Nikuk

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Agreed... they do look horrible on paper. But when You consider that the new & different things that the input voltage will be doing, then You realise a few things may not play out as well on paper anymore. By no means do I know how to adjust for this using Your modeling program... hell, I've mostly given up on using lump-sum calculators awhile ago. That's why I'm so interested to see how the topology truly affects the performance. <shrug> -Nick

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I thought it'd be a good idea to create a central thread for the plans that we are making for the demo driver. Something that we can reference during and post-testing, something that we can reference for the many reviews to come. I 'll have to get Kent in here soon, as He'll have hands on it next week. As I'd told Mike, I should have plenty of power and space availible in-car, errr esuvee. I'll test mostly in car, as that's easiest for me (where the equipment supports it), though I may still try it in home (if I can source an amp by then). Insofar, for power I'm working with a pair of Orion 1200D's strapped. Nominal power of 2400wrms @ 2ohm. I don't have any plans to use any more power then that, as tempting as the topology is, I will NOT try this driver for any SPL. Well, not THIS particular woofer. As far as enclosures, I'm thinking of a few: 2.0 sealed with & w/o polyfill (50%) 4.0 sealed with & w/o polyfill (50%) 6.0 sealed w/no polyfill 2.0 ported 32 & 38 3.0 ported 32 & 38 4.0 ported 25, 32, & 38 6.0 ported 20, 28, & 36 and possibly the 9.0 ported 20hz Obviously, I'll be converting most boxes into one another (sealing the ported's, "shrinking" the bigger's, and whatnot) so I hope to get at least 1 hour with each alignment. Try out 3 or 4 aday. -Nick

alrighty, I'll have to pick up some more MDF for testing. Looking at the specs You'd sent me, and these specs here, she is definately an HT oriented driver. But, there have been a few of those in the past that became popular in the Car Audio realm as well. Hell, the TC Custom "Uberwoofer" is an HT driver. Looking forward to getting hands on here, maybe I'll be able to get a powerful enough home amplifier to wire this up in house as well by then. -Nick

Yes, this morning. Will look at it tonight and try to catch You on aim. Standing on the drivers side, looking into the driver rear corner of the engine bay there is a big grommet (~6" diam). cut an x and shove it through. You're going to want to drop the lower trim panel under the driver side dash to make it easier to reach in. If You peel the carpet back you'll expose the hard styrofoam foot rest. I pulled that out and ran the wire under there.. The driver door sill trim snaps up, but there is a plastic spike that pulls right out - located near the hood release. The BPillar molding can be a pain, roll both windows down, reach into the truck from the outside (left through frt window, right through rear window), wrap Your meat paws around it and tug (straight away). Once it's loose, pull it up and angle it to get it out. The rear doorsill trim pops right up, but is a PITA to seat back down properly. There is no good place to hide the wire running into the cargo area, so I snipped a small slit in the carpet right where the seats fold, and ran the wire under there. This can be cumbersome cause of the 'chopped matt padding' that they use under all of the carpet back there. You'll see what I mean. Take Your time drilling the ground, alot of the rear is thicker guage sheetmetal. Anything else? Oh, aftermarket HU? GET THE Harness adaptor. I hardwired mine 'cause the adaptor was like $60 or something ridiculous. Well, it woulda been worth it. lol. If You don't: You'll have to run a 12v ign. to the fuse box under the pass rear seat bottom; you'll lose the vss volume adjustments, You'll lose your door / key-in / headlight / etc chimes as well. Little things, but they are good to have Oh, and the orion 8002, 8004 chassis's fit perfectly into the center storage cubby on the floor of the cargo area. The CDT Satnet Xovers fit nicely into the storage pod on the drvrs side in the cargo area. umm, iirc max dimensions are 46w (tween the "wheelwells"), 17h (to the window line) or 21 h (to the seatbacks), and 33 deep (from top of seatback to tailgate). For SPL, DO NOT HAVE SOMEONE HOLD THE BACK WINDOW during burps. that chit lost me 1.8ish dB's no matter what. lol. Umm, i've tried alot of equipment, components, and little things w.my truck. so ask. Oh, if You try to put components in the stock location, you'll shallow mounts or a spacer ring. most 6.5's I've fitted are too deep and the window track hits the motor. the stock tweet is 1/2" iirc. Dont cut up the doors if you dont have to, replacement panels are HARD to find and around $300 each.