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Basically what i was trying to say was that if you disconnect the pos terminals, you will only charge the completed circuit connections. The ones that have both + -

Think of that alt as your ctek and ignore the other things. Your only concerned about power sources. bats, caps, inductors, lol...technically, caps short and inductors open when charged but this info serves no purpose here lol so just the battery in this case. I was trying to find the diagram like the one i posted that illustrated that, but cant find it.

http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/chargingdiagram.swf yup

yessir, probably didn't need to be so big lol 2x2 But i had upgrades in mind when i made it.

or i think you can ship them to psi aka fixmyspeaker.com and have them put together something and give you the specs for it. I think............

I have some dc baskets that were redrilled it looks like to fit on my MT's.. I dont think the basket is as big of a deal as the voice coil fitting properly. aka not bottoming our or rubbing.

what size wire is that? I got the same basket for an MT recone thought they looked kind of small, so i was going to drill it out.

^^^ as i stated my sub caught fire as well. Although it was a recone with sandwiched leads tho.

lmao wth that video was horrible

http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/subwoofers/73884-fis-response-burning-tinsel-leads.html and the other on smd, make me scratch my head especially since i too had a fiery fiasco... But since these are 'not' sandwitch tinsel's i dont see why they just didn't come apart. Im still buying fi recones, but those 2 threads didn't make me happy

u need fuses for iasca dont u?

man when i was 17 i was the same way, money was always tight, instead of using 4 gauge power wire, i got a some 4 gauge house wire for dirt cheap. It wasn't the most flexy, but it still worked lol. I agree use what you have, till you get your funds ups. It's your system and thats all that should matter is that you are enjoying the sport and having fun. I think alot of ppl lose sight of that part. edit: another thought. I bet even if you had a system installed from BB with some POS kenwood subs and matching amp you would still get crap about it, so as stated your car you install. but i do agree that flying speakers and amps wouldn't be good, but u have it bolted down so blah

Alot of subs been catching fire lately it would seem.

u might die from the DB'zzzzz thats why

any pics of what its supposed to look like?

Man if i could only get a camera in our test room at work. We pretty much destroy centrifuges at work from time to time and that looks like a good way to do it. Buyer A incorrectly places tube into centrifuge lol

wait so is the box on the fold down just a box? And the subs are in teh trunk? Im confused

lmao i would love to do one of these lmao

Its 2 25's. so with out alot of math your looking at 720watts max while the car is running and bridged. So i would say 500w would be more of a realistic rating

http://www.lowpriceskates.com/browseproducts/Bones-Ceramic.HTML skate bearings

well sorry about that what is the fuse rating?

I may have just confused myself for a second but E=IR P=E^2/R So assuming you are at 12v and the fuse rating is 30amps(meaning that is the max that the amplifier will pull before blowing) So E/I=R 12/30=.4ohms watts=E^2/R 144/.4=360w max now you try with 14.4v or with a running car...

take the fuse rating and multiply it by 10 edit i meant 10