rushnrun

Will do got sidetracked for a couple of days. My buddy brought over his cousin's car for me to do a full install on (with my current unemployed state-I can use any extra cash I can get--So I told him I'd get it done) ***got the metal for the amprack/battery tray, some 1/8" angle iron and 7/16" flat... quite a bit.. I'll probably get that done (well started) on saturday.

hmmmmmmm.... gotta luv the pups!

cost me about 35 to ship a 60lb nightshade to fl.. 55 is high for a single 15... should be 30ish

Well here's another 3 hrs of work on this thing. I modified my battery tray to fit a Group 31 batt. soldered up all the battery and ground connections. Onto the Ground for Inside, Dual 1/0 gauge into a single 2/0 ring term soldered painted over it to keep it from rusting any more than it already is carpet back in place Changed my mind for now on the front stage. I had a few pairs of 4" massive speakers so I figured I'd put 2 in each door-replacing the factory 6x9 in the future I'll upgrade it to an active 6.5" comp set... but right now I don't feel like doing the door mods for it. it didn't sound very good so I pulled it out and tore off the factory plastic... and started adding deadener. there's one large strip attached to each outer door skin.. about 2 square feet. after the doors being deadened they sound much clearer and the bass response increased (not that it's great... they're 4" drivers) that's all for now.. hopefully I'll get the amp rack all constructed/welded tomorrow

I'm not a sound q fella... but... their 950.5 amp sounds much cleaner than my kicker zx700.5 the amps do a little more than rated power and seem to be pretty clean sounding.

well this is all I got done in the hour before it rained. Now I'm off to hang out with the old lady... Learned something today.. don't pretape the wires together before you run them through the rubber boot.. the tape just hangs up in the boot and causes all sorts of issues. All the wires are secured to the floor using some monting tabs and stainless steel screws. **remember this is an SPL install so it doesn't have to be too pretty.. I just like everything to be neat and secure. *****sorry for loading the pictures in reverse order... guess I wasn't paying attention...

link doesn't work for me.... could just be my computer though..

black grill ftw... lookin' good.

I'm not sure what shop did it. I just know the previous owner had a shop put it in (they didn't say which one) as for whats going in.... Kinda undecided.. I've got a bunch of stuff to choose from.. Right now I just want to get it set up and ready to go. I've got some Shows here real soon and it need to be functional, not final.. all I know for sure... it's going to be running a bi-amped front stage.. probably active (depending on which deck/processor I use), I'm putting my 6.5" Soundstream comp set in there (I bought them in 05 and they've been sitting on the shelf.. it was an expensive set back when I got it)--the detail of the soundstream midrange is awesome.. the tweeter is a bit too shrill for me, so we'll see where that goes... I'll be updating daily.. I'm working on the doors and speaker wiring right now.

Well I've started the Ram finally. The tranny is about toast, but I'll deal with that when she gives up. So far I'm just started on wiring. I gutted it and started the wiring yesterday--and cleaned the moldy carpet (door seals are bad and getting replaced)... only about 3 hours invested so far. I didn't do before pics, really didn't think about it. here's some deadener. All I did is replace what was bad of the factory deadener. I have no intent on keeping this truck so I don't care to go all out on it. the factory deadener was crumbling from the excessive water that's been on the floor board. this is about all the deadener you need on the back to keep it from humming/rattling. Panel sounds pretty dead so that's all it's getting. Stock door. Mounting a 6.5 comp set where the 6x9 is. nothing fancy. just making a plate so it fits. If you live in Bloomington IL check you're local shops installs... this is how they mounted the CD player they put in. a 35mm film case cut down an wood glued, and a stack of .25 in wood kept the cd player upright. the whole thing had one screw in it. amazingly they actualy tried to ground it properly...

ahhh... profiles.... back in the day my buddy ran 4 of the "baja" profiles... sounded better than expected but he ran them in 1 cube each in his little tracer... those woofers have NO excursion.. it's like 6mm or something like that.... I don't really remember.. **go with a single 10" sub or even a single square 8 if your stuck on kicker.. I've ran several single 8 and 10 setups in S-10's and they sounded great... I can't imagine that the ranger's would be any different.. ***and for the other argument. I've personally done 151db sealed on the dash (street class) with a pair of 10's and roughly 3000 watts proof.... look for Bill Johnson --- http://www.slapshow.com/archives/05results/06-18-05ILdb.html two diamond audio D610's and two soundstream EGA1700d's strapped running 1 ohm.

pm'd him on an xcon 18.... I'm buying up a few 18's to play with

hmmmmmm..... 18" recone for 90..... how much do you want for the motor... ?

subsonic on zero=bad

PM'ed on X-con 18 been wanting one of those woofers for some time.. might as well get a free box with it

box size & tuning?

not a bad score off that low of power. Pretty nice install.... boy does that power wire look familiar... what type of car is that?

nvm...

***on the same topic as the "wow factor" when I ran 2 15's people were impressed until I popped the trunk and showed them the woofers... then they feed the "well no wonder it's loud, look how big the woofers are" I think people appreciate it more when you're loud with less.. my 1 10 at 149.7 db was impressive and drew a huge crowd at every show... my 2 15's at 153db were impressive but didn't get the attention of the single 10

I use 10's because of the WOW factor that you get from your "dumb" car audio enthusiast (people that think you need 12

****it would never read a true 1 ohm...... the subs won't read 4, the wire will cause resistance, and if you have it hooked to the amp still??? It shouldn't (not that it isn't possible) have read exactly 1ohm at the amp.... should (in most cases) have been .8 .7 ect.... ***this isn't an absolute fact but.......

I've got a few good used amps , some refurbs but no new...

x2 looks like you're set around 30ish hz on the LPF

got the calipers out... they're +or- 1/16" on accuracy... :/ the coil reads 3.000" inner diameter.. outer diameter reads 3.249"

your box is roughly 6cubes at 37ish hz... so pretty well dead on what you said... so what was your major miss calculation?