Booosh

Mines a 2000 but yea that rendering is of a 94.

Front or rear? If its a rear bumper you can find roll pans for your truck selling for around a 150 As for your headliner...Replace it yourself. Take the old one out use it as a template and pick up some fabric of your choice.

Nice. Dinner and some drinks always works. Take her out to a nice pub. I have always done that with me girl, but im Irish so Im alwaya at the pub. They are great ya can sit down and talk have some good grub and some spirits. Flowers are a never fail. Go to the club with her! Remember her birthday is for her, and by doing something you dont want to gets you brownie points, which you can use for butt sex.

2000 s10 X-cab

Update. I went with the Alpine IVA-W205 hope to have it by wednesday. Keep an eye out for the build log as I am going from 1.5 din to double. Should be interesting.

Would you reccomend it if you can acheive optimal cu. ft.?

So tonight at work I was discussing my upcoming sub build with a few guys. One of the master debaters argured that stuffing a sealed box with poly-fil was recommended and the other said it was a joke. Yes? No? Why? Thanks.

Well my budget for the head unit is no more than 1k. Im looking for something with a 7 or 8 inch lcd touchscreen. and something tthat will run 3 amps.

Ive heard good and Ive herad bad, tell me what you think...Top one is the one I was looking at the 80001NT

You are absolutly right bigjon. Although blowing out if different than breaking. If you roll up your dime windows the pressure is going to escape through the weakest point i.e rear window gasket. Thus causing it to blow out, not break. Anyhow I believe we are losing the main focus of this thread.

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value=" name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object> dont belive? Thats window flex from 1 12"

It is if you have 2" bullet proof windows...Ive seen a few guys blow out their back window running 2 18's which is cool as hell but not if its your truck. If you are dead set on putting something big in your dime I would look into infinate baffle, which is what alot of guys do...or a blowthrough

OK I know they are out there Im just having trouble finding them. Its driving me nuts everywhere I look there is nothing but 4 ohm. Help me out guys so I can get some sleep.

Nope im only on SSA, CAT and mini truck.com

Look into Soundsplinter RLP's they have good SPL and SQ and arent overly expensive. And dont worry about being a noob, we all were at one point.

I have a dime as well and I think 2 18's will create too much cabin pressure. If I were you I would go with one 18 or as I will be 2 rl-p12's.

You could test at 0db but you really need watch becasue subsonic sounds really reak havoc on speakers. As for tone generators they are good for around 0.2% accuracy rate.

You'll need a test disc with a variety of test tones. I use the official IASCA test disc, but there are some of the "Bass Discs" that have test ones as well. You do NOT want to use sweeps, only pure tones. There ian AutoSound 2000 disc (#101?) which has a signal which is unclipped for 20 seconds, clipped for 5, and then unclipped for the last 5 seconds. I have never used the AutoSound 2000 discs, but know them to have excellent ommendations (as well as all the test tones you could ever need). Viewing this track on your scope's display could be useful if you've never seen clipping on an oscilloscope display before. You start by finding the clipping level of your head unit. Many of the better head units will not clip the pre-amp outputs, even at full volume, but it's always better safe than sorry. Disconnect the RCA's from your head unit. Pop in your test disc and skip to the track with a 1 KHz tone. If your CD player has a repeat function, set it to repeat just this track. That way you won't have to skip back at the end of the tone. Set your bass, treble, fader, and balance all to center. Turn the volume all the way up. Probe your right and left front (and rear if you have them) one at a time. Your scope should show a wave, either a sine wave or a clipped sine wave. If you have a standard pure sine wave then all is good, and you're ready to proceed. If you have a clipped wave then you need to turn down the volume, one click at a time until you see a perfect sine wave on your scope's display. Remember this point, as this is the highest you can EVER turn up your head unit. After you set the level for one of your outputs the rest should be the same, but check them all just to be sure. The results will be the same if you leave the RCA's plugged into the head unit and disconnect them at the other end (from your amp/EQ/processor/whatever) but unless you have a remote control you'll be running back and forth to change the volume. If your head unit has subwoofer pre-amp outputs you'll need to test them using a different tone. I usually test subwoofer outputs at a level midway between the crossover points. For example, if your subwoofer outputs are crossed over at 80Hz then you would want to use a 40Hz test tone. Other than that the procedure for testing subwoofer pre-outputs isthe same as testing front or rear outputs. Once you've found the clipping level of your head unit it's time to proceed down the signal chain. If you are using an EQ, preamp, DSP, or other processor (NOT including crossovers) test them next. Leave your EQ set the way you usually use it. Hook up the processor and probe all theoutputs of your processors in the same method as you did your head unit. You should probe each of the outputs using tones that match the bands of your EQ. For example, if you have a 9 band EQ with bands at 50/100/200/400/800/1.5k/3k/6k/12kHz you would probe your EQ 9 times, once with a 50 Hz test tone, once with a 100 Hz test tone, and so on. If your EQ also includes a crossover you'll need to follow the crossover procedure. If any of these processors are clipping you will probably need to turn down your head unit's volume control or make any adjustments on that unit that you can. For example, if you are testing an EQ and you have any bands excessively boosted, try bringing down that band first. That may be causing your clipping. To test your crossover you need to probe each output using a test tone that is midway between the high and low pass. For example, a channel which is crossed over between 100 Hz and 20 KHz (like a front channel) would be tested at 9950 Hz. Since you'll be hard pressed to find a 9975 Hz test tone on your CD use the 10Khz tone. For a rear channel crossed over with a lowpass of 3500 Hz you would use a 1750 Hz tone. As you again would have problems finding a 1750 Hz tone on a CD use a 2 KHz tone. For a subwoofer channel lowpassed at 70 Hz you would use a 35 Hz tone. This one you may find on your CD, if not use 30 Hz or 40 Hz. Assuming your crossover has level settings you will want to turn the level for whatever channel you're testing all the way up and probe the output. Assuming the output is clipping, back the level down slowlyuntil you see a perfect wave on your scope. Now it's time to check your amp's outputs. Hook up your amps and play the same test tones you were using on the crossover. Disconnect the speakers and then turn the gains all the way up. Probe the first channel's output. Adjust the gain the same way you did your crossover. Back the gain down slowly until your wave isn't clipping anymore. Voila! You are done. You have just effectively eliminated clipping from your system. If you turn your bass or treble up, or boost up a channel on your EQ you may introduce some clipping. After major EQ work you may want to redo this procedure, starting at the EQ.

I say ditch the rlp-12's and sell them to me

Well I wouldnt use anything smaller than 2/0. As for the slack you want to take out at much as possible because the longer the cables the more resistance

Yea sorry guys ext dime is an extended (ext) cab s-10 (dime).

Well like I stated its going into my ext dime so I have the whole area where the jumpseats are. Enclosure will be a custom built sealed enclosure built by me.

Dang did some research and I just misses a nice sale in june on the 1500d...once again day late and a dollar short...poo

Yea I planned on gettting 2 subs weither way because I like the symmetry...the rlps rms is 500-1000 watt. Now I just have to research the sundown.

Well im pretty much stuck between either the rli-10s or the rlp12s. I was just wondering if the 12s would be too big to put in my ext dime? I want a good mix of SQ and power without having to put in bulletproof glass. I have an amp picked out for the 10s, a pheonix gold x600.1 but I dont know what I would power the 12s with if i decide to go the route. Thanks.