grips with the idea that ONE 15 will give me what I'm looking for, sealed of all things! Truly, a part of me hopes you're really right and running 2 will be way overkill Ask any of my friends, my motto and reasoning for building-in 'excess' is simply: "you can always turn it down". It's honestly not a bad reputation to have! So if 1 sealed is plently, 2 sealed should be perfect. Now AA lists from 1.8 cubes up to IB for the 15 Havoc. How should I decided how big to make my box?

I've got two Havoc 15's for my extended cab ford ranger. I want to build a box for them but I'm debating between ported and sealed. I know ported can sound good, but there are certain advantages a sealed box will always have. (such as transients) I listen to primarily rock music. I have about 8cu ft available, and two 15s. How should I go about designing or choosing a box?

I'm still not sure how it all happened again, but I'm sitting in front of two HUGE 15s, much larger subs than the 15's I anticipated at the start of this thread. I have a pair of AA Havocs, and man are they sexy looking! Solid smooth black cone reminds me of a W7 almost. Then of course the back side looks like its ready to eat a JL for lunch.

nah. just fill it up with powdered gold, dump it out and see how many millions, I mean cubes, it holds! (p.s. break it down into smaller geometric shapes that you CAN calculate. shouldn't be too hard)

I see where this guy is coming from, in a sense. It really does help to have a system in mind, something planned out or at least and idea of what you want to work towards. He may not have the means to get it now or even a car to put it into but it just gives you something to look forward to and work for. Hell, I know a bangin' audio system would motivate me to make the grades or get up at 7am to go to work to pay for it. It's good to have goals. Just make sure you're not setting yourself up for frustration though. A BTL is a massive sub, with massive power requirements and nothing about what I just said spells "cheap". Put the time in now doing your research, and it will pay off in the end.

Lets try getting rid of some of the clutter, eh? I just cut it down to 13 of the more pertinent car audio related questions. No offense, I just find the ice cream and pizza questions..irrelevant. 1. How old are you? 2. When or how did you first get into car audio? 3. Your first Car? 4. What was your first system? 5. Whats you favorite car audio brand? 6. Who is your hero in the car audio industry? 7. Whats your dream system? 8. Whats your dream car? 9. Whats the best sounding car you have heard? 10. Were do you buy most of your car audio products? 11. What is your day job? 12. Do you build your own boxes? 13. Whats is your most recent audio addition?

Too long...condense it to 10 really good questions and it will be interesting to read others replies.

My door has so many large "holes", i wouldn't know how to go about sealing it. Sound deadening I will definitely do.

I just saw that amp the other day. I was trying to find some info on it. What do you have against/for it? Sounds like a good, cheap amp if it's like their other products.

Just do what I did and get a set of Pioneer Premiere C720-PRS for less than the price of a set of those Nextels alone. Mmmm they sound so nice too! What are you doing for crossovers btw?

Thanks for the advice so far guys! I just finished installing my Pioneer C720-PRS component speakers. It's hard to describe how much better everything sounds, and my previous speakers were the D-series pioneer coaxes. (not complete junk!) This week I also installed a Pioneer P800-PRS head deck. (upgrade from a crappy Dual) Tonight I also installed a Rockford T600-4 amp for the mids/highs. This amp should have plenty of power to push anything I throw at it speaker wise, which was my reasoning in getting it. Included test sheet rated it at 761W RMS. Things are starting to sound better, but my substage is crap and by now I know I need midbass drivers. Perhaps I'll run them on the 2nd set on the amp, I'm not running rear fill atm. So with this new equipment, does anything stand out as far as possibilities to achieve my goals? Also can you recommend a somewhat affordable midbass driver that will do the job?

I am trying to design a system that will give me very strong punchy output specifically to reproduce the sound and FEEL of drums, kickdrums, etc found in rock music. It needs to sound good, and get loud. To what end would to go to achieve this goal? Is it subs, midbass drivers, high powered components? Door/vehicle treatment? Speaking specifically about the subwoofer portion for now, how should I start? I have 8 cubes of space and about 1000 RMS available, with the ability to do 1800-2200 in the future if need be.

I've heard a lot of good things about the eD subwoofers however. Was it just a bad owner but they actually make good products?