So I saw this while I was trying to add knowledge to my little brain and was curious as to how to figure how much power is going to each voice coil.. who can help me out??

The simple answer is that if each coil is the same resistance, then each coil will receive 1/4 of the power output from the amplifier.

Or did you want the math behind it?

That clipped/squared wave at it's peak is direct current.

No, it's not.

Nick: Have you managed to determine a higher (quicker?) rate of failure for a clipped signal operating at equivalent average power levels as a non-clipped signal? Obviously a heavily clipped signal of the same RMS voltage as a non-clipped signal is going to cause a driver to fail sooner (if you breach the thermal or mechanical thresholds) as the clipped signal will deliver significantly more power over time. But I've not yet seen a test that determined a quicker failure rate for a clipped signal vs a non-clipped signal at the same average power level.....and I've never personally had enough drivers on hand to intentionally blow stuff up just for shits and giggles

If you are getting significant roof flex your best option is bracing rather than damping.

As for rattles......it depends on what's rattling and why. If you are getting rattling from, for example, plastic panels vibrating against each other you would want to isolate them with foam.

So, really, we need more info about the problems you are trying to fix.

but thats the point: I break all of their stupid rules, and they are too busy thinking they are always right and hatin cuz I proved them wrong

The funniest part of all of this is that you think you've proven anybody wrong.

To each their own. But don't interpret anything you're doing as "proving" anything other than you don't understand how to consider good advice and constructive criticism when it's given.

I think the better question is why 25 hz? If music doesn't play it, why make it peak there? Is there a new pissing match I'm unaware of about who can peak at the most useless frequency?

Does it matters why he wants it to peak at a low freq? I don't know why you are ranting about it.

He just sets a goal and tries to get to it.

Some people think it's a failiure, i think it's a (expensive) lesson to learn

Sometimes some people don't know any better or don't think for themselves, and making them think can inspire their own thoughts, potentially making them realize how dumb of an idea it was.

It's been talked about at length with him. He wants it because he wants it. You can't argue reason with an unreasonable person, so we've all given up on that front.

First thing you need to realize is that everything is application specific.

They might be a decent sub for $140 for 2 drivers. But if the driver doesn't fit your application or goals, then it's a waste of money and the wrong purchase for you to make.

So no, it's not a simple question. No, it's not a simple answer. Yes, the details are important. No, we can't tell you whether or not they are worth your purchase as we don't know your application or goals. If you want to just randomly purchase equipment and hope they are a good fit for you, then stop asking us and just start purchasing equipment. If you want us to actually help you select the proper equipment for your application and goals, then please provide more information.

Despite the fact it might look like we're being jackasses.....the simple fact is that we are actually trying to help you, but you aren't giving us the necessary information to allow us to do that and when we ask for it, you come back with some nonsense.

im not buying them to use them im going to buy them to sell them for more money .if i was buying them to use them i would have told you guys more info on install

Now look at how much back-and-forth nonsense you would have saved everyone if you would have just followed everyone's advise and stated that from the beginning? How difficult was that to simply say? How hard would that have been to include in your original post? You made this way more difficult than it needed to be for no reason other than you didn't want to take the initial advice and give us more details about your intentions.

First thing you need to realize is that everything is application specific.

They might be a decent sub for $140 for 2 drivers. But if the driver doesn't fit your application or goals, then it's a waste of money and the wrong purchase for you to make.

So no, it's not a simple question. No, it's not a simple answer. Yes, the details are important. No, we can't tell you whether or not they are worth your purchase as we don't know your application or goals. If you want to just randomly purchase equipment and hope they are a good fit for you, then stop asking us and just start purchasing equipment. If you want us to actually help you select the proper equipment for your application and goals, then please provide more information.

Despite the fact it might look like we're being jackasses.....the simple fact is that we are actually trying to help you, but you aren't giving us the necessary information to allow us to do that and when we ask for it, you come back with some nonsense.

If you have the proper crossover ranges, I'd just run them active.

Were these installed in a boat? Why is everything so rusty and corroded?

Were any of the components actually bad, or are things just so corroded that you aren't getting good connections?

Those things probably aren't worth saving unless you put a lot of work into cleaning out all of the rust.

EDIT: And yeah, like Sean said you're missing an inductor not a capacitor.

Could also repair/upgrade those crossovers rather easily....

I was thinking that as well... I think I need to wait for a reply from edesign before I make a decision on that. I have one good crossover so I could purchase a similar capacitor and solder it in place... Any ideas on that part? Should I take some photos of it for you guys to look at?

Sorry, my reply was talking about the passive crossovers, not the crossovers on the amplifier.

As I said in my 1st reply......Pull the values off the components in the passive crossovers and post a couple pictures. They more than likely are pretty basic/standard crossovers. Shouldn't be too hard to figure them out.

I would guess the crossovers are probably pretty standard. If you can pull the values off of the components within the crossovers and get a picture of the crossovers, probably wouldn't be too difficult to figure out the xover point of the passives.

And yes, you could run them active from those two amplifiers as long as the amplifiers offered the necessary crossover ranges.

This question was recently asked. Please see thread HERE (click me)

Link doesn't work.

What sub are you using? What are your goals for the system?

Hard to know if it fits your application, if we don't know what your application is

Skin effect is also related to frequency. It's generally not a problem until well outside of the audio bandwidth.

Sell it all and start over.

If you give us a budget and goal, we can get you headed in the right direction. I don't know what your goals are, but I don't think you're really on your way to achieving that goal with your current production selections. As M5 said, none of that equipment will compliment each other in the manor that they should.

I completely am against splitting up the classified section. Bundled threads are always better.

Agreed. When I and many others unload equipment, we have a variety of items for sale at once. It'd drive me insane having to post, update and track 4 different threads in 4 different subforms because I have a variety of things for sale at once.

I haven't read past the 1st page, so I'm not sure if this has already been settled or not.

Agreed very true, not really ideal for a daily scenario.. I was just attempting to rationalize a reason for a daily scenario Brad

Some things have no rationalization

o and never stay with regulated amps! well i never would regulated is a joke in my opinion!

There are advantages and disadvantages to both. To call one better than the other, or to call one a joke is, well.......a joke.

The only way I would run 16v is if I was VERY serious about competition in the higher SPL classes. Then it's pretty much a necessity because you will get your ass spanked on a 12v system.

On a daily system that maybe goes to some shows, not even worth doing it IMO.

Or space issues as you can use smaller 16v batteries as the current draw will be much lower... It's something that takes a lot of planning.. And some know how.

By the time you factor in the increase in power as a result of bumping the voltage up to 16V, current draw would probably equal or exceed that of the same amplifier running at 13.8V-14.4V. Even excluding an increase in power, if we leave power constant the difference in current draw between 14.4V and 16V is going to be ~10%. And the increase in power would be 100% inaudible. Not worth the time or expense to try to do anything like this for a daily driver system. You're better off focusing on maintaining a proper "normal" voltage than trying to increase the voltage up to 16V+.

For competition it can make sense. For daily driver systems, it's complete waste.

i agree with u bassahaulic. some ppl will love them cause its "different", but i loved the look of the gen 2's with that big ol' ass they have

now on topic that sucks one fried on u and hope fi hooks u up

I hope so... I've spent plenty of $ with them to at least get a recone and some epoxy out of it....

Don't see why you'd expect a company to fix your screw up just because you've spent "plenty of $ " with them. If you cooked the coil, you cooked the coil. And that coil is cooked, whether you did it intentionally or unintentionally.

Admittedly running the amplifier at low voltage doesn't help your case either.

Fi might help you out, I wouldn't be surprised if they did just to be nice. But acting like you deserve it or something is owed to you is a jackass way of going about it. They don't owe you shit.

EDIT: Didn't see Nick's reply before I posted.

Really hard to help you without a DMM to check the coils and wiring.

If you don't have one you can borrow from someone and money is really that tight......go to Walmart and buy one. Use it for the day or two it takes to figure out what's going on....then return it (make sure you keep your receipt). I typically don't condone this type of behavior but it's going to be really hard to troubleshoot without one.

Nick of Stereo Integrity speaks well of the Alpine Type R slims and the 13TW5; the Alpine for output and the JL for SQ. In fact for output he suggests the Alpine over the BM. Take that for what it's worth.

Not sure if you saw the thread on DIYMA about the new Alpine Type-R's, but there was an Alpine engineer on there discussing them and I must say I was pretty impressed. They actually took some time to re-engineer them and did some important things like focusing on linearizing BL, etc. There was more info in there about the normal R's than the Slim's from what I recall, but if they put the same focus into the Slim line them I wouldn't be surprised if they were solid drivers as well.

link?

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum-technical-advanced/91741-alpine-utilizing-xbl.html

I'm a little confused.

Why do you want to run them sealed, when you're almost done making it a ported enclosure?

Don't worry about the preamp voltage.

Nick of Stereo Integrity speaks well of the Alpine Type R slims and the 13TW5; the Alpine for output and the JL for SQ. In fact for output he suggests the Alpine over the BM. Take that for what it's worth.

Not sure if you saw the thread on DIYMA about the new Alpine Type-R's, but there was an Alpine engineer on there discussing them and I must say I was pretty impressed. It appears they actually spent some time on quality re-engineering them and did some important things like focusing on linearizing BL, etc. There was more info in there about the normal R's than the Slim's from what I recall, but if they put the same focus into the Slim line them I wouldn't be surprised if they were solid drivers as well.