Impious

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-642 Comes with everything you need including preassembled cabinets. You solder together the crossovers, install the speakers, wire everything up. It'll be a little project but should still be relatively simple for a novice as long as you can solder.

What would you recommend I look for? It'd be used for music, movies, videogames... And I don't know where to start... Lol I'm only 17 my self and just got into car audio but I have no clue on home audio... Don't try to piece yourself together a set of speakers from Madisound. You don't have the experience for it. I understand your goal, it's just not something easily or sensibly obtained.

Don't. It's just not going to be that easy or worthwhile.

Purchasing the 6.5 components for your home isn't a wise decision. For starters, most car audio companies don't release enough information about the speakers to allow you to build a proper enclosure for them. Second, the crossover would need to be designed for the specific enclosure you are installing them in, and since that's not the way the included crossover was designed, it would be a poor match. Just purchase a set of pre-designed home audio speakers. The subwoofers might not be terrible, depending on your listening needs, as long as they are designed to work ported (output with two 8's sealed in a house would be terrible), and as long as you can obtain an impedance that works with your amplifier (home audio amps aren't stable into as low of an impedance as car audio amps).

A lot longer than 3 days......I've never done business w/ DC before, but IMO for a custom built enclosure + shipping time, anything up to a month would be reasonable. Grab a beer or something, it'll be a little bit yet.

I see that now Which is the antithesis of the principles this forum was founded and is based upon.

This time of year my entire hand is dry, cracked and bleeding.

It's easier to delete posts than learn to understand the equipment and be able to answer questions regarding your own products it seems. He has a habit of just deleting posts anytime he doesn't want to address the questions/comments. Looks like it's still there to me? Maybe he deleted it, then undeleted it? I don't know. He's not responded to it yet though.

The owner of AT is unscrupulous and untrustworthy. Enough of a reason for me to never use nor recommend the product. And a rep from SS or someone who is associated with Second Skin said that there are a lot better options then audio technix. Probably an accurate statement. But the douchebaggery is enough of a reason for me.

Then stick with 1500w, maximum. Your electrical can't really support any additional right now. It's fine to add a 2nd battery, but batteries due not replace the need for a proper amperage alternator. Neither. I prefer Kinetik. Many here have a good opinion of XS Power (see their subforum). A sufficiently large Walmart battery would be fine, too.

SDS is outstanding for both. But the approaches and materials by which you treat rattles and you treat road noise are very different.

The owner of AT is unscrupulous and untrustworthy. Enough of a reason for me to never use nor recommend the product.

That leads to 3 questions: 1) What are these "actual higher results"? 2) What was the test methodology for determining these "actual higher results"? 3) Why is the amplifier not rated at the "actual higher results" if that is the level of their true performance and you're just going to add a disclaimer that the rated power is less than their actual power anyways?

Not what I would consider a great mounting location. Best to do as Stefan suggested, grab some velcro and try different locations and aiming, see what sounds best.

Yes, there is such as thing as too much sound deadener. That's not to say that going overboard will result in worse performance, simply that going overboard is an unnecessary waste of time and resources with little to no added benefit. We've all been there, however. Sound deadening for so long was more mysticism than science in our hobby. We all "learned" that excess was optimum. So we stripped our vehicles, laid down 3-5 layers of (asphalt based) CLD, posted pictures online and everyone told us how great we were doing. Thankfully, over the past couple years the veil of mysticism is slowly being lifted and sound deadening is changing into more of a scientific practice, thanks in large part to people like Don @ SDS. So no, you do not need to cover every square inch with multiple layers of CLD. It is a good idea to still strip the vehicle, as you will want to apply CLD to the resonant panels. But 300% coverage isn't necessary. Generally 25-50% coverage is going to be sufficient (with a proper CLD) to adequately damp panel resonance. B-quiet Ultimate if I recall correctly is a buytl based deadener, but has some filler and a thinner foil. It's an okay deadener, not great but not terrible. While price per square foot may be low, you would actually achieve better overall results with less coverage from a higher quality CLD sound deadener. I would highly suggest you get in contact with Don @ Sound Deadener Showdown. He is extremely knowledgeable and helpful and also happens to sell some of the best CLD (sound deadener) on the market. He'll be able to point you in the right direction for quantity of CLD tiles to meet both your budget and your goal, along with the best application of the materials. Also keep in mind that there are many stages to sound deadening a vehicle. Using CLD mat is just one of those steps. Depending on what your goal is, you will probably want some foam to help insulate panel vibrations, and probably some butyl rope as well. I'm assuming your goal is more vibration control than road noise reduction.

Many reasons. Distortion isn't measured. On a reactive load (i.e. a subwoofer) power is not a simple volts x amps measurement. You don't know the accuracy of the equipment.

Wouldn't work. Your only options would be to strap them - when strapped the minimum impedance increases from 1ohm to 2ohm and you can't obtain a 2ohm load out of two 4ohm DVC subwoofers, or run one subwoofer per amplifier - which would be 1kw per sub, or an increase of only 250w per sub, which is a maximum of difference of only 1.25db less power compression....i.e. the difference wouldn't be audible. Not a sensible investment. What is you electrical system?

That's absolute nonsense. The difference between 2500w and 1500w is only ~2.2db before considering the effects of power compression, which will make the difference even less. Meaning the audible difference between those two levels of power is rather minimal, but a large increase in the required supporting electrical system and the increased risk of damage to the driver, not to mention the added cost of the larger amplifier. So the question is really why would you want to spend all of the extra money on more power, increased risk of damage, more required electrical support, for minimal audible difference? Follow up question would be, what type of electrical system do you have?

Clamp test is useless. Ignore it.

Not yet. PASMAG tested the P900.4.....output rated power, flat response, no noise issues, reasonably efficient, decent footprint. And at $200 authorized online (SE is an authorized PPI internet dealer), they seem like a hell of an amp. I think I've pretty well decided they'll be my next amps. I'd love to have two Leviathans but too much $. I'm gonna see if I can find that review. Glad to see Epilson releasing a quality product and not just whoring it out. I love all my old school PPI amps. http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/test-reports/1805-test-report-precision-power-p9004-amplifier-

LOL....I love the internet. No, it's not true.

Not yet. PASMAG tested the P900.4.....output rated power, flat response, no noise issues, reasonably efficient, decent footprint. And at $200 authorized online (SE is an authorized PPI internet dealer), they seem like a hell of an amp. I think I've pretty well decided they'll be my next amps. I'd love to have two Leviathans but too much $.

Why would you look at paying 150% more for that Sundown compared to the Aura? Even if comparing to a used SAX 125.2 the Aura is a much better value. Based on your original request, I think your search would pretty much end with the Aura amp. My other suggestion would be the PPI P900.4. Within your budget, reasonable footprint, bridge it down to 2 channels for 450w x 2 @ 4ohm. Headroom =

SSA

The best option.