Impious

I assume your enclosure size is fixed due to space restrictions or an unwillingness to build a new enclosure? If that is the case, then it's a fairly simple matter to estimate performance in any enclosure modeling program that shows excursion for a given power level in the specific enclosure size you intend to use. That will tell you if the subwoofer is going to be overdriven. If not, then the easiest solution is to design a new enclosure.

While I agree there are some things purchasers in preorders have to deal with, such as the ETA being pushed back some due to customs or raw material outages, I think being given an initial ETA and then being told that there is an indefinite time frame for delivery is way outside of acceptable. We only have 1 side of the story right now, so it's tough to say.....but if they are waiting "indefinitely" for the price of Neo to drop back down to where they are happy with the profit margin then that is complete and total bullshit. They ran the preorder knowing the price of raw materials may change, they are liable to honor that preorder with a reasonable time of delivery regardless of whether or not they lose their ass on the deal due to the cost of materials rising. According to the OP it's not that they don't have access to Neo due to a lack of materials....they simply don't want to pay for it because it's too expensive and they'll either not make enough money or lose money. That's not acceptable. Build the subs you agreed and were paid to build. If that means you lose money because you made a bad business decision, then tough shit. Build the fucking subs.

Sounds like you were simply overdriving the sub. Could have been improper gain adjustment or something else set incorrectly (bass boost, etc) You *could* change the subwoofer to something that would mechanically handle the power better in that specific enclosure, but if you are otherwise happy with the subwoofer then I don't see the point. Set everything to a level where the subwoofer isn't being overdriven and be happy.

I'll be damned Stefan, that worked. Back up and running. So, what exactly does that mean?

Also if it is a mobo failure suggestions on where to find a replacement board for a good price would be appreciated. Its an acer aspire 5515

RAM test was a fail. Tried both sticks in both locations, still not booting....no screens at all. I also tried with no RAM installed and its behavior didnt change at all. It didnt beep with no RAM...just powers on, fan starts, cd rom spins briefly then dead silence and black screen....same as its done every other time. Ryan, overheating might have been a problem, this thing has ran hot for more than a year. Battery life was non-existant as well. Not sure if its connected to this failure. One of the USB ports had died also...motherboard might have finally given up? What say you Shizz?

An oscope or DD1 are never necessary in any daily driving based system. If you dont understand why, then you dont understand the problems involved with using them in such a capacity. Im on a tablet right now so not writing a novel explaining why they are useless in these situations but feel free to search as myself, M5 and 95Honda have discussed it at length several times in the past.

My laptop was asleep, I wake it up and it shows the log in page for a second then flips to the first startup screen like it rebooted, which shouldnt have happened. The status bar at the bottom of the screen gets about 75% across then freezes. I shut it down manually and now it will turn on and the cd drive will make its normal start up noise but nothing happens past that....no start up screen, just black. Seems like I had a similar problem years ago on my desktop and the problem was dead RAM. If i put my ear to the HDD it sounds like its running. Sound like a ram problem? Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this POS?

You don't need an o-scope or a DD1 to set your gains. Your body comes pre-equipped for such a task. Just use various music you are familiar with and set the gain by ear. Use your head and listen for obvious signs of stress from the sub. LPF is high for my tastes but if you need it to fill in the midbass it might work for you. Simply adjust to where ever sounds best. There's no right or wrong. Ported would give you more output, generally in a sedan the subs/port face the same direction. Mainly depends on if you have or are willing to sacrifice the necessary space as a ported enclosure will be significantly larger.

Which was my point....if you needed to use a line driver due to low V output from the tab, they usually have volume knobs built in so that would solve one of your problems.

When you say a pair.....do you mean a single set of components, or two sets of components? If it's the former then there's not much of a choice, only one way to wire them. If it's the later then a more detailed question would be helpful.

Reset your gain by ear without using the DD1. Where is your lowpass filter for the subwoofer set? As rick said, going ported would definitely give you the output you are looking for if you're willing to give up the trunk space

The tablet going to have enough voltage to get a reasonable volume out of the MiniDSP's?

It's on the old analog signal. It would costs way to much to get it converted to digital. I will either leave it for nostalgia or remove it and the holder. Figure out a way to integrate a bluetooth earpiece or something into the speaker/mic location of the phone, then you can use it to talk on when you're using your cellphone in the car. Imagine the looks you would get when you pull up to a stop light talking on that thing......

Bass boost is nothing but a fixed band of equalization. Meaning there is an equal opportunity to damage your subwoofer by boosting the equalization in your headunit as there is with bass boost. If "you want more", boosting the EQ is the wrong way to do it. Give us more details of your system (vehicle, subwoofer, amplifier, enclosure size/tuning, sub enclosure location & alignment, etc) as well as the method used to set the gain and any other settings you may have. There may be other, and better, things you can do with the current system to get what you are after without resorting to boosting the equalizer. Also, what exactly are you looking for? Simply more output overall? Better low frequency extension?

How many channels is your surround? What is your budget? I believe the point M5 was getting at was using pro audio amps from a power/cost perspective, which was going to be my suggestion as well, but they generally have built in fans that can be noisy. But now I'm confused on why you were looking at a 2-channel amp when you are setting up surround sound. Were you still only planning to power the main L/R speakers with the amplifier?

Honestly the outside of the car thing is more for providing a wider image.....since that's not a primary concern, simply do the best you can. Without being under the dash with you it's hard to give too much advice. As long as it's not in the middle of the dash width-wise I think you'll be fine. As for the height....not sure how much of a height difference we are talking or what's holding it up. But if it's a few inches again for your purposes I think the difference is going to be trivial. IMO install them the best you can with what you are willing to do and give it a listen. IMO atleast a set of HLCD installed not perfect but to the best of your abilities are still going to be better than supertweeters. Installing them properly sometimes takes a little bit of creativity. Do you have or can you get pictures? Might help a little bit.

Adcom is a good brand, but do you really need a $1300 amplifier? What are you looking to do...what features do you need the amp to have?

We sit on the same bench. Your "asshole" just makes me curious. Hmmmmm.......

Power can be adjusted. Design for response.

Generally in specific situations and increasing the risk of damaging the amplifier, and with voiding the warranty. Don't use that as a basis of your decision.

I didn't understand a single thing you just typed Sean.

Design the enclosure for desired response, not the amount of power you are running.

Ported is inherently more underdamped than a sealed enclosure. That said the issue here is one more of available space as well.

If you were wanting to stay sealed then the BL is definitely the wrong sub to be looking at. Absolutely will not perform well sealed. Hence the reason it's important to provide more details when asking for assistance in choosing a subwoofer. We need measurements and/or maximum dimensions of available enclosure space so we know what enclosure volume you need to stay within and need to know your budget.