b34tBoX

HU = Alpine 9885 Amp1 (top) = Soundstream 2 Ch 550 Watt Amplifier TRX 2.550 Amp2 (bottom) = Soundstream 1500 Watt Monoblock Class D Amplifier TRX1500D Speakers (front) = CDT Components 6.5 Speakers (rear) = CDT coaxial 6x9 This is weird, last year I had the same problem but I didn't have the extra battery in the trunk and grounded directly to the sheetmetal. I figured the amp was to blame after some troubleshooting, I RMA'd it. This year I added the battery, using the replacement amp which is the same one and the speakers STILL pop during shutdown. Top amp. Picture of setup. http://b34tbox.googlepages.com/IMG_2964.jpg Here's a video of the problem. The speakers pop when the top amp's green light turns off. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5O6hsgyRC4 It looks like the top amp is not discharging properly. What else could I check. How does the light activity look?

12" BL D2 Daily Flatwind Cooling @ ~1200RMS. 2.25cuft @ 32Hz. Just wondering what the subsonic filter is recommended to be set at. Right now it hits all the lows with ease when set at ~25Hz. (Soundstream TRX1500D)

So using the BTL used in an enclosure designed for the BL is OK, or should I build another?

Not at the same time! I have two boxes built for my single 12BL. (D2, loaded, daily) One is 2.5cuft @ 32. Slot port. Homemade The other is 2.0cuft @ 32. Kerfed port. PTS They are both designed around the 12BL t/a parameters. Two questions. Is the BTL a substantial upgrade from the BL? Could I use the 12BTL in the same box which was designed for the 12BL?

The uncensored video is in his 18+ section. Need to be a member to view: http://www.*****.com/board/ind...hp?showforum=24 It was originally found here: http://www.*****.com/board/ind...showtopic=28162

Looking for a video that was on Youtube that showed his Tahoe dashboard flexing to 4 18" BTL's. I can't find it anymore. There's also another one where his center roof console drops. Both kind of old vids but classics. I think someone else other than Steve had uploaded them.

Cool, thanks!

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.ph...r/312025/page/1

Thanks for the help guys!

OK, tested it at 10A. I think everything was set properly. Got a reading of 0.04 What does that translate to?

That's reassuring to hear! Yeah, I can't imagine that the draw is very much, but if it's SUPPOSED to turn off, then dammit it should turn off!

Oh OK, is it safe to remove the positive without disconnecting the negative. I guess as long as I'm not grounded on something.. So remove the power wire that goes to the DDB and put the red probe on the positive battery terminal and the black lead on the power wire? Make sure I'm using the 10A connection..

Sounds like a good idea, but I didn't really understand where I put the probes to measure.. I first disconnect the negative terminal. Then disconnect the positive terminal and put the DMM inline between the power wire (to distribution block) and positive terminal, and then reconnect the negative terminal to measure?

I did: " Hey just installed the "KonFUSED 2 Way Digital Distribution System". Item #: KNF-22D Is it supposed to stay on when the car is turned off. It seems to not turn off by itself. I assume the battery drain is very low. Is this normal? " " It should turn off, it has an auto current sensing circuit, so if any other device is on it might be keeping the display on too. The draw is extremely small. Bill " Approx. how long does your DDB take to turn off?

I don't think this thing is going to turn off. It's sitting @ 12.7v if it makes any difference. No other devices are on in the car.

Ah, cool man, thanks for the info. I checked the car after 10 minutes, and it was still on. I'll check again in another 15-20.

Yeah, I know but.. From what I heard. It's supposed to have an auto current sensing circuit. I have it connected to two amplifiers which are all grounded, including the block on trunk sheet metal..

Hey guys. I just finished my system and I used a digital distribution block. This one: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KNF-22D It stays on (Displays voltage), even when the car is off. I thought it would have had an automatic shut off, but I guess since it's directly connected to the battery it stays on? Can anyone confirm. Just seems weird..

Hey all. I have a 12" Fi BL wired like this: My question is that I bought 8AWG to wire the thing, problem is, the terminals only accept about 12AWG. So I trimmed about 1/2 or more the wires at the stripped ends, making it 16AWG, and I used 12AWG to wire the + --> + and - --> - and cut the ends the same way.. Should I be concerned, or what would have been a better option? Those damn holes are so small. =[ PS: twisted speaker wire is a PITA to strip.

Yeah, I just thought there would have been a cleaner way to do it. Especially for the twisted speaker wire. I'll give it a go then.

How would I go about stripping the larger speaker wire covers (8AWG) which is about the same diameter as 0AWG. Also, what do I use to strip 0 and 4AWG power wire to prepare it for a crimp-on connector.

Oh OK, I see what you mean, I didn't realize that the outer clear coating was separate. I'm gonna have to pick up some tools now.

Hey, I just bought a whole bunch of twisted speaker wire for my install. 8-16AWG http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.c...Speaker%20Kable I have no idea how I splice it to be able to attach female disconnects or screw the individual wire into adapters.

I got mine in 8 days from the date the second one shipped via. UPS to Ontario, Canada Thanks guys! Awesome product.

Aren't you supposed to match inline fuse size with the total amount of your fuses, or go one step up. ie. amp1(60A) + amp2(140) = 200A. So 200A inline fuse is needed. or.. amp1(80A) + amp2(150A) = 230A. So get a 250A inline fuse.