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plans are screwed unless
so i planned on turning my smoked dp 15 into 10", only once i tore in to it i have an older 08 model with the ia basket holes only (2 sets- 12 and 15, 18 and 21) cant fit a 12 spoke or a aq,dd,ab basket my question is, will the dr or li 10" baskets bolt up to a dp motor?
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motor losing gauss strength
so i pulled my dp yesterday, and to my surprise when i set it on top of the box none of the screws or the driver pulled over to the motor. usually this happens, so i put a few on the side of the motor, and to my surprise they were very easy to pull off. this is unusual as it is a pita to do usually. any thoughts as to why this happened and wnat to do??
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15" dp in an abc or 6th order?
with no t/s parameters, is there any possibility of coming up w/ a design for either one? single dp 15 (d1.4), orion 2500d
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Sub magnet split in half, looking for help asap.
just found my btl to be the same way last night, the magnet closest to the top plate split in half
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wtf, anyone else get this crap?
i have, but i didnt look at it. looks like a bad deal
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10" dp??
thanks you ia2 for the double answer
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10" dp??
anyone know if the lethal injection 10 uses the same bolt pattern?
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10" dp??
is there any 10" baskets that will bolt to a dp motor? are the holes in the way to drill it out to fit a 12 spoke or any other 10" basket? looking to turn a 15" dp into a 10" for an 03 deville rear deck ported thru the armrest install
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which is which
top plate ID is 3.3793937
- From: which is which
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which is which
gap measures .225 +/- .005 is that a tight enough spec.?? can i get a D2, ND??
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HELP NEEDED
i had a similar problem when i built the btl's first box, check to make sure the port is firmly secured to the top and bottom of the box. when i stuck my head in the port, i thought my sub was f@cked, but closer review showed that my port wall seperated from my top baffle. nothing a few screws and some titebond didnt fix:) its worth a shot
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which is which
bassahaulic it was a D1 before i took the cone off, and i will be measuring the gap at work today with a faro arm (3D mapping and precision measuring instrument) its damned hard to measure a magnetic gap with metal calipers:D
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which is which
is there a way to identify a D2 from a D1, other than measurements? which i can check:)
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which is which
heres the link to the original sale, team psi at ca.com says it was a D1 motor http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.p...black+btl+18%22 is it possible ND to not have to send it in? and here are a few pics, maybe you can tell how old?? Pole +gap motor
lincolntc
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