b34tBoX

Next time, use wood filler with a spatula for the recessed screws before your prime. How many coats of paint did you use, looks like just one?

Yup, just route the power and ground from one crossover to the other, from the amp. Thanks!

Wow, that's awesome! Thanks for confirmation.

If i wired them in parallel off the amplifier, I would be getting 300watts per channel @ 2ohm, therefore each component would be receiving 150watts?

Here' s my current setup. Alpine 9885 (4V) Front: CDT CL-62 (160RMS) w/ Soundstream Rubicon 2.600 (180x2 @ 4ohm) Rear: CDT CL-69X (100RMS) w/ Soundstream Rubicon 2.250 (75x2 @ 4ohm) Fi BTL 12" D2, loaded (2000RMS) Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500 (2500 @ 1ohm) I want to add a duplicate set of CL-62 up front. The 2.600 amp is rated for 300x2 @ 2ohms as well. So I assume, wire the crossovers in parallel from the amp. + to + and - to -. That would yield a 2ohm load from the amplifier giving me how many watts per component at 4ohm each?

Hey, going to build a triple amplifier rack out of 1/2" MDF. Is there a paint recommended for use with MDF, I'm sure this has been discussed before, but I didn't find much with the search. I would like it to be as chip/flake resistant as possible, would spray or roll on be best?

I did a 4AWG ring terminal, the solder appeared to flow right through the terminal. Still no cap, but the terminal is once again solid. Maybe the guy was using a different kind of solder?

k, did a test ring of 1/0, first time soldering. I was trying to follow the same technique as in this video: Here' the result. I was trying to "cap" the end of the terminal with solder like in the video, but it just absorbed into the wire too easily, like a sponge. However, the entire terminal is rock solid now. Success? I used a propane torch at about 1/4 power and 60/40 tin/lead solder.

60/40 solder is OK to use?

All right guys, thanks. I know what to do now!

Here's another: Also I remember seeing St3v3 M34d3's buddy do them using this technique as well, WITHOUT crimping them first. I thought at the time, that would never hold. But apparently it holds very well? I don't know why the name is censored..

For 1/0AWG or even 4AWG terminals.. Of this style: I'll use a screw and put in in the crease and squeeze in a bench-vise then rotate 90* and squeeze again. Usually have to do it a few times each way to get it secure, but even then I don't feel too confident of it's pull strength. There's gotta be a better/faster way.

x2 Where are the formulas/equations?

Cool, thanks!

Soundstream RUB1.2500.D I made a thread in the show-off section. To see if other amps use the same board. Actual measurements are. Input: 14mm diameter Ouput: 9mm diamter Ok, I'll use 22 gauge from the amp then. Well, I didn't measure, but yeah, I guess 8 gauge would work. But then to wire in parallel I would need to reduce the amount of strands at the end so I could either solder or twist two of them together to fit in the terminals. That's what I did with my BL and no problems, I just figured the BTL would have larger terminals. Or if there's a different way I should be wiring it.

On the BTL/BL..etc.. The terminal posts are to accommodate size 12 gauge speaker wire, and if you want to run it from a 1ohm load in parallel. Then you would have to cut the amount of strands in half per wire, so basically you have 24AWG of each going into the terminals. Just seems small. Since my amp (2500RMS) has 0AWG inputs for power, and 4AWG for speaker wire hookups. Other subs with equal power handling I have seen have way larger terminals. Is there a reason to the small terminals? What do you guys do to ensure you able to put the most amount of power to the sub?

I was really just interested in seeing the insides of the 2500D, I have all three amps here and they all look the same from the outside, just different sizes. =] Using: CL-62 - CDT Audio 6.5" 2 Way Component Speakers with silk dome tweeter for front. CL-69X - CDT Audio 6 x 9" 2 Way Coaxial Speakers for rear. I ran these speakers last year, but only the fronts amped, they sounded great. I'm upgrading the sub from a 12" Fi BL (loaded) @ D2, for a Fi BTL (loaded) @ D2. I still can't get over the weight of this thing..lol

Autosounds4less on ebay, great prices, cheap and superfast shipping, they also marked down the item value to lower duty fees for me, since I live in Canada. They also had a sale on all three amps when I picked them up. Total was $687 for all three amps + shipping. Rubicon Amplifiers There's no fuse on the amp, but apparently it's rated @ 250A. 0AWG power/ground input. Was trying again for best bang for buck amps. I'm hoping they perform at least equally as well as the Tarantula series amps I just sold, which I was VERY impressed with.

Received my amplifier today, well actually three. Soundstream RUB1.2500D Soundstream RUB2.600 Soundstream RUB2.250 Here's the internal shots of the 2500D, what else shares this board? Large size: http://sites.google.com/site/b34tbox/amp_inside2.jpg

Nah, York Region. About 20minutes North or Toronto.

I'm not sure, but if you have 2 or more wires, especially of 1/0AWG size, the top terminals look cleaner, IMO. Anyways, I think you've helped me to understand what I need to do with my system, and appreciate all your help! I'm also from Ontario, Canada. =D

It's sanded down and I used metal tooth washers. Vehicle is unibody, but it worked the same as grounding to seatbelt bolt, just easier to disconnect. The 4th wire upgrade is from battery to fusebox, not really necessary. No issues with using top and side posts at the same time, they go to the same source anyways.

Oh ok, so my power wire should be fine if 250amp x 12v = 3000watt? That's if I run a separate wire from the second battery to power the 2500D. Ya? I got a reply from Knu regarding the difference between KLMX and Kolussus. "The KLMX uses CCA, it has a higher internal resistance then the Kolossus which uses Oxygen Free Copper. More resistance means a loss in voltage as the current flows through the cable and that loss means the amplifier has to work harder to make power. At 250A and under, the KLMX operates within industry standards for loss over the rated length of 20'. Beyond 250A or 20' the loss becomes greater then what we feel to be acceptable (above 10%). The Kolossus Kable is rated to 350A,so yes, the difference in materials does make that big of a difference." So I guess with what I have, I should be fine. Thanks!

That alternator in the picture is a POS 200A "HO" alt. I didn't realize that it reaches 200A @ 5k rpm though until later..haha No doubt, I have a new alt to go in. DC Power 270A, 190A @ idle. I think what's best is to replace the KLMX with 1/0 Kolossus and run a high current in-line fuse @ 360A in it, between batteries And use existing KLMX and do what you did, use it for ground between batteries. Then from rear battery run 2 x 1/0 off it, one directly to amp (2500) fused @ 250A and the other to a distribution block, split into 4 gauge. 30A and 60A. I honestly just got the batteries because, they were much cheaper then say Kinetik....etc. (I know they really don't compare though)

Yeah, I guess it would not matter which battery I hook the additional 1/0 too, would it. No fuse from alt to battery. No negative run from front to rear, should I? Big 3: Positive alt to battery. Negative batt to chassis, and chassis to engine. Battery in front specs: Group 34/78; Cold Crank Amps 800; Crank Amps 1000; Reserve Capacity 100; Ampere Hour 50 Battery in rear specs: D34/78; Cold Crank Amps 750; Crank Amps 870; Res. Capacity 120; Ampere Hour 55. I'm VERY open to how you guys would wire it, I'll rip everything out if I have to, I just want to make sure I'm doing it right.