Impious

I'm thinking if I carpet the box I might as well try to wrap it with vinyl or fur or something. Vinyl is harder to work with. Carpet is much more forgiving. Stick with carpet or something similarly easy to work with if this is your first time.

Regular MLV isn't a good idea to put under the hood. IIRC Don @ SDS has MLV w/ an aluminum face to reflect heat which is designed more for under hood treatment

It "helps" as it has some mass & reduces vibrations & resonances, but much less effective at reducing actual sound transmission than a product actually designed for that purpose....such as MLV. In order to block sound you need mass. Treating his door with CLD would definitely be recommended, but he also has to incorporate MLV or a similar product in order to significantly reduce sound transmission. CLD alone isn't going to do it.

Where are the screwholes located? You might need unscrew those 4 screws on top and just remove the plexiglass section. If that doesn't help, most of them are just held together with plastic tabs....find where the tabs are located and squeeze the sizes so they release.

It depends on what is rattling and why. So, what is rattling and why is it rattling? We can't troubleshoot a problem if we don't know what the actual problem is.

Keep in mind that placement is still very important, they have to be as wide as the primary midbass speakers otherwise stage width will be compromised. I.E. Placing them in the rear deck where rear speakers are normally located (which is typically directly behind the driver and passenger seats, if not a little more inward toward the center of the car) is still a very bad idea and stage width will decrease.

You can't locate midbass front-to-rear, but you can locate midbass laterally (side-to-side) based on interaural time differences. So a single midbass would be a terrible idea as the sound is still in stereo at those frequencies, which you would not be able to reproduce with a single rear mounted midbass, and it would significantly hinder stage width if you even attempted it. There is an extremely long list of conditions upon which rear mounted midbass might work. But your plan doesn't meet any of them.

Pretty much close to all of them. I thought TC was selling new product but built out of a Chinese buildhouse rather than in-house built. I could be wrong. But Audiomobile also displayed a new lineup of subwoofers @ CES & though I wasn't there, the renderings I've seen of them & descriptions of them sure make them sound like they are TC sourced again. This is the new Mass HD, obviously a TC design based on the basket, surround and style of the Neo motor:

The other option is to see if you can find a local outlet that sells MLV. Save the shipping cost. There are some differences in durability between MLV but as long as the material has the same lbs/sqft it won't make any difference in ability to block sound. And hanging in a door I don't think durability would be as big of an issue as it would on the floor where you'll constantly be stepping on it.

I would recommend you email Scott or Nick, see if they are willing to spill the beans

Those will stop vibrations, but they are not going to significantly reduce sound transmission.....which is what he's trying to accomplish. randomwalk; You were told correct. Dynamat and other types of CLD "sound deadeners" will help reduce vibrations and resonances, but they will not significantly reduce the transmission of sound/noise. To do that, it's fairly simple; you need to block the sound with mass. The most efficient method of doing so is with MLV as you had considered. No, it's not extremely convenient but it's necessary to achieve your goal. For some photos and a sort of step-by-step on how to go about it, I would suggest reviewing this thread: http://www.soundsolu...__fromsearch__1 I would also highly recommend you contact Don @ Sound Deadener Showdown.

It depends on what you mean by "good" and what your output goals are. 500w will be adequate, depending on your expectations for output level. It will sound "better" be definition than a higher power amplifier as the decreased excursion will result in lower distortion, but it won't be as loud as a more powerful amplifier. How much output you lose depends on what level of power you are comparing to. It could range anywhere from inaudible to noticeable.

"Keep in Mind these are sheet specifications and under rated compared to actual higher results!"

if there on your list of stuff you want to try, and like new stuff, then i would get them ASAP, from what i understand image dynamics sold there company and they no longer make new products, so whats out there for stock is whats available. in case you didnt know. For reference, ID didn't sell the company. Eric Stevens owned ID. Several years ago he brought in a partner, I believe the owner of Powerbass. Eric & the new partner had some sort of conflict, so Eric left (as well as another employee who was pretty important to the operation, Matt B) and the business is now in control of the partner.

Just because the speaker is smaller doesn't mean it'll have less midbass. Install it and see what you think afterward rather than getting grumpy about it before you've even listened to them.

By the same token I chuckle at the people who think JL sucks because some 1kw rebadged Chinese amp can be bought from an internet company for $200 or because their fart cannon subwoofer with primarily off-the-shelf parts costs half of a W7.

http://www.hudhomestore.com/HudHome/Index.aspx Listing of properties owned by HUD.

What LP amps are you installing instead? That 2.2HV is highly desired by many.....list those over on DIYMA and they'll probably be gone in the first day.

Depends on goals, needs, budget, etc.

What are you doing to it?

Not turning the gain "past the 75% mark" and not turning the volume to max doesn't mean anything. If the voice coil is unwinding, then you overheated the coil and the glue failed. What does your system consist of.....HU, amps, enclosure, etc? What are all of your system settings at (bass boost, gain, any settings in the HU, etc)? What is your typical listening material? If you have a DMM, I would first measure each coil to verify there is a problem with the sub and it's not a problem elsewhere in the system. It's possible you might be seeing something wrong with the voice coil that isn't really there. If the coil is truly unwinding, the only fix is to have the driver reconed. But again, one step at a time and verify that it's actually a problem with the coil.

I wouldn't put too much faith into the 94db sensitivity. That's a pretty challenging number for a 6.5" driver to reach. They either rated it using an unconventional method, are lying, or the mids are going to have significantly restricted low frequency output (midbass). Personally I would find one of the first two on that list to be more probable. That's not to say you won't enjoy them. You very well may love their performance. But I think you are putting too much emphasis on that one number, when it's either inaccurate or going to affect the amount of midbass the driver is capable of.....there's no free lunch, it's a trade off. If you want higher (true) efficiency, you will give up low frequency output.

It's been a while, but I think I remember reading on the PG forum that these things were going to be pretty darn expensive?? Indeed. 55% is probably a full power efficiency rating anyways......just about any A/B is going to be in the 30%-40% range for efficiency at normal listening levels. Bingo. Greatly increases system flexibility. That's 30mm one-way. Good, but comparable to dozens of other subs on the market. Though I've been a little leery of PG's subwoofer claims ever since their demonstrated failure to understand Hoffman's Law. Meh. More marketing than anything. The Sony HU in my car right now, that I paid $95 used to purchase, has BB inside it. They aren't necessarily expensive, or unique. Just marketing. Agreed. Even moreso the fact that unless their pots have 0% error tolerance, those charts and the detents aren't going to be 100% accurate. The effect on sound is more important than the exact frequency. Seems more marketing gimmicky to me. With the availability of outboard processing and processing built into headunits......I'd really like to see more of these companies save me money by building simple gain blocks rather than making me pay $$ for the engineering and parts to include these super-duper crossovers and other features that I have absolutely no need for. It's an amplifier. I need it to amplify. That's it.

I don't know what forums or online communities consider it humorous to intentionally or unintentionally annoy others with their car stereo.....but this isn't one of them.