fritosaregood

it seems like it should. Do you not have space to invert the sub, and have the magnet on the outside of the box?

It was 1W@1m. i wasnt gonna get them for a system, but just put 4 of them in my car at take it to comps.. but there are around 130 for 4 of them.. It doesnt seem like they will actually put out what they say. there 8" is 98db, 10" is 98db, 12 is 98db, 15 is 96db and 18 is 94db. all with 60oz magnets. doesnt show excursion,

where its 13.5 x 7 x 12. is 12 across? it look like that but you 3 ports but wood. with would make 13.5. but you also have 13.5 up. its just hard to tell since there are dimension lines. But I invert my subs when the depth is an issue. and i start my lines at the point farthest from the opening, including where the woofer is since that really should be part of the line.

You can get G E at walmart, that makes them no good.

it looks like you didnt account for the width of the wood for where the woofer sets.

another question. I didnt read anything about size difference, but for the ebay sub I saw: THere is a 12 with a 98 sensitivity and a 15 with a 96. only 50 rms difference. Does that mean the 12 would be louder (on the meter).

That was a good read. btw i have home audio speakers in my rear deck and doors. and when ppl here how loud and good my car sound, then i tell them they cost me 12 bucks each. their jaws drop cuz they went to a shop and paid 200+ for a pair of speakers. I did use a dayton hf driver in my car for a while too, but im back to my audiopulse now

I read on a thread on here that a sub with say 90 sensitivity rated 500rms would be louder (on the meter atleast) than a sub with a 85 sensitivity rated 1000 rms. are there other factor involved in this besides sensitivity. like excursion, that would affect which one is louder. I ask because I was wonderin around on ebay and saw a sub called a AA Bass15 (I'm sure its not the same AA that some ppl on here use) and it has a sensitivity of 96 db rated 450/900. Thinking about the whole double power gains 3 db rule, mathematically it seems like this would be better than my audiopulse axis with 87db sensitivity rated 2500rms, but it does mid to high 40's. would that little ebay sub do better, or are that many other factors? sub factors, not things like box type

First you need to tell us what you want out of a new light bulb. Are you looking for a Brighter light. or just a good light that will last forever.?

Will windows up or down change the peak frequency. I was at a comp and it peaked at 41 hz, with the windows up. and got a 144.1, later I did a run with the windows down and did 5 hz steps to see what it metered at. and at 25 hz it got 140.1 and i think it was a 142.somethin at 40~41 hz. I dont think it does a 140.1 at 25 hz with the windows up, but i havent tested it like that yet. Is it normal to gain db with windows down on low low notes (20-30ish), but gain db with windows up on higher low notes(40-55)?

yea. its those little $12 goldwoods from PE. I've been lookin at doin an enclosure thats a box inside a box and the port would be the space inbetween. then ones i started gettin into Tline boxes i thought this design would be easier to build and take ut less space to go into the corner of a room. this box turned out alot better than i expected. what i want to do now is build it for some 15s and throw it in a van or somethin big. but next up is 4 E8's

most cuts only left 1/16 inch of wood, but then about 5 cuts on one end went up to 1/8 inch, I don't know what happened there, but it being thicker at the end definately made it harder to bend

It would reduce turbulence... would there really be any, if there was it would be easier to just pour resin down the inside. since bein almost 4ft long it would be hard to fiberglass. I doubt there would be much, but resin on the sides wouldn't hurt. I don't think that would help too awful much unless he fiberglassed it. BTW fritosaregood are you 'Tony B'? yea thats me and if its just to smooth out the inner surface resin would do that. I think

It would reduce turbulence... would there really be any, if there was it would be easier to just pour resin down the inside. since bein almost 4ft long it would be hard to fiberglass.

thanks. Im not fiberglassin this one. but im debatin on fiberglassing the outside of the actual enclosure I'll build, but i really dont think it needs it.

Im goin to be makin a tube inside a tube about 4ft long.

Im about to start building a tube out of MDF for a sub box, but before I needed to test things out to see if I could. I also decided to take pics of it for a little tutorial if other people are wondering how to do this. I started of by finding the inner diameter I need. Im going to use this for an 8" sub with a 7" cut out. so my inner diameter is 7" Now outer diameter: I'm using 3/4 MDF so my outer diameter is 1.5 + the inner diameter' 7+ 1.5=8.5" Now I can find out how long I need to cut my board: take the outer diameter multiply times pi to get the circumference, which will equal the board length: 8.5 * 3.14 = 26.7" Board length is 26.7" Now I need the inner circumference: 7 * 3.14 = 21.98 or 22" Now I can find how much wood I need to remove in order to bend the wood completely around. outer circumference - inner circuference: 26.7 - 22 = 4.7" Now I have to remove that much wood distance with a 1/8 inch table saw blade. So I need to know how many cuts that will take. so I divide my distance needed to be removed by my table saw's blade width: 4.7 / (1/8) = 37.6 = 38 cuts Now I have to spread these cuts out evenly across the board. I need to find the distance between the cuts by dividing the original board length the number of cuts: 26.7" / 38 cuts = 0.7" apart. To make it easier to cut evenly down the board i cut alot of pieces of wood 0.7" wide Pic time Board 26.7" long all my pieces 0.7" wide before cuttin I needed some prevention for MDF boogers set the table saw blade where it almost goes through the wood lining up all my little pieces to make the cuts even Leave a small gap to start with so the first cut isnt right at the end of the wood First cut showing how deep it goes half the cuts down it Bends all of the cuts done I used wood glue to fill in the gaps it took alot. but most of it with squeeze out Now bend it together, I couldnt take any pics of this process because I was by myself it was kinda hard to do this part. I just used a rope, but an easier way would be tie down straps for a trailer. That way you can rachet it down easily, because the last inch of completing the circle was tough. but here it is checkin the dimensions. inner diameter outer diameter I let it set for a day to cure took the rope off, and it stayed together...yes!! Final Product Thanks for watching, hope this helps some of you guys. If anyone can add anythin I may have missed feel free.

I like using bolts.

thanks for the site. I think I read about using a 2 to 1 pr to woofer ratio on another site too, but i only have one blown sub for now. and i figure it needs a recone anyway so I can really do anymore damage to it now.

there are some on here: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i48_car...---grilles.html It has some for the JL w7s and they have pretty high excursion. but even if the some of the grills dont have enough clearance. you could make a ring out of 3/4"mdf to go around the subwoofer and put the grill on that. It'll add 3/4" of clearance

this box is back on the table. but with a twist. Ive decided to get a replacement basket assembly, but audiopulse has horrible customer support, cant get in touch over the phone and no response from email. So it may take a while for that. But Im goin to use the old basket assembly and convert it to a passive radiator. with a variable weight somehow(ive got a few ideas). But I do have a question. I was reading up on tuning PR boxes, and it says the cone mass/weight should be the same as the equivalent weight of air that would fill the port length of that frequency. So this imaginary port, is its port area the same as the area of the woofer cone?. Im thinking it is but would like to make sure.

finishing up I would say this box is better than the first. i can stand outside my house with this thing on, and it still sounds like the sound is all around you. and all from 4 7in woofers. next up, one of these boxes with 4 sundown E8s, maybe the other box version too

here is the second box it this comparison project. inside. middle. outer.

just my room for now, its really just a test box to see how well the design works. I did throw it in my car for a day though. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxg3SP9RWaY

yea, except my port area is about 20% what it should be, but that box is the best box I have build for very low frequencies