christobear

thats for ported though i think, are there specs for sealed? or is that not recommended?

anybody know the specs for sealed/ported box for an AQ SD2.515? (15") i cant seem to find it on their website... thanks

i feel like if you are looking for output, and you do any set of 4 18"+ subs that are designed for output, you really cant go wrong. but thats just me, the guy who is satisfied by 2 type r 12's...

Anyhow, I'm VERY familiar with the H2 woofers (I build boxes for them all the time--it's the best woofer that the local shop sells) have you seen very many problems with tinsel slap or anything else that could be making a popping noise? i really dont think i have been over-exerting the sub, especially it started immediately after i took it out of the box to wrap the box in vinyl. put it back in on the same amp and everything, then all of a sudden, loud nasty noise

then why do we all follow the 12-16 in^2 per cube rule? the spec sheet from Orion says that the given volume includes all displacements. its kinda screwy

or could you possible throw together a quick design for me? that would be killer

cool thank you you know if there are any programs like winsid compatible with mac?

working with an Orion H2, 29mm Xmax the manufacturers suggestions say a 1.25 cube box, 12.5 sq inches of port at 15.8 inches long. according to the 12volt.com calculator, that puts the box at like 38 hz, but Orion says its tuned to 31 it really lacks in the lows, it can barely even hit the low note in "Put On" by Jeezy

is there any disadvantage to having an extremely large port? lets say 20+ inches per cube?

Youngbloodz, U Ain't Know that note shakes the crap out of my car, its a higher tone, but powerful, haha anybody know the pitch of that tone, or where i can look it up?

the way it was explained to me is that for 2 ports, you tune each port to half the box. so if you have say a 10 cube box, you would tune each port to 5 cubes at whatever Hz from JL "Divide the chamber volume by the number of ports you wish to use for that one chamber. • Take the quotient and use that as your Vb (box volume) in the port formula • Do the number crunching and figure out how long each port should be."

i would recommend against it only cause i got a tom tom last week, used it to drive around dallas for a day, left it in my car in >30 degrees and now it doesnt work...but i don't know if it was the cold, or if i got a lemon or what

this is how i have always had it explained to me, the idea that the speaker "doesn't care" what quality of sound it is producing. yet, i have heard many say that they can "blow" a 1000 watt speaker with only 100 watts....does this claim have anything to do with a clipped signal or are there other factors involved?

ah, well. ill be waiting for someone to chime in too

12-16 sq inches of port per net cube is the rule i believe.....so you need 72-96 inches. 4 4" ports will give you ~50 i think you're gonna ned more like 6 of those

agreed, 2 12's on 1000 > 1 12 on 1000, unless your box is really crappy.....but then you should be building a new box, not getting new subs.

ah, thank you

ok, so if ports A and B are each tuned to 33 hz, and have a total of 112 sq inches, will the box actually be tuned to 33 hz?

my box is going to be 7 cubes after displacemets. box is 20 inces deep (so one port side can be 18.5") 112 inches of port area, 33hz my question is, can i do two ports, each 18.5"x3" at 12" long for ~33hz would that yield a net port area of 112 and keep the 33 hz tuning? if not, how do i go about calculating this? im going to try to do a drawing real quick to help you see what im doing

forget Hifonics, get a quality amp if you are going to upgrade

why not do BTL's if you are giving 2000 per driver?

you get any port noise with that? by my calc you only have ~8 sq inches per cube...?

that volcano explosion stuff is freakin crazy, hearing an echo around the earth for months?!?!? that would be trippy

....so is it before or after displacement? or did i miss the answer?

9 including displacements?