Impious

What type of listening levels does this occur at? Are you rockin' out when the problems happen, or "normal" listening levels? Do they sound strained when you're listening to them or does the problem seem to just "appear"? What amplifier are you using? Are any EQ bands around or under the crossover frequency boosted? That tweeter should be okay with a 2500hz crossover point w/ 12db slope, so I wouldn't think that's the problem unless you are simply overpowering them. My initial guess would be that it's an amplifier problem if the EQ use is under control and it's happening at reasonable listening levels without sounding strained. Are the terminals of the tweeters mounted near any metal that they could possibly be touching and shorting out against?

You would just need to be able to apply time delay to the left side midbass drivers, not between the individual midbass drivers (if you were going with 4 mids total). IIRC you were going to go with an H701? If so, it would handle the task with ease. I'm not overly familiar with that H100, but if it is a 3-way crossover with time alignment (highpass for horns, bandpass for mids and lowpass for subs) then it will be able to handle the task aswell. Yes, they are 8ohm. But if you are using two per side, wire them in parallel for a final 4ohm load to the amp per channel.

Too small of a distance for actual cancellation to occur. But as others have mentioned, leave enough room as to not adversely affect sub/port loading.

Just a crazy idea to throw out there; DIYCable.com : Intro » Home » Exodus Subwoofers » That driver with 12mm Xmax has the same displacement (and hence, output potential) as an 8" driver with 7mm Xmax and does it with clean extension well above your intended bandwidth. The downside is the lower efficiency. If you wanted to get nutty, have time alignment and large door panels....you could run two of them per door (I'm assuming two 7" drivers won't fit in your kicks) for basically the same cost as one of those 18 Sound drivers. The parameters allow for pretty good low frequency extension IB. And since you are mating with horns at a relatively low crossover frequency you won't run into problems with destructive interference between the drivers in the midrange, they would effectively "act" as a single driver throughout your entire intended bandwidth. That should have the makings of a midbass monster while maintaining accurate midrange reproduction.....imaging will only be good from the drivers seat, but that's the compromise. Also dependent on how much power you can throw at them. I have a few of those drivers laying around to test out aswell

This B&C driver is well liked; Parts-Express.com:

It depends on the specific scenario. If you double your cone area and double your power (i.e. adding the 2nd sub decreases the load on the amplifier from 2ohm to 1ohm and as a result power output doubles) then the theoretical gain would be 6db. If you double your cone area but power stays the same (such as would possibly happen on a JL amp with regulated outputs) then the theoretical gain would be 3db. If you double your cone area but power halves (i.e. adding the 2nd sub increases the load on the amplifier from 1ohm to 2ohm and as a result power output halves) then theoretically there would be no gain.

I've never really understood why kids from the suburbs and small towns (etc) want to drive around listening to some guy rap about "fuckin' hoes, slangin' rock and Benjamins" when it has zero relevance to their life other than they feel cool if they play it really loud in their car with their hat turned sideways and lean to one side. That is all.

Instead of wasting time using letters to describe the shape you think the port should be, how about you tell us the actual dimensions of your enclosure and the dimension of the port? That way we can calculate the actual enclosure volume and tuning of your enclosure. Seems a little more productive, don't you think?

Helpful hint for the future. Adding the tag "IMO" behind a false statement doesn't make the preceding statement any less false The world is flat, IMO The Sun orbits the Earth, IMO Grass is the color fuchsia, IMO Class A/B amps are cleaner than class D amps, IMO See what I mean?

Need to know your budget along with more details of current equipment, installation locations and system setting (crossover points/etc).

Probably because it is Alex Grey's work It's a painting title "Despair". I stole the image from his website, cropped and resized it into an avatar.

Do you or will you have any processing available beyond what the SAX offers?

A line driver or gain adjustment is not the solution to your problem. The solution is to identify the source of the noise, and solve that problem. Please read the sticky on how to troubleshoot noise issues located HERE If your issue is related to grounds, for example, then a line driver may actually compound the issue rather than "solve" anything.

Installing it near the amp partially defeats the purpose. Ideally the higher signal voltage increases the signal to noise ratio of the signal transfer. The noise being induced into your system is independent of the voltage of the signal. It will stay the same regardless. So as you increase the voltage of the signal the level of the noise will be smaller in proportion to the signal, which increases the signal to noise ratio. If you place it near the amp, then the signal traveling the farthest (and typically noisiest) distance is the "original" voltage level from your headunit, and you aren't increasing the signal voltage until after the noise has already entered the signal (which means the voltage level of the noise will also be increased since it's now part of the signal at this point). The RF-BLD also features balanced differential outputs which aids in noise reduction. Again, if you are using this feature then having the unit placed near the amp would defeat the purpose. You would want this placed on the source side of the signal transfer so that any noise induced during the signal transfer is able to be handled by the balanced system. If you put the system in the trunk, then the signal entering the unit already has the noise included with the signal. Putting the unit in the trunk would be a little like putting a condom on after you've had sex. That said.....why do you think you need one?

Still in need of an amp? I have a brand new in box JBL GTO 1201.1II, rated 1114w @ 2ohm. $175 ? I live a couple hours north of Indy.

Minihorns do not extend as low in frequency as the full size horns. Typically the mini's are only good down to 1100-1200hz, which is still low enough to match a good 8" driver to for a stout 2way while offering you the increased efficiency for high output. You would not want to mount them on top of the dash. If you did some checking around on ID's forum, you should be able to find some info on how well Mini's would fit in your body style of vehicle.

You put waaayyyy too much emphasis on competition. I read a joke (I think it was a joke?) once about two world renowned poets in heaven arguing about which of them was the best poet who had ever lived. God intervened by explaining that neither of them was the best poet that had ever lived....the best poet that ever lived was a man no one had ever heard of, who kept every poem he had ever written hid in a chest at the foot of his bed. The moral of the story relates here.....

Given your goal, I would also suggest horns with a solid 8" midbass.

With an EBP of 157, I don't know any program worth using that would suggest a sealed enclosure. If there is a program that suggests sealed w/ a Qts of .2 and an Fs of 34hz....stop using that program.

This is a thread to vent about the little things in life that make you scratch your head or drive you crazy. For example.....why do Pizza Rolls only provide directions for making 6 pizza rolls in the microwave, but sell them in quantities that are not evenly divisible by 6 so that you always end up with some left over? We have a box that says quantity 15, then directions for cooking 6 at at time.....no one got the bright idea to just put another 3 in the box?

LOL....I couldn't remember the anatomical term, and was too lazy to look it up. Thank you for the correction

Not true.

Given the Q has significantly more linear excursion capabilities than a Type R, a 12" or 15" sealed Q shouldn't have a problem surpassing the Type R sealed in output capabilities. A 12" Q ported would blow it out of the water.

LOL......Hey now, my degree is in Accounting ! Sorry for the sidetracking Randal. Good luck with the rebuild. Who's ears did your borrow for the evening.....or should I say who borrowed your whiskey for the evening ?

When my wife & I were on our honeymoon a few years ago, the resort had a hardcore porn channel that was free. I found it by accident channel surfing (seriously). Anyways, the porno flick that happened to be playing at the time was a knock off of Dukes of Hazard. The acting was horrible, but it had a decent plot After watching Daisy give Uncle Jesse head while getting banged from behind by Luke, I can't watch the original series without cringing and getting excited in the pants all at the same time.