jdawg90

Well i got a brand new zx1500.1 for 350. Birthsheet says 1755

my bad i meant lanzar opti 2000d Anyways, im going to look at a zx1500.1 that is new on craigslist tomorrow... its 365obo and i think ill offer 320.

I'm sorry to say, but if your lights aren't dimming on a stock alt on a pt cruiser (which I would assume is less than 100 amps), even with a second battery, you aren't getting anywhere near 6000 watts out of those amps. If you were getting a true 6000 watts your lights should more or less shut off completely when the bass hit. I'd get a 2000 watt @ 2 ohm amp. No need to run it at .5 ohms. That'll just hurt your electrical system even more. any suggestions for 2000@2 other than the kx/zx 2500?

ive got a kenwood kac-9102d which is 850rms at 2 ohms... you can have it for 120 shipped

I have a dual 1 ohm BL (.75dcr) with no options and need a amp for it. I will do the big 3 and have the stock 130a alternator and battery so it needs to be fairly efficienct. I may add a battery or two in the future but not immediately. Right now im looking at a sundown 1500 (run at .375 ohms), gp3000d (rated 1500@2), crossfire vr2000d (.5 ohm stable, 2000 watts), and zx1500.1 If i did the crossfire i could add another battery right away because of the price. I like the sundown just because its sexy and can tolerate low voltage, i like the gp3000d because it can do 3000@1 if i ever decide to upgrade (though i havent found out how efficient it is), the crossfire is just cheap, and the zx1500.1 is supposed to be really efficient.... i cant decide What would you pick and why?

Ok i think i got it figured out. First of all i have some fluke MM with 2 settings... one is voltage not sure hwat the other is. I guess it autoselects whatever it is. When the volunme is 39 or below it reads 2.3 something... the ac volt thing isnt there its a )))))... not sure what that is... resistance? When i turn it to 40 it reads ----- like its trying to decide and beeps a lot and above 40 it gives me a ac voltage reading. With sla at +4 and it 62/62 i get 3.8v which is about right since its 4v preouts. At 53/62 with sla +0 i get .990v ac and with it 45/62 sla +4 i get .990 v ac. I set the gain so its 45/62 with sla +4 and the gain is dead in the center at "nom." Dont think im gonna get any clipping out of my deck do u? I know pioneers clip at close to full volume and this is 53/62 with the sla off. Does everything sound good?

hpf for speakers is 100, lpf for midbass is 300, lpf for sub is 70 and ssf is 25. The head unit resetted when i changed them out. And I have 2 sets of rca's and i get the same reading at the back of the deck as on the end of the rca... What i did notice is when i change the sla from +4 to 0 the voltage output on the amp nearly drops in half but the rca voltage does not change... the rca voltage doesnt change as i change the volume either

I have a deh-p590 ib with 4v preouts which are actually 2.2-2.3v. My gain was originally around 1/3rd on my sub amp set with a dmm at 3/4 volume with a 50hz 0db test tone. I hit the power cable on my amp and fried it. I replaced the amp with the same one and had to turn the gain to 2/3rds (around .75v mark on the amp) to get the same output voltage. I figured i screwed up my head unit, but didnt really think twice about it. Last fall i bought a pdx 4.100 and four new speakers... with the gain all the way up i could not get the correct output voltage using a test tone and dmm. I turned the sla to +4 and the gain settled around 3/4 up (just past .5v mark on amp). I just put in a new head unit (same model) and the gains stayed where they were... too high. I am really stumped on what to do... i have 2.2v at the rca's but the gain is past the 1v mark on my amps... Also, the rca voltage does not change as i change the volume... i thought teh rca voltage was dynamic?? Could a bad power or ground connection on the head unit cause this? Im thinking about getting a line driver but that seems more like a band aid than a fix... Id really appreciate some advice. thanks

Well the ipod loudness was all the way up... with it set at normal with the gain all the way up i couldnt even get correct voltage. Before with it on +0, gain was under half, now with it at +4, the gain is 2/3rds

i tested the voltage everywhere.... it was always 2.3 volts until i got to around 50/62 where it dropped to 2.0 Im guessing it was clipping.

just got a used one off ebay without a faceplate for 49 shipped

Okay about 6 months ago i hit the power cable on my amp and it fried the amp... i had to turn the gain way up to get the same output voltage. Anyways i didnt think much of it but i just spent 610 on a new sub and amp and do not want to mess anything up. Last week i checked the preout voltage and it was at 2.3v... its suppose to be 4. (deh-p590ib) Should i replace it. Do you think theres anyway it will cause amp clipping or distortion to ruin my speakers/amps/subs. I have used my system atleast 30 min a day for the past 6 months like this without any damage and there is no noticeable distortion, but i really dont want any of my new stuff to **** up a year from now thanks

Well i bought a hk4000d and have heard they are current hogs... im going to be running it at 2 ohms to a 18" BL... probably around 1600 watts (or whatever is safe to run to a BL). I have a stock 130A alternator, and a run of 1/0 to my amp... ill be doing the big 3 soon. What type of electrical upgrades do i need? Would this battery http://www.remybattery.com/Products/Deka-I...9A31__9A31.aspx paired be enough? What about two? A HO alternator is out of the question because apparantly toyota used some special design for my truck (06 tundra) and the cheapest ive found is a 175A for 600