Impious

Any frequency where the wavelength is longer than the diameter of the cone is omnidirectional. So yes, midbass will be omnidirectional for any 6.5" or 8" driver. However, being omnidirectional, which means the sound is radiated from the driver equally in all directions, does not mean driver placement no longer matters. Aiming of the driver doesn't matter when the sound is omnidirectional, but midbass is still stereo and contains "left" and "right" information. So for proper imaging speaker placement is still very important and you still want to have the drivers located as wide as possible in the vehicle. Placing midbass under seats or in the middle of the vehicle is terrible placement for midbass and will ruin the imaging and soundstaging by significantly narrowing or eliminating the "left" and "right" imaging and staging ques at those frequencies. Moral of the story is that your plan won't work properly. Don't do it.

And 99% of those "custom subs" are cobbled together pieces of shit with zero engineer behind their design. It's one of many ridiculous fads in car audio right now.Get some CA glue and glue the surround back down. If you want a different sub, purchase a new original driver and don't try to "beef up" yours.

Leave subs off and try flipping one mid, then wire it back in proper polarity and reverse the other mid. An RTA would be monumentally helpful as well.

Thanks for the tips on harbor freight. Didn't even think to look there. Had a sale on power inverters, 750w continuous for $40. Only problem now is the cables are 2 foot long.....need them to be about 8'. So next job is to lengthen them. Thought about a small class T from PE to power some speakers from a phone or media player like you had sort of suggested Sean but needed to keep this as dummy proof as possible so I don't have to do it every year.

Are all of the subs and speakers playing when you are testing? If so I'd suggest you try flipping the phase of the sub, see what happens.

It probably has more to do with changes in your hearing at high SPL or more rattles and resonances in the vehicle.

That's a lot more voltage than I expected. Might not work too bad. I really didn't want to have to hard wire anything to this guy's truck, but I don't think there's any way around it. Although temporarily hooking an amp to the electrical wouldn't be terrible although still a pain in the ass considering I have limited access to it and it's a GM so it probably has side posts on the battery...I had thought about using a long set of jumper cables to power the amp so that I wouldn't have to change battery terminals but a little worried they would rattle loose. Good thought, but would be way too much money to rent anything.....and I don't have a home stereo

We'll with only one week until the parade my sister has asked me to figure out a way for them to play music for their float In the parade. My main problem is the truck towing the float isn't mine, so I can't take apart, change or modify anything on the vehicle. Second problem is this needs to be done for as close to free as possible. First thought is a power inverter to power one of their boom boxes and just bungy cord it all to the bed of the truck. Issue here is the power inverters with enough current aren't cheap, hard to source locally and I'm not a big fan of having to directly wire it to the truck's battery. I do have two old Kinetik HC1800s in my garage.....they would crap out in cold weather but we're otherwise fine. I thought about charging them up, wiring them in parallel and seeing if they held enough of a charge to power the inverter for the length of the parade. Radio shack has a 400w inverter which "might" be enough, and I "might" be able to return it after the parade so it wouldn't end up costing anything. Also thought about using one of my spare amps to power the speakers from the boom boxes and using my sisters phone as the source.....but I'm not sure how much volume I would get with the weak preamp voltage of the phone. It would however be much cheaper. Any other ideas? I've never actually done a temp stereo for a parade before, and it would be much easier to do to my own vehicle rather than some else's that I can't fuck with

Keep in mind it's all realistically an approximation of real world performance. It is very difficult to accurately model real world large signal performance due to the number of variables. The above quote doesn't specify exactly how the large signal parameters are defined (I.e. what power, heat, or linear limits are at the point of parameter definition). The large signal analysis above could be a "snap shot" of the driver's parameters at a particular point along it's performance or power curve. If more or less power is applied then the parameter shift from small signal will be different. Based on the same Re on both measurements it doesn't appear significant coil heating is taken into account.....as the coils heats up due to the power being applied Re will increase which will increase Qes....so there's another source of potential difference from the large signal parameters above. This is why small signal parameters are used.....they are a linear measurement, and modeling works best when things are linear. When things become non-linear it becomes very hairy very quickly. That said Q and Klippel are correct, small signal isn't 100% "real world" and large signal analysis is a closer approximation, albeit with it's own set of problems.

Rooms have "cabin gain" (in this case it's called room gain) the same as a car....albeit not as extreme in amplitude and not over such a wide bandwidth.....it's more low frequency oriented. But moral of the story is that just like with a car, flat anechoic (I.e. WInISD) is not flat in a room. There is a reason EBS alignments are very popular, which is about what you have there with pink graph.

That's my problem.....I don't know what force I need to be able to hold up the trunk lid but isn't so strong that closing the trunk is difficult or that whips the trunk open.Clearly 2x 60lb gas spring wasn't enough. I could easily step to 2x 120lb or anywhere in between, but I want to get "enough" with going overboard on force and have it so strong my wife can't close the trunk.

https://myspace.com/audibelcustoms/video/72-lemons/27297044 First....what the hell, who uses myspace these days? Second...totally not going the automated route....LOL. Just want to pick a gas spring strong enough that holds the truck open without lifting the rear tires off the ground when it flips open.

So I tried replacing my trunk torsion bars with gas struts. All went well, but the struts (60lb force, 2 of them) are clearly not strong enough. Picking that force was just a guess based on some Internet searching. I couldn't find anything to actually tell me the force I would need for my particular trunk (94 Roadmaster). Any ideas?

Must admit I'm not too surprised that, like many other "pro audio" drivers produced by car audio companies and marketed specifically at car audio.....these things have very little connection with true pro audio drivers outside of appearance. Parameters are very far from true "pro audio".

Bummer, you have to be confused completely. That site is full of bullshit. Sorry Rofl. I see what you did there. Actually, I'm learning quite a bit and I honestly appreciate it. I don't plan on running any competitions or having a big dick contest, I just find value in promoting a brand such as Fi, regardless of the made in America part. I still enjoy the market and I think more people can benefit from the knowledge on this forum and from the workers at Fi like Nick, who takes the time to respond to customer inquires, no matter how juvenile the question.I moved my amp today, drilled it into the back of my fold down back seat so I can easily adjust the gain and monitor it's temps. It was hot, but not hot enough to burn me or make me pull my hand away. I need to get familiar with my equipment so I know what is acceptable heat wise. It should get better ambient cooling being in the cabin now as well. I have not yet adjusted the gain. I think I'm going to play my deepest bass song, adjust at my preferred listening volume and monitor temps over a few hours to see where I'm at. I've used this method on tens of subs before the DD-1 and only ever blew a pair of Visonik's back when I was 15. My last question, my head unit has 2 subwoofer options. One appears to be the general subwoofer level, which is +6. And then there's another subwoofer option in another setting where I have it at +6 as well. Should I just make both of these 0 and adjust gain only? Does the EQ crossover options such as vocal or xplod affect the woofer? One of the frequencies in the curve is 65Hz or so, but is that only for the mids/highs? Thanks again everyone. Zero everything. No bass boost, do not EQ to the + side, always attenuate (dial the EQ down).You claimed you were clipping the HU at 47 out of 50 and you have the sub outs dialed to +6? Bullshit. Not bullshit on you, but it is proof that the DD1 is a complete pile of shit. Not only that, but there is no way in hell an Xplod unit is clean to 94% of it's total output at 0... no way in hell. How is that proof that the dd-1 is shit? All having the sub level up on the ead unit is going to do is cause the amps gain to be set lower.My guess would be that his point was with a +6 setting the preamp output would reach it's limit earlier in the volume range than with a lower level setting, which is entirely true....that's why it's louder, it outputs higher voltage for a given volume setting, hence it's louder at a given volume setting.My only problem with the assumption is it all depends on how the circuit was designed. For example on the older Alpine units the sub level was labeled 0 to +15, but in reality the "+15" setting was actually just the full output and not an actual boost, or in other words it was actually the 0db setting. So although it was labeled 0 thru +15, it actually functioned as -15 to 0. So one would not expect an unreasonable amount of clipping with a high level setting, which is counterintuitive. Without knowing the actual function of the circuit in relation to the settings, it's hard to pass judgment.

Do you really need to be able to roll down your windows? Gotta be able to holla at bitches, yo

Had my stereo all planned out in my head for a year.....start working on it this week and my damn midbass aren't going to fit in my door like I'd hoped. Window regulator motor is completely in the way. Fuck.

Where did you get 210 from? If you are using your subwoofer as the furthest speaker, then you would leave the time delay for that set to zero. You would then set the TA for the rest of the speakers to the difference in their distance from you compared to the subwoofer. For example, you would set the time delay for the LF to 27, the RF to 50, so on and so forth.

I'll comment on this one particular statement then drop the subject per Flatline's request just to briefly explain why this isn't a personal attack against them compared to the other manufacturer. Yes, it is different and yes it does promote ignorance when a statement such as "Here is our proof these amps are underrated" is made regarding those tests. The context is completely different than the other manufacturer. If you don't understand this, then you are part of the problem.

You are arguing religion. Is the world flat just because everyone thought it was? Is the Earth the center of the solar system just because everyone thought it was? Is clamp testing an accurate measurement method just because a lot of people do it? We don't have a lot of clamp test results on this forum, outside of a couple manufacturer forums that I'm aware of. Maybe it's because our core member base understands the limitations and inaccuracies involved in the procedure and therefore don't waste their time. Why they are so popular on other forums is probably a case of the blind leading the blind. Just because someone performs a "test" of some sort, doesn't mean the test or results are meaningful. This seems to be lost on many people. I have less of a problem with clamp tests (aside from their uselessness) than I do the conclusions people draw from them. A prime example is Flatline using them to demonstrate that their amplifier's are "underrated". The tests weren't performed in a manor to validate that claim. Had Flatline not made that particular statement, I wouldn't have commented in this thread. Whether or not he is new to the forum is completely irrelevant. We do have one manufacturer here who has posted a lot of clamp tests, and I've not busted his balls about it because he has always carefully chosen his words. To my knowledge, on this forum, he has never used them as evidence that his amplifiers are underrated. He'll say something along the lines of "Based on these tests we're comfortable with the design". Ok, that's fine. He's not implying they are anything more than an inaccurate estimate. But he's never said, that I've seen on this forum, anything implying the results are proof they are underrated or that they even meet rated power. Just that he's happy with the results. And that's fine. I have however busted the balls of people who later misinterpret the results of the tests. Since you want to play the "but everyone does it so it must be right" card......how many professionals in the industry use only a clamp meter & DMM to measure actual power output? I've seen a lot of magazine reviews done by professionals in the industry (both car and home), and have never seen one of them use only a clamp meter & DMM to measure power. Do the buildhouses use nothing but a clamp meter & DMM to verify their designs? Do the real manufacturers in the industry (not the rebadgers) use only a clamp meter & DMM to verify their designs? If clamp tests are so valid, why is it only the amateurs do them? Why do the professionals spend thousands to tens of thousands on equipment if a clamp, DMM and pocket o-scope will do the exact same thing for a couple hundred?

Meh, another company bringing nothing new or filling any niche in the market.....just bringing more rebadged product to the market from overseas. Doesn't seem to really know or understand anything about his product beyond what the build house told him. Pulled a Kevin with his "these are underrated" nonsense when they've never been tested as such. Sure, seems like a nice guy and I can appreciate his enthusiasm. But naive and really no need to be in the market. I'm just old and crabby, but really the market is so flooded with these types of companies that I see little to be impressed with in any of them. It takes nothing but capital to order product from Asia. No knowledge, no defined niche to fill, no product differentiation. Just money and the ability to order from a menu.

I don't know anything about the 9887. How is the TA set in the HU? Distance or time?

It depends on how tightly or loosely the power supply is regulated. Is this for competition or daily driving?

you can clip inputs just the same as you can outputs. Keep that in mind when running and reviewing the results of your test.

There are only 3 situations in which a line driver is needed. 1) When you are using a very low preamp voltage source (such as an MP3 player) and it's output is below the level necessary to drive the amplifier to the necessary power levels. Almost any headunit on the market will have sufficient output voltage to drive almost any amp on the market to full power output. 2) When you have unavoidable noise induced into the system during signal transmission and you need to boost the signal to increase your signal to noise ratio (this will be very rare) 3) When you have a low voltage headunit and the amps makes an unacceptable amount of thermal noise with the high gain setting (though this is more a fault of the amplifier than the signal voltage level) That said, line driver is sometimes a generic term and a product that features a line driver will something also offer other useful features such as equalization. But that's a different situation entirely. My comments above were specifically in regards to the line driver feature.