Everything posted by rushnrun
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My New Amp For Testing
plus I traded off the mazda and the civic is gutted .. so I don't have a car to do a quick test in so I have to do all testing on the bench.. I'll be using 4 industrial acid filled batteries that float at 13.3v a cheap soundstream dvd/cd player for signal, or maybe just the laptop and a line driver.... (with selling off the mazda and gutting the civic I sold all my good decks.. and most of the equipment that was in them... now I've got to use some b/s )
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My New Amp For Testing
hopefully I'll have some numbers tomarrow. tonight I've got to get the bench set back up.. It's been a while since I've done any testing
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My New Amp For Testing
first I'll be testing 12v at 4,2,1 and .5 ohms.. I assume all ratings are at 17 volts, I'll be testing output at 60hz
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RE SX
On 3k My single SE (not SX) Did 148.8 all sealed on the dash in my civic T/L mic (that's the best I did with it) ... I finally broke it running it off 2 kicker zx2500's... still plays but the "inner dustcap" seperated from the cone.. so now it rattles with the cap floating around in there.. broken it still does 46's in the mazda So I'd say the SX should be able to do better than that... depending on some variables
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My New Amp For Testing
*** sorry I forgot there are some random numbers on the board.. they're not the serial... probably the part number of the board....?
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My New Amp For Testing
pretty queer huh? there's nothing written anywhere else on the board.. no name brand no serial not anything.. just Danger other than that the board is suprisingly clean. I don't see anything that looks like an oops... the only thing I see that could be a potential problem is the 4ga wire... doesn't look to be a very good qaulity(looks like coarse 8 gauge with a thick insulator) the wire itself doesn't feel very secure... the solder joint is good but just right after the solder the cable wiggles very freely.... I figure after enough vibration that'll eventually lead to broken wire... I'll probably get her held down a little better. the other thing I'm not liking is the phillips head set screws.. they're a soft metal and will strip easily... especially when cranking down on 0 gauge.. I'll probably make a run to the hardware store and pick up a set of allen heads for it..
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overveiw of the ed a
hmmm... I been thinking about buying on of these for testing... maybe I'll stay away until I see one for myself..
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My New Amp For Testing
It's a Clif Designs amp... I don't remember the modle number. It's the biggest one they make. I use to run the ANABA family when I couldn't afford "good stuff" so I figured I'd "go back to my roots" it's more for testing than anything. I'll be throwing it on a 2 or 4 of clif's best spl 15's, again I don't know the modle numbers... they're just sitting in the living room btw... this stuff isn't cheap (in price) like it use to be...
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My New Amp For Testing
next to the zx 2500..... I'll get it opened up for comparison
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My New Amp For Testing
Well it was probably a waste of time / money but here's the new toy to test out... suppose to handle 17 volts and do 5k++watts... we'll see... I'll be doing some bench testing this week (and yes just testing I have no intention of keeping the amp, unless it suprises me) some pics
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2008 Jeep Patriot
my g/f has an 08 with the cvt.. It's weird riding in a car that doesn't shift... especially when you go back to driving a stick afterwards.. she get's roughly 23mpg in town and about the same on the highway..
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dp-21 is finally in!
if using one layer of .75" material his box is right at ten cubes after displacment of the woofer and port.... your calculation was gross external volume.....
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96 tahoe 2L7 15's 2000 watts... basic install
http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=...ideoid=27964439 Well this is the quick install I did in my buddies Yukon... only spent about 4-5 hours--including time to build the box... the dancing can is 3/4 full... we noticed it spinning while we were adjusting so I shot a video of it.... don't mind the distortion.. it doesn't sound like that... my cheap digital camera can't handle the pressure.
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stupid question
With a 44% increase in surface area and the same amount of power your probably going to see a gain.. anywhere between 1-3 db.. however it all depends.. I don't believe there's any easy science to it... even though it's the same woofer... the two different sizes have different parameters (efficiency ect)..... different box requirements.... I'm sure the 18's would be louder but I'm not sure how worthwhile it would be.. I think the old rule they use to push was 2x surface area and 2x power = 3db louder... (by "they" I mean the old audio shop (1998) in my town...) generally I don't worry about any of that though I like bunches of power and itty bitty woofers..
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Port Direction
port side, sub up works well in most pickups... you really just need to test.. I normally make a cheapie box out of .5" mdf with a cheap eight or ten mounted and just keep changing port location/sub orientation until I find the "sweet spot"
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Went to Car Toys today....
I woulda let you sit in my kicker ride Not saying Kicker's better.... Just saying if you know what you're doing...... almost anything can get loud... b.t.w. It's common knowledge that if it's on tv or at best buy it's the $h!t :):)
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enclosure for 18" btl fully loaded
any pics? vids?
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L7 and 18" BTL mix.
the woofers have to be out of phase for isobaric to work.... otherwise you get no sound... isobaric isn't intended to increase output.... Isobaric would never work properly with two different woofers.... it's never a good idea to mix subwoofers... of course the woofers will play and if your adding more woofers(more surface area) on the same power-pending the ohm load- it'll get louder... doesn't mean it's a good thing.. doesn't mean it bad I suppose.. I just know I'd rather pop my trunk and see 2 of the same woofers instead of 12 different boxes with every woofer I could pull out of the closet... for reference.. I went to a show where a kid had 12 12's in his ford ltd.. he had 6 different amps, 8 different boxes and 8 different kinds of woofers... he did a whopping 138.8db... at that show I ran 2 cerwin vega hed 8's (off 3k) and did a 146.3... so who needs 12 miscellaneous 12's anyway? (*I ran the 8's to mess with my buddy running 2 15's he was only doing 47's with his 2 15's and 3k) Use your best woofer, build a good box and enjoy, sell off all the miscellaneous stuff...
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Power Bass Extreme Specs
I've still got a couple of those woofers lying around.. good little woofers... heck I use to burp one off 3k until I creased the cone..
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enclosure for 18" btl fully loaded
any progress?
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enclosure for 18" btl fully loaded
wow sorry man I haven't been oh here today. The 28 was a typo-shoulda been 48.. when I copied and pasted I didn't catch the typo use one of the extra's-{the sides that are too short}-- to double up under the sub (on the inside of the box-you'll have to cut 1.5" off the width. then you'll need two boards 48 long instead of 28.. sorry again.. can't believe I missed that typo... looking good though
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2 15's Setup 2400watts. updated
yep... the sealer primer works much better than the regular primer.. the regular seems to be absorbed more easily..
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2 15's Setup 2400watts. updated
I use a laquer based sealer primer-the type you'd use on a car prior to painting.. it doesn't get absorbed as easily and give a good surface to paint.
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enclosure for 18" btl fully loaded
no prob..
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enclosure for 18" btl fully loaded
yes the ports have sides... It's easier to assemble that way.. you can do away with them if you like and increase the port length... I put the port together first and assemble the rest of the box (excluding the bottom.) line the port up, glue/secure it, then put the bottom on.. that way you have the sides of the ports to anchor the port to the box... for me it's easier that way.. I somtimes build several a day so I have my own little methods to get them done quicker.