re-sx-18-d3.2

Some guy on CL is selling one locally. 3x 4v pre outs. RCA input (with $5 cable from ebay) remote, ipod hookup, etc. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11105_Pioneer-Premier-DEH-P500UB.html It's also steering control ready which would be cool. I just need the panel for my steering wheel but I think it would be worth it. Also, I noticed I can either get this thing (Pioneer CD-RB20 -Use for Pass -Thru IP-Bus for MCD Player Connectiom) Or this. or this (Pioneer IP-Bus to RCA, 3.5mm) Is there any advantage of having the module vs the other ones? BTW I'm on the stock unit and all I need is a 3.5mm and 3x preouts.

I'm sorry. I'll try to add pictures with fewer words next time so these "engineers" can understand what I'm asking next time

If everyone could help themselves, forums wouldn't exist.

Why don't you tell that to the "engineer" who simply posted "no" to my page-long post? If you can't help, don't post. It's simple.

So you must love yourself while you can't read more than a few sentences at a time, apparently. Says a lot about you.

I don't drink soda.

I asked a bunch of questions and even mentioned that it was cool if I only got one of them answered...do you want me to make a thread for every single question?

To anyone who has decent reading comprehension, feel free to throw some suggesitons out there.

Thanks, I will. Still looking for suggestions. Suggestions to fix what? On what I should use with what. Should I get an amp that does more power for the mids? Which LOC's should I be using? I explaind all of this in the first post. Please re-read it. "No" is not helpful at all. And now you understand why I answered no. You have given us NOTHING to go on. If you think your system is perfect DO NOT change it at all. If it isn't perfect then we can't help unless you can describe what you want to fix.I guess you can't read. Take a look at the first post again.

Thanks, I will. Still looking for suggestions. Suggestions to fix what?On what I should use with what. Should I get an amp that does more power for the mids? Which LOC's should I be using? I explaind all of this in the first post. Please re-read it. "No" is not helpful at all.

Thanks, I will. Still looking for suggestions.

I already have a completely working system though...fuck 2 ways Running a DDC with that Vifa is not a working system, sure it plays music but that is about it.How is it not working? Are you trying to be clever or what?

I already have a completely working system though...fuck 2 ways

I am not running all of these at once, but I have the option of choosing any combination. I am running 2 vifa Vifa BC25SC06-04 and 2 DDC6.5"s I have a sony xm-4045, 4040 and 6020. I have a cache cloc'd, pac SNI-35, pac sni-15 and fierce FILC20V2 I just picked up an american bass ABX-3.1A crossover which I will be using to replace an older optimus 3 way crossover, and I will be using it for the mids and tweeters. I will level match (to my liking, which will leave the tweeters a little brighter than the mids) on the crossover. My question on that is what the output knob does. It doesn't show any db so I'm guessing that with the knob maxed out, it's simple not limiting the output voltage - is this true? What configuration of amplifiers should I be running and what amps should power what speakers? I have no problem with running 2 of the amps and only using 2 channels on one of the 4 channel amps. The 6020 seemed perfect for the tweeters, but I feel that power should go towards the mids since they need it more (tweeters are 50w rms, mids are supposedly 80w rms) Another thing I want to add is the terrible alternator whine. I have not touched the "common ground" on the cache cloc'd and I noticed these other LOC's all have brown wires which I assume is for the common ground - where should this be grounded to? The battery or the frame? (Also no problem with running a direct line to the battery if necessary, or at least the thing under the hood that lets you jump from under the hood, while the battery is in the back near the spare tire) I do want to swap at least on of the amps for one with a bit more power (probably one of the 4 channels for a 80x2 @ 4 or 150x 1 @ 2 amp, since I have no need for balance and generally hate it when a song only plays a note/sound in one of the speakers, which always makes me thing I hooked up something wrong and it came loose or the speaker itself has stopped working) Currently, the LOC is set to 4v output with each RCA output split, with one line to the sub amp and one to the current crossover. Any help on anything is appreciated, I won't be disappointed if you can only answer one thing.

aww shit, post of the day right here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLLQtCdeXzk

You didn't vote bro

Just curious

Won't a smaller box limit the low end response though? That has been the case with 2 12"s I have. I wanted to give it the full 8 cubes so I can get the most low end response out of the sub.

OK I won't use the RE calculator. What should I use? I really can't afford a $300 box. I have no choice but to make it myself. I would be willing to pay for a legitimate blueprint though. That seems fair. I admit, I don't know how to calculate any of the things you meantioned, but I can still put the box together myself at least.

I have my sundown @ 90% gain, with a pac lc-1 up front. The LC-1 is usually at half way and I turn it up for older songs, and down for decaf songs. I have been running a $55 VVME RD-12 for a year, with no problems, and I've been abusing it under port tuning and it's still going strong. And that's with a 1.75 f^3 box when it supposedly need 2.5-3 cubes. I'm hoping that this RE isn't pure crap NEW RE because I would like to assume that it can hold up to more abuse than this $55 sub I've been abusing for a year.

tl;dr 1k rms for each, I think. 2 ohm from a saz1500d v1. Sub is dual 3.2 (final 1.6) so I'm guessing right around 2 ohm after rise...800-1000w rms? It's supposedly rated for 1k rms but this sub feels like the cheap RE after the buyout of whatever so i'm guessing that is a generous rating.

I am fairly confident with my skills to build a box. But I still want some personal help. I have made a few ads on CL and got a few replies so far. This one guy says if I get the plans, then he can build it. I just need to help do one or 2 for some experience. I almost never need to build a box as I have a 12" 1.75 and 4.0 15" ported box which are pretty much good for any 12" or 15". But I decided to spring for an 18" this time. i know, if I'm asking, then I can't do it. But I'm just asking as a reference. I know it's not hard to build a box once you know what to do anyway. What program is used to do the virtual sketch up? Here is what I have so far in the RE box calculator. I have it like this because I want it port up/sub up. Is 9 cubes too much? Recommended is 5.5-8 cubes. I am going for killer low end response. The measurements I have to work with are 38" width, 19" height and 33" depth. I would like to cut 3-6" off of the depth and 1-3 off of the height if possible (any combination is fine)

I know this is old, but I have the same sub and I'm trying to get make a box for it. How well does this sub like the lows? How much power were you giving it?