George

well a recone runs roughly 100 bucks depending on some factors. and since your in hawaii you will pay quite a bit for shipping as well. still would be cheaper to do a recone, than buying a whole new woofer. it might be better off buying a new woofer anyways though since the 10" BTL is not designed for daily AT ALL, and you will most likely experience more problems with it down the road.

13 cubes with 168^2 of port and a 35hz tuning will mean a 17.61" length port 13 cubes with 168^2 of port and a 35hz tuning will mean a 23.61" length port personally i would go with a 35hz tuning and see how much extra space you can give them by sacrificing a little port length. theyll still get PLENTY low at a 35hz tuning. your better off trying get low end with enclosure volume and sacrificing a little port length than vice versa. also you can try to use aero ports. they will let you use roughly 50% of the required port area, give your subs quite a bit more volume. try to see if you can give each sub 6.5+ cubes after displacment each. like i said it will be a lot easier to use the aeroports to regain some volume.

my buddy is running 2 18" bl's off ~3k in 6 cubes each tuned to 32hz. i had the same setup in my explorer except each sub had 5.5 cubes tuned to 33hz. my single 15" BTL in 4.5 cubes at 33hz, off of 3k has more low end than either of them. i would REALLY try to get as much space in there as you can if your trying to get any low end out of them. i would of stuck to the 15's. i made the mistake of buying a pair of 18's trying to squeeze them in a box to small and was unhappy with them.

not sure if you guys are just extremely busy and not being able to get to the emails but i would like to purchase 4 replacement btl leads for a 15" btl. i sent 2 emails titles "ATTN SCOTT HELP ASAP" like you told the other guys to do that wanted to buy some btl leads. it has all my info in there, including address, sub model and options on it, my email adress, and my phone number, as well as what im inquiring about, which is the btl leads. just not sure if you guys recieved it. thanks George

well the link that was posted above seems to be even supported by Scott. gonna try it as it doesnt just fix the break but actually replaces the entire tinsel. gonna do all 4 tinsels

sweet! i really appreciate it man! but yea, defiantly will need new leads, i can easilty see it not being long enough right now when i push the cone up to simulate it playing. George

the thread is much more developed here http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=265327 but i will post here anyways, since i would like to get an idea of what some new tinsel will cost me so i can try to do a repair. so my btl stopped working today when i was listening to it on volume 35/70 on the highway. i thought maybe my wires came loose. get home, pull out the woofer and this is what i see at first glance i thought i clipped it. i take a look at the coil...its fine. never smelled anything either and everything is in the same condition as when i recieved the sub. and the other tinsels dont look burned to me at all. i am the third owner of the sub. it does look a bit burned but the coil looks perfect so who knows. upon closer inspection it looks like that single tinsel was a good bit shorter than the other 3 which seem to have enough play to move freely. this leads me to believe that the tinsel slap issue i thought i was having was that tinsel being tugged on. the sub does not bottom out in the enclosure, and i have my subsonic filter set. it was in a box that was roughly 4.3 or so cubes at 31-32 hz (after recalculating and seeing an error i made in the original calculation. and was being run off a kx2500 pretty conservativly. well, ill talk to FI and see if there is a way to fix this issue without having to do a complete recone. RIP BTL, after like only 1 week of owning the sub (well its seen 4kw from the first owner and 1.7kw from the last owner so it got some use lol but it went out as soon as it hit me )

dont worry about the btls. they do not sound as bad as people will have you believe. i just added one to my list of subs ive owned (1st and 2nd gen mag, RE sx's, alpine type r, RE xxx) and its running off a kx2500 in 4.5^3ft @ 33hz. it sounds fine for a lot of my music, and really isnt any where near as peaky as i expected it to be. its a 15" fully loaded model. my friend likes the sound of my BTL over the sound of his bl's... only issue i have found is tinsel slap (at the highest excursion levels), due to the pucking enormous tinsel leads.

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.p...reen+alternator results are on the first page i think on post 8. thats with my old 20.1 which has been benched to put out 2400+ @ 1 ohm. have not checked it with the kicker amp running. its a very solid alternator though so far (4 months).

thanks, i appreciate it!

This is my post from ca.com. i posted this over there and completely forgot to show love to the FI forum here . here it is though.

any update on this? anyone got a recone for their 3hp and have it work? would REALLY love to know

im assuming to take advantage of the BL incentive i just order one with the flatwind and you guys do the rest? or am i suppose to add both options and your going to edit the website to show the savings in the checkout cart?

ok good enough for me. i really appreciate you guys going out and giving help with your products. good chit man!

well thats the description. now i know sometimes it varies with driver size (as seen on the spider example in the quote). how likely is the tinsel slap to occur with the 15" driver off about 1450W rms? is it a guaranteed effect? i bought the driver and by the time i got in contact with the original owner (who sold it to the guy i bought it from, and didnt know about the extreme leads) on what the options were on the sub, it was too late, and THEN i was told it had the extreme leads. basically just wondering if there is a way to minimize this. you guys are a big help, i apprecaite it!

i came up on a deal. both subs are 15" BL's, both have cooling, flatwind, and the daily option. 1 however has extreme leads, and the other has regular leads. will this cause problems between the drivers or is it ok to run them together? i know the extremem leads can cause slapping, but is that the only downfall?

assuming both are in 8^3 ft @ 32 hz with 3kw to split between them @ 2 ohms with equal installs. which ones would be louder? my main concern is, do these subwoofers basically take power the same way and just 1 gears it more towards an SQ aspect and the other a SPL aspect. or is basically just the power applied that will determine which is louder? i mean both are rated @ 1kw and the only thing that seperates them are the power options that apply to the thermal side of power handling. but mechanically, as far as power handling goes, are they the same? same stiffness spiders etc? i have been told by one guy that his 2 15" q's were louder off 1.2kw of power than his bl 15's that were a direct swap with the same amount of power.

depends probably. i have no experience with BTL's yet but considering you will get a good box rise anyways, i would get about a 4k amp on one. after rise it will probably be in the range of 2.5-3k which seems to be a good ammount. i mean i see a lot of people just ecstatic with the sub using a 2.5kw rms amp. so after rise they are seeing a lot less than that and are still stoked.

whats powering the BTL now?

you guys are awesome. thanks nick and devildriver

question in title. wondering if there is any way to VISUALLY tell if a BTL has the daily versus the spl option. got a sub im looking to buy...but the dude doesnt know if the sub is daily or spl (he bought it from a guy named "beau" who goes by the name "astrolade" on caraudio.com) and i have no way of getting in contact with him.

ahhh ok. so the flatwound coil IS a necessity to fit in the d1 gap. might have to rethink what im going to do. thanks

he said $95 for the flatwind setup. i dont have the flatwind setup. then he said he has one that will fit regardless of the gap, but didnt state a price for that one. not sure im fully grasping what needs to be done. are you saying i need to get the flatwind one to make it fit in a d1 gap? i understood his post as 1) " recones with the flatwind coil are $95. im assuming you have one so im giving you this quote" and 2) "however, i have one without the flatwind option that will work with your current setup" but no price. since the flatwind option adds $20, im assuming a non flatwind recone will be $95 - 20 = $75 ?

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bump bump crackaz!