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b34tBoX

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Everything posted by b34tBoX

  1. Behind the driver and apssenger seats. Kinda squeezed in there, but should work.
  2. I'll assume sealed since they aren't meant for ported.Looked them up, they look nice, have videos?
  3. Thanks, been talking to a few owners of shallow mount subs on Youtube..haha I think I'm going to do a pair of 12's instead of 10's. Pioneer TS-SW3001S2. (12", 3.25" depth, 400RMS, 93dB sensitivity, 20-230Hz freq. range) Then I can wire to Class-D amp @ 1ohm. The people (who have installation experience) say these have great output and acoustics, as well dig deep for any kind of music. Can be had for ~$120 each.
  4. Hell, these Clarion (ya I know) WF2510D look pretty legit too, and under $100. Plus look nice..LOL (300W, 2 13/16" depth, 40-1000Hz freq range) I think it's safe to say they are hitting lower than 40Hz here.
  5. 2005 Civic coupe, behind rear seats. (which are slide all the way back. Have about 6" of maximum depth) Doesn't have to be mainstream. Looked into the CVT's. Mounting depth too much. I like the Polk Audio MM1040. But 4.5" depth is too much. Think I might just do up the Pioneers.
  6. I don't have much room at all, so driver needs to be less than 3.5" depth. Looking for a dual 10" setup for sealed application. Was browsing what's available and came across: Pionneer TS-SW2501S4. (3" depth, 300RMS and 20-290Hz freq. range) Rockford Fosgate Punch P3SD410 (3.5", 300RMS and 45-250Hz freq. range) Now, judging by spec Pioneer would be the one to get, more shallow and more broad range, including <30Hz. These are manufacturer specs so you never know though. Don't want to spend anymore that $150 each, and something that plays a wide range including <30Hz, as flat response as possible. So far that Pioneer looks like a winner.
  7. 2 15s in a sealed enclosure can still be very loud, it's all relative to the user. Since your goals are pretty basic as the usual "I want it to be loud and sound good", it's hard to say which route would be best for you. I'm not looking for loud, did that, and was great for demos, but for my own listening pleasure found it more of a gimmick than anything. New goal is to sound good but still go deep and move air. Anyways, I'm under the impression that sealed can hit lower than ported.
  8. With my other subs I've done various sized enclosures tuned to 32, 30, and 28Hz. They all performed well on the lows, yet I found that's all they were good for and that's all I listened too, since the higher end of the spectrum 60-80Hz sounded not so good. I figured a sealed would provide me with a more evenly sounding output but still move quite a bit of air.
  9. WHAAAAAAT!!!?? OK, so two 15 Q's in a sealed will do no good for lows? I figured this setup would move alot of air and still maintain good SQ.
  10. I have experience with a ported 12" BTL (2500RMS amp) last year. and a ported 12" BL (1500RMS amp) before that. Figured I'd save up a do 2x15" Q's with options in a sealed enclosure. Would a 2500RMS amp be enough, or would they require more power than that since the drivers will be fighting vacuum? Recommended size per sub is 2.0-2.6sqft. Goal is to slam the lows, should I aim for a smaller or larger enclosure. Also, what's recommended for dual drivers, separate or shared internal space?
  11. Hmm, I'll be putting 2x15's in my rear seat of my '05 coupe. 10cuft. Fits no problem with just having to take the front seats out. These trunks SUCK so much, especially because of the lid hinges. My advice to you. Take some measurements and build some boxes out of cardboard. See what fits. I'm thinking something that is slightly more narrow than the width of the hinges and long. Keep it rectangular to make it easy to build.
  12. Thanks, I had my eyes on the Q's in the first place, just wanted to see if there was anything comparable out there I didn't know about. Also, about making the port 1/2 as wide, I don't understand. Right now I'm at about 14-15sqin or port area for 7.4cuft.
  13. Was considering those but wouldn't the Q's feel like their moving more air with their greater xmax value? 20.5mm versus 28mm
  14. I had a 12" Fi BTL off a 2500D Soundstream Rubicon in my previous car. It sounded great, but got used to that. Now looking to upgrade. Did a cardboard mock-up in my new car (2005 Civic) and trying to decide what subs to go with. I'm looking for a lot of air movement, hitting deep, and sounding clean. Was thinking 2 x Fi Q 15's. What do you think? Would like to keep total power of both subs combined under 2000RMS. Dimensions, minus the angle..Looks to be about 3.5cuft per sub after displacement. Quick question, when I move the port to the middle would I have 14" of length on each side or 7" on each side per sub? Layout will be like this, common chamber.
  15. For the hell of it, I plugged up the port with towels, and yeah, the low frequency intensity definitely died. I thought that perhaps the larger port on the new box decreased the air velocity, which therefore made it seem that the moving air wasn't as forceful. Make sense? Or is it because of the lower tuning? If I want to make another box to slam the lows more, what sort of enclosure would be best? Less port area? Current box is 2.8cuft after displacement with 45sqin of port at 41.5" long, ~30Hz. Maybe build a box with less port area and shorter port, tuned @ 30Hz as well? Perhaps that will give me the lows, and increase air velocity for intensity. I've found that the 32Hz boxes I have sound like they choke on the lows in comparison to my current box which get's deep, and stays smooth, at the expense of air intensity.
  16. I have another box, 2.25cuft @ 32hz. With 32sqin of port. And noticed in felt like it moved more air, at least it moved my mirrors alot more. My current box hits the lows smoother, so just kept it in.
  17. How much power are you using? If It was me, I would build a ported enclosure to opt. specs for the BTL, tuned to ~29hz. How much volume(space) do you have in your vehicle for an enclosure? I have 4.0cuft available to fit a box in through the trunk opening. Before any displacements. Right now 12BTL is in 2.8cuft tuned to 29Hz. 45sqin of port.
  18. I have not really got a direct answer yet, so figured I would post here. Would 2x12" Q's in a sealed enclosure move more air than a 12BTL ported? I prefer low bass ~30Hz. So far, I like how deep my 12BTL gets, I don't want to lose any of that. I haven't heard many systems, so I need to ask alot of questions sometimes..lol
  19. I'm wondering if two 12" Q's in a sealed enclosure would be better than my 12BTL in ported? Would they be able to play as low? <30Hz
  20. How about these specifications for the ports?
  21. Soundstream is running at 1ohm, with gains up just a tad over half. It puts out some serious power, there's no need to upgrade it. Okay, so 4cuft minus .21 displacement = 3.89cuft. I don't think I would need extra bracing. I don't with the 12" anyways. Fi says 3-5cuft for 15BTL. I had thumper build me a box that was 2cuft after displacement for the 12BTL and it sounded great. Fi recommends 1.75-3cuft for that size, so I don't see why 3.79cuft wouldn't work for a 15". PS: I could always use some hardening resin on the outside of the enclosure to stiffen the box up if need be. I suppose?
  22. Alright, change of plans. Here's my final decision, thanks for bearing with me. =] I'm going to do the 15" BTL in 4.0cuft enclosure with aeroports. Would like it tuned to 30Hz. Now how do I figure out the port dimensions?
  23. I'm saying the 12" is OK, but I would like more output on the lows. Build a new box? What's wrong with the one I have. Too large? Amplifier is Soundstream Rubicon 2500D OK, then what size aeroports would I need for 28-32Hz with an enclosure size of 4cuft before displacement for those two 12" Q's, or one 15" BTL.
  24. I could do a 15" BTL in 3.0cuft enclosure after displacement with 43 square inches of port @ 30.5Hz? Box might be too small though. Fuck my car.
  25. How would I fit those combination into the trunk? I have a fold down center passthrough in the rear seat, which I leave open. 12" BTL is fine for what it is, but it's not enough. I'm trying to choose something that still meets Fi's enclosure specifications. I figure that's really important?

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