Impious

Well, today I was driving down the road with the stereo playing at my typical volume when all of a sudden all the lights on my dash (digital readouts) shut off for a split second, then come back on. At the exact same time this happens, my stereo drops in volume by a good 10-15db and gets extremely distorted. It basically sounded like my subs cut off, mids stopped playing and tweets got extremely distorted and dropped in volume. This only lasted 1 second at most, but immediately after it happened my car started having major voltage drop when the bass hit (mind you, I've never even had my lights dim with this setup). I don't have a voltmeter in my car, so I don't know exactly *how much* it drops.....but when the voltage drops low enough that it shuts down the CD player you know it's not good Anyways....so I shut down the sub for the rest of my trip (5 more miles), get to my destination and am in there for about 10 minutes. Come back out and everything seems fine after a few miles of heavy play again, voltage drop appears to be gone as I have no more light dimming on my dash digital readouts. Then, about 5 miles from work my voltage suddenly drops so low that it almost stalls my car (I had no light dimming, etc previous to this on my trip back to work....all appeared well). And now it's having major voltage problems......pressing the brake peddle causes the lights to dim, and operating two power windows at the same time causes the voltage to drop low enough it shuts down the CD player. Not only this, but I now also have very, very audible alternator whine Any ideas WTF is going on? My only thought is that there is a problem internally in my alt which caused AC rippling, etc, which wreaked havoc on my electrical system and stereo equipment.

If you are running active out of your headunit, then whatever EQ you use would have to have one input for each output from your headunit (for example; 3-way active out of headunit, EQ would need atleast 6 input channels). Only EQ's I know of that have that ability is some of the audiocontrol pieces.

Eclipse 8053

Simply liked it better. Performance was just as good in terms of deadening. Raammat was just as easy to apply. And the Raammat's aluminum layer didn't tear/rip nearly as easily as the Damplifier's did. The Damplifier's aluminum backing tears and rips extremely easily, Raammat's doesn't. Every time I tried to get the Damplifier into a creavace(sp?) or odd bend the damned aluminum backing would rip and tear. Never had that problem with Raammat. Then factor in that it costs less, and it's really a no-brainer.

You do not need one per speaker. They are mono EQ's, so you need one per side (i.e. one for the left side, one for the right side), but you do not need one per speaker. ID has a nice xover that will work with them aswell.....but they are fairly pricey for all three pieces (two EQ's and one xover). That DQX will work.....but from reading the manual it doesn't look extremely flexible, as it appears you can not overlap or underlap crossover frequencies. Or you could buy a headunit with all of the processing you'd need....such as the Eclipse 8053 (can be had for under $300 shipped if you look in the right places), Pioneer Premier 860MP, etc etc How much are you looking to spend on processing?

LOL.....anyone interested in sound quality has stopped using rear fill ?? I'm a little confused here.....but if you're saying what I think you're saying, that's way too many speakers. Just do one set of components in front and you are done.

If you are talking about the mids Feandil and Ology are doint; Those aren't "Adire" speakers....those are "Ology Audio" speakers being built by Adire (same as Soundsplinter Subwoofers being built by TC Sounds). You are probably going to end up doing separate EQ and active crossover for the horns. You'll want the crossover to be capable of 24db/oct, and you will want a lot of EQ ability. If you want an all-in-one unit, something like the Audiocontrol DQX would work great if the xover points work. For mids.....2ohms are decently rare. RE XXX6.5, Image Dynamics CX62, if you can find Image Dynamics IDQ8 in dual 4ohm.

I've used Raammat and SecondSkin Damplifier.....and frankly, I really liked the Raammat better. www.raamaudio.com Best value mat on the market, IMHO (and I was saying this prior to the sound deadener showdown, thank you very much ). And Rick (the owner) is a great, great guy. One of the best in the industry.

Fmods ??

Well, I guess I'll just play around with it then Try it a few different ways.

But did you put the wire before or after the passive? That was basically what I was getting at. "Regular" wire to the passive, then the Omni after it. Or Omni to the passive, and "regular" wire after it.

Received the wire today, along with some surprisingly accurate personal references noted on the demo ring address page So, I haven't read a lot of the threads regarding this (mainly wanted to avoid reading any previous reviews of the wire, as to avoid influencing my own observations)......but what would one suggest to do with the wire for running a passive setup? Would the supposed "differences" still be there if I ran this wire from the amp to the passive, then "regular" wire from the passive to the speakers? Want to be sure I'm giving this wire a fair shot, I guess.

Well, thanks guys. We'll see what comes of it. Deciding between attempting it myself, or having a respected member of another forum build one for me for $20. I'm leaning towards the latter.

Well, that was sort of one of my questions. Since the voltage will swing from ~13.8V (car on) to 12V (car off), I'd assume that would complicate the design some.

Nope. I'll post the voltage regulator design asap. Can you find me the current draw? You will need a LM7806 3-pin regulator forsure, other parts depend on the current draw. According to PE tech support, both the unit and included PS say 250mA on them. PS: PE tech support rocks. They didn't have that in the notes, so he ran back and pulled one off the shelf to check for me. Two thumbs up

Alright all you smart folk, here's what I am wanting: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=180-960 I want to be able to run that directly off of my car's electrical system. You can see from the description that it runs off of 6VDC from the included power supply. So, what would be needed is a power supply to convert the 12VDC from my electrical system to 6VDC. I've also had something about Zener Diodes mentioned to me....but I'm not really sure what those are all about. Anybody want to give me a quick run down of the best way to go, and how each is accomplished (i.e. what a simple yet effective PS design would consist of, what Zener diodes do and if they would be an effective and simple fix in my situation, approximate cost, etc). Thanks

Well, Rl-s has minimally more excursion, so it has the ability to have slightly more output. Sound quality.....well, I know someone who listened to the Rl-s that I had for demo, and liked it more than any XXX he'd ever heard (which he's heard around 15 or so). Downfall is the Rl-s needs a larger enclosure.

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11 Good choice

I voted for you

Would love to snatch up a Kronos.....but I honestly have my reservations that the preorder quantities will be met

http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showthread....18&pagenumber=1 (for those too lazy to click the link) Boys, Zed just informed me that he needs 50 buyers for each amps and the production will take place. Price for Kronos: $700 Price for Leviathan: $1200 Deposit: $350 and $600 respectively. Who's in? http://zedaudio.com/Products/New-Amplifiers.htm KRONOS: This is a 175w x 4 at 4 ohms or 350w x 4 at 2 ohms four channel amplifier. It has identical front panel features as Draconia. There are pairs of switches added to the rear panel which allow the pairs of channels to be switched into a high current mode. This will change the above specifications to 2 and 1 ohm respectively. The chassis will be 700mm (27.55

PM sent

I'm down for this aswell. Will PM you my addy. Intriguing challenge you have proposed here.