MECHMAN

On one battery you are in the rated range @ 2220, might want a second when you step up the output. As for your alternator, that's not going to keep up.

On your Camry my units will come with adjustable voltage and the 4cyl Camry can support our 270a unit.

If it's actually charging you have a connection issue in the wiring harness or a problem in the circuit. Check the connections at the regulator.

You may be able to pick up the idle by adjusting the TPS sensor, there is a small range of adjustment there. What is your current idle speed? Is it lower than the MFG setting or is it just below the turn-on speed of your alternator?

Look at the quality of the product, the customer service and the availability and you will have your decision. I'm not going to jump in on a DC vs. Mechman pissing match, there's no point, there are so many on every forum with opinions based on nothing but hearsay, and many others who can only speak from their personal experience. Make an informed decision, but pay attention to the details. You know where to find me if you want to go the Mechman route.

If your meter has an amperage function then you don't need a clamp. Emen with the remote wires disconnected oyu could have the amps drawing power, especially if you have amps that have an auto-on feature.

What kind of vehicle? How is it wired? Is it doing this at all engine speeds or just idle?

i can take the pic down, your product wasnt the basis of this thread when it first started, but my opinion got intertwined somewhere along the way. so like i said dont take any offense, most ppl are too lazy to go out and figure things like this out anyway and would rather be able to plug and go about there business. Yeah, I never said anything adjusting throttle blade set screw. Then act like I'm missinforming people, HaHa. Also, I'd like to say, as long as the picture is used for education and discussing purpose, usually isn't a copyright problem, so therefore doesn't need permissions. Maybe somebody need to learn copyright law a little better. Also, it was made clear that it was Mechman's product, not like somebody was using it for their own gain. a Someone mentioned something about an 8mm wrench, you use that to adjust the throttle plate, not the TPS. Maybe I misread, maybe not, but you did mention idle problems? As for adjusting the TPS to control your idle, that may or may not have a good result for you with Ford EECIV or Ford EECV system. Having owned several, raced many and built countless EECIV controlled cars I have a little experience in this. If I misunderstood what you were trying to do here excuse me for trying to help. You mentioned continual idle problems, did you fix them? What kind of problem are you having with your Ford? I can help quite a bit as I spent thousands of hours under the hood of Mustangs building, tuning and racing them. I usually have at least on Ford as a DD, right now it's a Crown Vic PI, but Mustangs are my thing. The picture is of my product and was used in a discussion covering how to adjust voltage. Did I say that it was a copyright issue? This thread was going down the path of dissecting my product and building more for profit. When people start talking about building their own and my product is pictured why don't you talk to your lawyer about how that works. I have said that the design should be your own, not my design, nothing about copyright or even better, PATENT law. The photo isn't copyrighted but have you checked for a patent on the design? The idea of being able to raise charging voltage is good, using resistance in the sense circuit is the way to do it, but not all regulators work the same even in the same model alternator. In that respect I am just trying to keep some of you from having issues by trying to add resistance. Some regulators will have batt voltage going to the sense lead in the plug but will not read from there, they will read from inside the regulator. By adding resistance to the sense lead in that type of unit you will either create a constant fluctuation in the voltage or no adjustment. Some will trigger battery warning lights. On some units they changed the pin they used for sensing. Variables in the Ford 3G/4G/6G alternators are so many that I can't even remember them all. We have a solution for the units that can't be externally adjusted, it's more than a plug-in harness. We also have a protection in our design to prevent catastrophic overcharging. I'm not saying to not add resistors, just be cautious when doing this so you don't create problems in your charging system. But nobody directly said ANYTHING about copying your product exactly. Actually MLA was brought up in the post where the guy said I should start making My own. Unless your product works the same way as the topic of this thread, I doubt he was going to copy your design. Regardless, if you think its nessacercy, I'd like to see a lawsuit stick against the guy that posted your product. But still, this thread wasn't going down any path desecting your product to make profit. So your saying, if I noticed a niche market for a certain product, I can't use another companies product as a inspiration to do my own thing? I think everybody has done that at some point. Just because they don't public state it, doesn't mean they don't. I just think you went off a little early raving about people stealing your product. To the TPS topic, I still never said adjust the throttle blade set screw. I think I actually said that it wasn't that one to make sure nobody would get confused. And yes, I've tried messing with my TPS cause of a hanging idle problem. That's why you rev up the engine, and the RPMs drop normal until 1500ish, and hangs for a few seconds then drops back to normal idle. And I explained why I had problems in my other post on page 2? I have a overwound HO alt with underdrive pullies that doesn't put hardly anything at the right TPS voltage. And you adjust the tps voltage by adjusting a allen screw on the side of the TB. It has a little hole that allows air to get past the blade when its shut, therefore changing your idle. I have a 94 Mustang GT. And these had different TB than any other 5.0, so if you haven't messed with one, that might be why you didn't understand the screw part. I'm done with the conversation about my product at this point, I didn't come in here threatening to sue or anything like that. I also didn't say anyone was stealing my product, just warned against it. Now that there has been some creative editing things read a little different in this thread. I'm not worried about that anyway, I'm sure the lawyer could deal with that easily if the need was to arise. I'm not the type that goes around suing people or pushing them around with threats. The 94 Mustang isn't the only model with an air bypass on the throttle body, I am familiar with it's setting. Adsjusting the air bypass will alter will confuse the system if it's too far out of spec. The factory parameter for the air volume at idle at a given TPS voltage determines the position of the IAC. You can allow more air past with that screw but at the closed-throttle TPS voltage it can cause a lean conditon and an idle surge. It will pick up when leaned out, the IAC tries to lower it, drops down, IAC tries to return to programmed position, idle picks up again. EECIV isn't the smartest EFI, I have been there with this problem in the past. Are you running a stock throttle body? What modifications have you done to the engine?

i can take the pic down, your product wasnt the basis of this thread when it first started, but my opinion got intertwined somewhere along the way. so like i said dont take any offense, most ppl are too lazy to go out and figure things like this out anyway and would rather be able to plug and go about there business. Yeah, I never said anything adjusting throttle blade set screw. Then act like I'm missinforming people, HaHa. Also, I'd like to say, as long as the picture is used for education and discussing purpose, usually isn't a copyright problem, so therefore doesn't need permissions. Maybe somebody need to learn copyright law a little better. Also, it was made clear that it was Mechman's product, not like somebody was using it for their own gain. a Someone mentioned something about an 8mm wrench, you use that to adjust the throttle plate, not the TPS. Maybe I misread, maybe not, but you did mention idle problems? As for adjusting the TPS to control your idle, that may or may not have a good result for you with Ford EECIV or Ford EECV system. Having owned several, raced many and built countless EECIV controlled cars I have a little experience in this. If I misunderstood what you were trying to do here excuse me for trying to help. You mentioned continual idle problems, did you fix them? What kind of problem are you having with your Ford? I can help quite a bit as I spent thousands of hours under the hood of Mustangs building, tuning and racing them. I usually have at least on Ford as a DD, right now it's a Crown Vic PI, but Mustangs are my thing. The picture is of my product and was used in a discussion covering how to adjust voltage. Did I say that it was a copyright issue? This thread was going down the path of dissecting my product and building more for profit. When people start talking about building their own and my product is pictured why don't you talk to your lawyer about how that works. I have said that the design should be your own, not my design, nothing about copyright or even better, PATENT law. The photo isn't copyrighted but have you checked for a patent on the design? The idea of being able to raise charging voltage is good, using resistance in the sense circuit is the way to do it, but not all regulators work the same even in the same model alternator. In that respect I am just trying to keep some of you from having issues by trying to add resistance. Some regulators will have batt voltage going to the sense lead in the plug but will not read from there, they will read from inside the regulator. By adding resistance to the sense lead in that type of unit you will either create a constant fluctuation in the voltage or no adjustment. Some will trigger battery warning lights. On some units they changed the pin they used for sensing. Variables in the Ford 3G/4G/6G alternators are so many that I can't even remember them all. We have a solution for the units that can't be externally adjusted, it's more than a plug-in harness. We also have a protection in our design to prevent catastrophic overcharging. I'm not saying to not add resistors, just be cautious when doing this so you don't create problems in your charging system.

Yep, as long as it's not PCM controlled you should have no problem. The Jeep, Mustang and Silverado are all running 14v with no issues. I would turn up the charging on my Volvo if XS Power made a 13lb 14v battery but I am not ready to put a heavier battery in my autocross car. I can't run it in my Crown Vic, it's PCM controlled. Josh's airbagged S-10 is 14v too, the compressors run for a shorter time to fill the tanks and run cooler in the process. The limitation in your common automotive charging system is the battery. 12v flooded batteries are the standard in the industry and everything is rated for 12v. The only issues I can see are amplifiers that have protection circuits that don't like the higher voltage or aftermarket engine managment needing the fuel tables adjusted due to the increased voltage. Modern PCM's will automatically compensate for the increased voltage. The sister lover thing is a figure of speech, no offense intended to anyone in a non-traditional relationship........ 16v is nice if you can run dual alternators. We have done a few recently that worked out great, incredible output at that voltage.

You can run a 14v battery in your vehicle every day, you have to charge it at the correct voltage for it to work properly.

Running it with 12v batteries would be very bad. Did you watch the video? We have 2 XS Power 14v batteries in the truck. We talk about them in the video and they are shown on the red rack under the rear of the vehicle. There's nothing wrong with running 14v batteries in a so-called 'daily' vehicle. What's going to happen? The charging voltage is kept low in OE applications because the 12v flooded batteries can't handle charging voltage above 14.8-15 without damage. When you switch over to a 14v AGM battery you have to charge above 16v as recommended by XS Power and there are no negative side effects to running at higher voltage. As long as the amps are able to handle voltage that high there is no problem at all. If your amp MFG says nothing over 16v this might not be for you. Higher voltage is the way of the future, auto manufacturers have been pushing for 28v for 15+ years, battery companies and people who don't understand electricity are what is holding us back. Read all you want, you will find those who are against it didn't have the proper equipment, installed it wrong or didn't use it at all, just listened to what Jimmy Joe Bob said-"you ain't got no good use for no 14v". The only thing standing in the way of it is PCM controlled charging systems. Do the math, will your system produce more power @ 14.5v or 16.5v?

Here's our 97 Jeep TJ with one of our 270a High Output bolt-in conversions charging 2 XS Power S1400 14v batteries. 14v power is where it's at for off-road, car audio, racing, anywhere you can't run a 16v system. Charging @ 16.8v FTW. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txmBckhKHSA For more info email [email protected]

That's up to you to determine, but that "Sensing and switching circuits" section is the one to look at, the problem is in there on many of the 4G. While they look the same on paper the circuitry is not the same in the regulator. Also, don't forget that there are several regulators available. Which Crown Vic? My 03 isn't like that at all.

Finding the draw is not as hard as you would think. It can be intimidating with all of the circuits involved in a modern car, but you just apply a little logic. Hook a meter that can read the amperage of the draw in line in the positive cable. Pull fuses until the draw goes away. The fuse that you pulled that stopped the draw will contain the problem. Once you isolate that circuit hook into the lead out of the fuse and measure the draw. Disconnect everything one at a time on that circuit until the draw is eliminated. The last device you disconnect or the circuit to that device is the problem. This is a VERY generalized method of isolating electrical problems, this is the most basic explanation so anyone with a meter can isolate the problem and have success fixing their own electrical problems. It's not hard, just think before you act so you don't damage anything.

A few years ago I had a juvenile in a stolen car being chased by the police lose control and run across the neighbors yard. The neighbor lost a chunk of sod, I lost 3 cars, all totalled. I sued as insurance wasn't covering this mess for some reason, won the settlement and have still been fighting to get my money out of these low life sacks. Tell your friend good luck, I hope it works out for him.

Mechman builds a bolt-in kit for your car. If you have not already purchased batteries consider stepping up to a 14v system. It's a drop in swap with one of our alternators, no extra step-down module BS or any other issues, bolt in the alternator and 14v batteries, adjust the voltage to the correct charging level and go. Louder music, brighter lights, easier starting and a charging voltage of 16.5v, resting of 14.7-14.8v. No step-down module BS required, it's a drop in swap. We have 3 of our vehicles running 14v right now, the turbocharged 408ci Mustang, 3/4 ton Silverado 6.0, and the Jeep TJ. If someone made a 13lb 14v battery I would be running it in my autocross car, I can't in my DD, it's PCM controlled. Just something to consider. Our alternators for your car have adjustable voltage so you run the alternator as 12v for now, step up to 14v later if cashflow is a concern.

Disconnect the batteries from the vehicle and charge them with a proper AGM charger. From there you can load test them to determine the condition of the batteries. As stated the alternator will not perform properly with batteries are not performing to spec. Don't kill your alternator with bad batteries. It may be time for new batteries, these may no longer be up to spec. OR you may have a draw on your vehicle causing them to drop overnight when connected. You should check that too.

Hi Mark. We will be taking care of the rest of this deal we have going tomorrow. Got to get the Jeep done today! Glad we could help. Just a little belt slip can cause problems, makes it impossible to have stable voltage. If this mod works properly on 6G units then go for it, but make sure you have a voltmeter in the car so you know what it does cold, hot, driving, and under high load. I would hate to see someone smoke their alternator or battery or worse, their PCM by overcharging. Glad to be here, looking forward to getting to know you all better.

No, far too busy for that, the phone is ringing all the time and there are tons of emails every day. Mark is setting up our section and we will be fully here on SSA in another day or so. He invited us here a while back and I now have the time to get to this forum. It looks like a good forum so far, there is good information in here and the membership is growing. We are still active on the other sites and that's not going to change, but we were invited here so here we are.

Thinking on your own is great, building your own product is great, go ahead and design your own. When our design is shown here as an example what are we going to think? Looks like someone is taking our hard work and trying to make money off of it. I already explained the cost involved so feel free to design your own, and when you do I wish you the best, but make it your own design. As for your ideas so far you are on the right track but be sure to add a protect so you don't overcharge when the temp drops. That can be bad. Leave the picture up, but at least get the name right. Yes, most are too lazy to do it themselves, and some just don't have the time, the rest just want to plug in a proven, reliable, tested product and not worry about it. This mod WILL NOT work with any alternator with a sensing wire. It may work on your 6G but have you tried it on a 4G? Do you know which units have power going to the connector on the sense wire but sense voltage internally? You see the voltage on the meter but the alternator is looking somewhere else for that voltage. Regulators changed even within the same model, 4G and 6G have a few different regulators with different pin-outs and function. I am always available to help with technical questions about charging systems, there is a lot of misinformation being spread, so feel free to ask. I won't give specifics, that's how we make a living, but I can always help point in the right direction. Eric@mechman.

When we come to this forum and see our product and discussion about how it works, copying it and selling it for money I am sure that you can see our concern. I already told you how little profit there is in these units, so there is no need to go into that any further. We sell a product that works properly for a fair price, buy it from us or build your own, that's your choice, but make it your design, not ours.

We aren't offended in the slightest, just want you to know where the expense comes in building these units. It's not as cheap as you think. Not every alternator with a sense lead works the same, while this may work for your 6G try making this work on a 4G. It has a sense lead but is entirely different in the function. We just want to share some information to keep people from wasting their time and money on something that may or may not work for their application. Did you know that the sense lead isn't always a sense lead? Or that in the same style of alternator it can sense from a different pin? Years of knowledge tell us which one to use, and if we don't know we have the ability to find out. If you want to know if this is possible on your car all you have to do is ask, if we tell you one is available as a plug-in option then yes, you can build one. Some units will require a different regulator to function with the adjuster. Let's not get into the units that have a regulator AND have the PCM controlling too, that's a whole new can of worms. Alternators aren't that complicated unit you get into the regulators and how they interface with the car. That's where you get into trouble and can cause damage to your electrical system if you are not aware of what you are doing.

Well where to start..... This could be the right product for you, it varies by application. Ford used a variety of regulators, many will not allow for this style of voltage adjustment without internal modification or swapping to the correct regulator. This applies to 3G, 4G, 6G units. On some units you will be able to adjust the voltage in this fashion without modification, some you won't. Some models with the same regulator will use pins that others don't, completely altering the function of the adjustment module. Our units (AS PICTURED) are built to work with specific applications, they are not universal and can require modification to the alternator in some applications to allow for external voltage adjustment. Some are PCM controlled and may still have the same style plug. In that case you can adjust it all you want and it will never work properly. To properly build a product like this you must source the plugs, the wire, internal components and then make it all work properly together. Our units are designed to limit voltage to prevent spikes that can damage your PCM and other components, have you seen what 25+v can do to a PCM? By the time you buy all the parts, assemble it, dyno test it and fit it to the car you are spending all this time and money to make $20. Some units require custom made plugs, we have them built to our spec. So when you build this you will have a unit that works on SOME Ford 6G ONLY? Not a good business model. We sell these as an accessory, not as a profit center. In the future I would appreciate if you had our permission before you used our pictures when discussing a design of your own. I'm all for you developing your own product, but develop YOUR OWN product, don't rip off our design. That can have some unpleasant ramifications. Not trying to be a jerk about this, just letting you know our take on this. Feel free to build your own and try to sell them, but make it your own design. If you have a PCM controlled unit OR the improper regulator OR it is not set properly you can have these same problems. That would be when you give me an email or call. It's not the same thing, there's more to it than just adding a resistance. What happens when the temp cools? Voltage goes up. Then what happens? This is a cheap alternative, do this at your own risk. Adjusting the throttle plate on your Ford vehicles will not correct charging issues. It will cause excessively high idle, surging and other problems because the computer is trying to compensate for the extra air being let in when the throttle plate should be closed. It's best to let the IAC do it's job and set up the charging system properly.