fritosaregood

wat was the complete setup that did those numbers?

If you just tuning to 40hz do a regular ported, 6 orders are usually to tune each ported section to different frequecies

ok, thats pretty easy then

thats what i was thinkin, but why would you need an processor if you amp can control everything?

Active vs. passive refers to the crossovers. In a passive the cross over will occur after the amplification. Active occurs before amplification. When you go active it allows you to changes your crossovers points and slopes. You will need a processor, active capable headunit, or active capable amplifier to run active. Passive would be like what you see in a component set. (with the crossover block). So it depends on your processing you plan on doing to decide if you go active or not. What makes the h/u active capable? pre outs for front rear and sub channels? What about the amp?

I'm goin to redo my front stage and I was going to use either the front channels for highs and midrange with a crossover after the amplifier, and the rear channels for 8" midbass. or the front channels with a 3 way crossover for highs midrange and midbass. What makes 3-way passive not for cars? less control?

difference between passive and active?

hah i like it.

Using different speakers for highs is easier. they are not in the same enclosures and are ususally crossedover at different frequencies. As for spl numbers you can get higher numbers from addin more of different types of woofers. more cone area usually leads to higher numbers, but the box used wont be perfect for each woofer. and electrically it will work. also if one woofer has more force that the other it could probably damage the less powerfull woofer, if its a common chamber

this sentence is the first quote for my signature..hah

Oh. i added that in an edit to my orginal post about in not being reccomended to mix different subwoofers, but i was more goin into the electronics part proving each woofer would stiff recieve equal power and not fry the amp

Voltage remains the same to each sub, but acts different on each coil. each sub gets Y amount of volts. the Q's 1 ohm coils each receive Y/2 volts and the crx's 4 ohm coils each see Y volts so Watts = volts * amps Q: one 1 ohm coil sees Y/2 volts * X amps = (X*Y)/2 watts CRX: one 4 ohm coil sees Y volts * X/2 amps = (X*Y)/2 watts but now thinkin how does Power (Watts) divide in parallel vs series?

i drew up a little circuit to look at this set up, and both subs should/would see the same current, if i remember my circuits class right. but each coil would see different current. one 1 ohm coil will recieve X amount of amps, the second 1 ohm coil will recieve X amount of amps, one 4 ohm coil will recieve X/2 amount of amps, and the second coil will recieve X/2 amout of amps. When wiring the Q in series and the crx in parallel, the Q will see X amps and the crx will see X amps X is the same through the whole explination. edit: its still not reccomended to have two different type of subs in at the same time for sound quality reasons. Just stick with one sub till you get the second Q

funny vid stumbo, now instead of wastin your time with funny vids how about messaging dwright back about his purchase.

wow, 17 pages on this guy? damn. I have met him in person and seems ok. I couldn't tell you business wise if he's allright. He tells everyone that RobotUnderground is funded by a church or something and is not for profit, which beggs the question, how does he pay his bills by doing this full time?!? Doesn't add up to me yea, he told me it was all volunteer work

I thought phase was like reversing the polarity of the driver or atleast thats wat 180 is

I looked to him for a top assembly for my audiopulse axis. he told me he could recone it to match my new one, but then told me it was one of the soundsplinter tops. not like the axis except the basket design i think..so i passed

same here has to be a multiple of 5 me too. Multiples of 5 from 25 - 45. then i creep up by 1's

maybe subs are wired out of phase. check the your wiring configuration on the subs.

i have a 1608 that worked great for me when i used it.

What kind of batteries are those?

noob question time.... im never hearing wat exactly active is. Im about to change my front doors to have a tweeter and 8in midrange with an external crossover(front L&R channels), and an 8 in each rear door for midbass(rear L&R channels). Is that "going active"?

all u would need is a dustcap..but keep in mind that the added weight would change the tuning hmm how he get the mass of thhe cone??in that case maybe a decal I got lucky on gettin the mass right for this box. I started lookin around to find a scale to measure in grams.(this lead the ppl at lowes to think i was a drug dealer or somethin), then got a long bolt i was gonna use to add weight, and add washers to the bolt to get the exact mass i needed. I was goin to cut a few 3" mdf circles to attach in the voice coil and put the bolt through that. Once i started to tune the box in winisd i wanted to get it at 30hz as reccomended, and i started figuring the volume of the port and mass of air in the port and came up with about 380something grams for the mass i would need. And me being so lucky and all, the cone mass was already 390grams. So i didnt have to do anything but attach the original top assembly to the box, it tuned it to 29.5something, close enough for me.

i may build a regular ported box for it eventually, but with a passiver radiator there is no port noise and no extra volume to add a port. so id say the PR is already the winner edit: i should be takin this to a comp on may 30. im goin to test it at 800 watts at 4 ohms on the sundown.. then burp then with 3000watts at 1 ohm. I saw the vid on youtube of jacob playin with them in a wall socket and they lasted forever with about 700watts to each one.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...hp?showforum=68 look in the pinned section for wat all the options do