Impious

The main speakers are places like I would do with normal left and right. It sounds good. But then the subwoofer moves the image with not playing only low frequencies. It's a 4ohm, very cheap shit but gets the job done. It doesn't matter where they are sitting. If they are both connected to only the right channel, then you only have the right channel playing......which is not stereo sound, which means your imaging is going to be nonexisent by default as "imaging" requires more than one source signal (i.e. left and right). The simple solution here is to buy a plate amp or another amplifier to power your subwoofer. It may not be what you want to do, but it is what you need to do. And if you think stereo source material being played through only the right channel still "sounds good".....I think you need a major correction to your definition of what "sounds good".

Wait.....so, you have both main speakers on only the right channel, your subwoofer on the left channel......and are complaining about the subwoofer messing up the imaging? What subwoofer are you using?

Just an FYI, those are good midrange speakers but they are strictly midrange speakers. They have .5mm excursion.....they won't do anything in the midbass.....and by anything, I mean anything. They would have to be used with dedicated midbass speakers. But in a high efficiency 3-way setup.....yeah, those are great speakers. As for the OP.....you may not like the way Sean provides the information.....but nothing he has said is wrong. The ultimate solution to your problem would be a good set of high output large diameter mids and a pair of good HLCD. I don't know why those shitty "bullet tweeters" have caught on with the SPL crowd, but that is the worst implementation ever. All their widespread use proves is that SPL'ers have a loud stereo but don't really understand the first thing about acoustics in general. You'll end up toasting a pair of normal dome tweeters. Hell, really, those 4 mids you have now would probably do you fine with a set of good HLCD for reaching your goals.

What type of EQ features do you need? What are you trying to fix? Do you want/need parametric or graphic? How many bands and what center frequencies? EQ is a very general and generic term. Not all EQ's are created equal. You need an EQ that will fit your needs and goals, which is more specific than just asking for an "EQ".

Wasn't as cold as I'd feared....got the 2nd layer on the driver's side. No pics today.....since it looks exactly the same, just a little thicker Probably throw 1 more layer on the larger areas Thu or Fri for a little extra strength then call it good!

Yup, it's an Oldsmobile. They'll be ran passive through the winter because I'm lazy and don't want to run more speaker wire You don't want to learn the art of fiberglassing from me

Thanks for the kind words I must say, I was a little worried about how the shaping would turn out with having the three speaker rings and oddly shaped mold to contend with. But with G'Don's help wrapping them, they really turned out pretty smooth. The couple trouble areas we did have smoothed out well with the layers.

Pics, because it did happen.

So, build logs aren't really my thing. For one, my fabrication skills are easily bested by a monkey on narcotics. Second, I simply don't have the patience to stop and take pictures when I'm in the middle of doing something. But, a couple people have asked so......here it is. My attempt at building kickpanels to house the CS603CF comp set. Thank you to audiolife for lending his ears while playing with the aiming, and GrampaDon for lending a hand at wrapping the kicks. Onward to the pictures I suppose. First pictures are of the basic molds for the kickpanels. My vehicle happens to have an opening in each kickpanel location that vents into the fender area, so I fashioned a hole into the molds for both kickpanels so that the midbass will see an infinite baffle alignment. The molds also have kind of an odd shape at the top because they were originally trimmed to fit around my horns. Wish I hadn't done that now that I'm not using the horns as I could have used a little extra height to work with...but I was not going to make new molds, so I rolled with it. The speaker baffles, which look a little like Mickey Mouse. Plunge router with circle jig FTMFW. First time I've countersunk with it (the midrange & tweeter baffles)....turned out pretty well IMO. The comp set in their soon-to-be home. Kickpanels in the kicks showing the aiming. I spent several hours spread over several weekend afternoons working on aiming. I felt this positioning did the best. I think the aiming might be a smidge different now as I originally didn't have quite enough clearance for the rear of the midbass with my initial aiming, and I can't remember when I took these pictures. But the aiming is pretty much the same, regardless. And the kickpanels how they currently sit. I trimmed the shape some compared to the above pictures. It's starting to get a bit chilly up here, so I've been using a heat lamp and antique heater (that I'm honestly surprised works, and hasn't caught fire yet) to aid the curing process. The passenger side kick (right) has 2 layers of 'glass and the drivers side has 1 layer. I'd planned to put another layer on the passenger side tonight but got home from work late. The temperature is dropping the next couple days, not sure if I'll get anymore 'glass laid down again until Friday/Saturday. But my goal right now is to atleast get them functional this weekend. Bondo/sanding/finishing them off may end up waiting until spring depending on how the weather goes. If they start playing music before winter.....that's good enough for me. And just for shits and giggles.....my ("son's") snake that I bought a few weeks ago He named it Joe Cool......

Boobs.

Just to show you how out of the loop I am.....why is it a big deal that you posted the URL?

What is the actual URL?

What in the hell are are you guys talking about?

Gettin' close Drivers kick has 2 layers of 'glass laid down, passenger side has one layer of 'glass with hopes of adding the 2nd layer tomorrow. Have I mentioned before that I hate fiberglassing?

Some funny shit going on there.

Probably because you are controlling a 2500lbs missile traveling at 88 feet per second with hundreds of innocent bystanders surrounding you. Hence the reason it's illegal in many municipalities to have an active video monitor in view of the driver while the vehicle is in motion. Also the reason most manufacturers have a safety feature requiring the vehicle be in park or the e-brake engaged for the monitor to display videos.

Twice as loud = 10dB increase (as far as I know) Twice the power = 3dB increase Hearing threshold = ~1dB 3db is actually twice the acoustic power, which is technically "twice as loud". Human hearing is just very insensitive, so it takes a 6db-10db difference (depending on frequency, etc) for our ears to recognize it as being double the volume or twice as loud.

The weather up here really sucks ass, doesn't it? I hate seeing build logs in the dead of winter from the bastards living down south who are still enjoying 60* days while I'm out shoveling snow. Anyways.....I vote now! Last time I put my stereo off until spring, I spent the entire winter kicking myself in the ass.

All you'll need for the tweeter location is a free afternoon, some velcro and a beer Just make sure you don't xover the tweeters too low.....or tweeters go poof. Also if going active, it can be beneficial to put a cap with a low xover frequency in line with the tweeter to save from possible damage as a result of turn on/off pop or other mishaps.

I'd say that sounds like a pretty good plan. Get your feet a little wet on this side of things with a simple active setup, then progress from there. Imaging won't be great from the doors without TA and such, but with good speaker selection it should still blow stock out of the water. Is this going in that S10 you had or are you rocking a different daily driver now?

I have never seen a single review that actually demonstrated the SAZ1500 (or any other Sundown amp) is underrated. If there is one, I'd be interested in seeing it. That said; That amplifier would still be a good match for your subwoofers (assuming your Q's are D1). The difference between 1500w and 2000w would be completely inaudible, so don't worry about it.

Someone should tell that to all of those dipole crazies.

What are you trying to "fix" that you want the bass/treble controls? Or was it just curiosity of why they weren't there? Helpful hint when dealing w/ EQ's: They should primarily be used to cut bands, not boost bands. And boosting an EQ band can potentially introduce clipping. For example, if you turn 63hz up by 3db, it will require the amplifier now output 2x the power at 63hz.

ahh ok, thats good to know, i am currently using a distribution block that goes from my knu 1/0 to 4 gauge, but thats cause my amp right now is only an AQ1200D, i plan on just running the 1/0 straight to the amp when i get a bigger amp and then run a 4 gauge run to my mids/highs amp. right now my main power fuse is 300 amps, so if i decide to go with the AQ2200D i should get a 200A fuse for it? Yes, you would want to use the fuse size recommended by AQ or Sundown in the main power line fuse holder. One fuse located as close to the battery as possible is all that is needed in his situation.

It really depends on what level of sound quality you are trying to achieve. If you're just trying to go for clean 'n clear sound without concern for imaging/staging/etc, a simple quality comp setup in the doors ran passive would more than suffice. Really no need for all of the custom speaker locations and multiple amplifiers in that type of setup. It would certainly be a nice upgrade over stock in performance without breaking the bank or taking half a decade to install, setup and tune. If you are looking for something that not only sounds "clean" but also stages and images well......then you're going to need the more advanced processing if you plan to use midrange and midbass speakers that A-pillar/door mounted as you'll need, at minimum, time alignment. Or you can get fancy with kickpanels to equalize pathlengths, etc. And really, if you want to go the full-out SQ with active crossovers, major EQ work and time alignment and you aren't very familiar with the inner-workings of a "true" SQ setup.....you'd better have someone there who can help you in person get everything setup and tuned properly, or you'll end up with pretty bad results. Despite the e-popularity, these types of systems are pretty difficult to setup with good results, and a 3-way frontstage of that caliber would be a nightmare for a SQ novice to tackle on their own. So really, first you need to decide how hardcore you want to get with it