Mynameismcgyver

I owned CDT aswell and to be honest my PG definitely seemed alot better. BUT, my issue with CDT is that is so many damn models...God knows what I had lol.. thanks for the input.

I mean ill spend the money on a new GOOD set. I like these RSD and on my Alpine digi amp its been really good clean power. And yes the tweets definitely let you know when they got dirty. They have lasted a year so im decently happy. I was thinking these Polk Momo Comps.... http://www.woofersetc.com/p2571/MM6--Polk-Audio-65"-Momo-Competition-Component-Set.htm or these.. http://www.woofersetc.com/p7105/MM6501--Polk-Audio-65"-Component-Speaker-System.htm What do you guys think? Appreciate the help and after seeing the difference one crappy tweeter, I am a big believer of having GOOD quality stuff in the frontstage.

Alright. I understand. Well, what are my options as far as upgrading then. A; buy a complete new set. B; new Cross Os and tweeters. Suggestions please?

What could be the problem of using the existing cross o's with just new and better tweeter?? Thanks man.

Posted this on Ca.com but wasn't getting to much helpful attention My right tweeter made an early exit. I replaced it with an Ifinity Reference I had laying around. Needless to say, the whole fronstage stinks. Looking to replace the tweeters with somewhat of an upgrade (if possible). Id say $50-$60 max would be the highest id like to spend on a pair of tweets that would pair well with the existing speakers. Someone mentioned the Blaupunkt Vc100's but I cannot find them anywhere. Thanks for the help

RECONE! I had the same thing happen (smaller tears) to my BL that was about a year old. I believe that going below my tuning and over extending my sub was the cause. I noticed significant output loss after I heard it bottom out. Once I removed the sub and saw the tears I put two and two together.

He is knowledgeable but he doesn't have to be a dick about it. I am going to be doing 5 subs. A ten pound difference in this setup is a big difference for all you "know it all's". Suspension in this car is now insufficient for this build. Thanks for all that help and no thanks for the dopes that have big mouths.

The weight has NOTHING to do with the design of a box, nothing. Are you my mom? For what im planning I need to know. Dope.

I am running 2,000+ on my BL. Ran daily for about a year no problem. I did run into a problem with the suspension tearing but I think it was due to the fact that I went below tuning on my box and over extended the sub...Several times. Was time for something new anyway.

I need to find out asap so I can calculate and design the box. Pretty important in this potential design. I remember reading that the new BL was upwards of 10pds heavier but I cannot confirm this at all. Got the weight for the AQ.

The previous BL weight was about 34pds IIRC... How much weight are they up to now with the new driver for the 15inch?

For box purposes, I am looking to get an idea of the weight of the 15 inch HDC3 and the 2009BL. I know my old BL was around 34 pounds but I know the new ones are heavier. Any info would help. Thanks

Good point but I have a very good sense of feel. I race cars and gokarts professionally and we tend to have "spidey like senses". And I def agree that it went thru small changes in the first few days. I shall check the coils, didn't think of that. The 2009 version sounds tasty especially if it turns out to be a nice upgrade from the old model. Thanks guy.

I have a 2008 bl 15 w cooling and flatwind option on a us amps 2000x (2000w easily). Have had this setup for bout 9 months now running with no issues but it seems as of late that it just doesn't seem to be as accurate as it used to be. Also feels like I'm missing some punch. Being that I've been throwing a lot of power to it, possible that the soft parts properties changing from all the movement?

Good info. Thanks

I have a BL 15 D2 running at 2000W (bridged) 4ohm on my US 2000x currently. Would hooking up each coil to each channel yielding 1000W at 2ohm to each coil make any difference? I would say no because 4ohm is more efficient? Thanks

Id disagree on that one. My friend acquired one of those amps and I thought it was performing quite well. For the $ I wouldn't say anything negative on it.

I called alpine and they said this happens when the LOUDNESS setting is ON. When it is off it doesn't change at volume level 22...But in my case it is! Guess I call back alpine and tell them.. Ready to put my damn 9827 back in

I turned the gain up on the amp to keep the setting low on the H/U and that seemed to help alittle...Also put the xovers at +3 and that helped too but still am having this problem.

even better http://cgi.ebay.com/Alpine-Wire-Harness-CD...%3A1|240%3A1318

All I know is that the older model H/U use a white plug which is a PIN style male on the unit. When I just upgraded to the 9884 I had to switch to the BLACK plug which is a flatter style male end. That is all I know. Hopefully it will help.

double post.

Having a small issue with the 9884. The H/U automatically decreases the treble (noticeably) above 25 on the volume setting. Same problem when using the tuner/xm unit to which I have the gain at maximum on the xm or else it's too low. How can I turn this automatic function off? My old Cda-9827 used to crank the volume way higher with NO problem. Now I can only reach 90% of its limits before it starts changing the balance and sounds like chit. Pisssing me off

I second the motion to let them wang. Personally, I run em about 80% then let it cool down. After that, game on! The characteristics minimally change the more time you get on the woofer Either Scott or Nick told me that it may take up to 10 hours of usage before they are "completely broken in".

I can't build a box that fast but I sure as hell can break one quicker. hah Billy, don't make me go out and buy a system for my room. DAMN YOU.