clanderson

Thanks folks! Huge help, much appreciated!

Yes sir! Would you have an opinion on aluminum vs copper? Think it's worth the double price?

http://toolmakermetalworkz.com/viewitem.php?productid=19 http://teamprojectdb.com/index.php/store/reducers/product/1-1-0-4-gauge-offset-reducers-pair

Are you talking about the stingers I've got installed? They are kind of a D shape, with the flat end facing towards the set screw. Unfortunately, rotating them wouldn't offset them any I was thinking sound quest. Can you grind some off of each one and give yourself some space between them? Oooh I see. I actually had to trim quite a bit off of the Stinger "4awg" to fit into my DA 1200.1 amp - it was a huge pain! Thinking of just grabbing some of those angled reducers... Do you think the copper would be worth the more than double price of the aluminum version?

Are you talking about the Stinger reducers I've got installed? They are kind of a D shape, with the flat end facing towards the set screw. Unfortunately, rotating them wouldn't offset them any Thought of that initially, but determined that'd be a whole lot of messy, trimmed wire. Using SHCA wire which is pretty thick for 1/0. Had to trim enough to get it to fit into the Stinger 1/0 reducers haha

Could zip tie them together to reduce vibration a bit, in the sense of them rubbing against each other. Mmm angled reducers you say? Sounds amazing, I'll look into that! And initially, I was actually worried about them arching together through the rubber jackets, being so close to each other. I'm guessing ProjectDB's reducers are aluminum like the ToolMakers, but would it be worth it to get the copper version on the Toolmakers?

Hey guys, I've got 0 gauge wire running the length of my vehicle, but my amp accepts up to 4. I slapped on some reducers and realized they were too close for comfort, so I heat shrink tubed each post. Although they're on there very solidly, they're still sketching me out a bit. What do you guys think? Should I go for some distribution blocks or something instead? Been a pain in the rear. Running ~1500w Pics:

Even though I ordered it on the 10th, Nick took care of it like a boss, thanks everybody!

Not receiving any confirmations that I've emailed sales like I usually do, so just in case, the order number is 2356

It's actually a 15 :\ but hopefully Nick can take care of it. Thank you for responding Nick, and also ricksi for continuing to help!

I've e-mailed Fi, hoping to get a response soon. Hoping it would be possible to maybe swap out voice coils or something. Just really want this hiccup fixed

Edit

Why am I more worried than I should be? I've been planing this for months, taking measurements, tearing my car apart, saving and budgeting my money, things began falling into place so well, and then I go and order the wrong VC config! And that 600 is, well, literally half of what my original power was going to be... This is my first system I've done on my own, and this is insanely discouraging... I've got to go to work now, get off at 9:30. Really really hope somebody over at Fi sees this and is able to do something... Thanks for the responses ricksi, I'm pretty bummed but I really appreciate it.

Ordered the cooling option on the SSD as well, so I could utilize the 1200w instead of the SSD's rated 1000w. Man this is just a mess!! I really, really hope something can be done to get the proper sub...

Bought the amp for 150, there's no way I could get another suitable amp for that price :\

I appreciate the suggestion but I've gone through so much planning and building to make this happen, and to run the sub at almost half capacity would be devastating! And if I wire it to 4 ohms, I'll get much lower power than 600 RMS. And with my vehicle, there's no way I could add a second sub. This has really thrown everything off track...

Diamond Audio D5 1200.1 I feel like a steaming pile right now

So I ordered a Dual 1 ohm Fi SSD on July 10th, but I actually need a Dual 2 ohm - Is it possible to change the order at this late date? Is there anything I can do? Really wish Fi had a phone number so I could contact them immediately! Feels like I just threw $300 down the drain, I can't believe it! Please help!

And to wire to a 2 ohm stable amp, I need a 1 ohm sub, correct?

Someone over at Fi and some others have been saying I should take the SSD over the BL @ 1200w.. what's up with that?

Yes sir! I've got a quote from DC Creations for a box fitted for an SSD, but now I think I'm going to go for one fitted for a BL. Do you have any suggestions regarding the box? Or regarding the box manufacturer? I was hoping to get forward facing sub and forward facing port, but am definitely open to the best practice there. Again, i've got a trunk size of 17"H, 32"W and 24"D available.

Ok, thanks! And for a 1ohm stable amp.. Should I get the dual 1?

Really? A BL over the SSD/Q? Why do you say that? And would a BL/Q sound better than an SSD @ 1200w? That's not too underpowered is it?

Would there be any difference between the two at 1200w? Any improvement with the Q at all, that is?

Hahaha sorry! Trying to learn as I go. I've got a 2002 Dodge Stratus - stock electrical (upgrading to big 3). Ordering a custom box that would fit whatever sub I'd get, and I have room for box dimensions up to 17"H, 32"W and 24"D. I'd like great SPL but don't want the SQ to be overlooked. A nice balance between the two, I suppose. And this would be a single 15" SSD or Q. Again, running with a 1200w Diamond amp