CadillacMatt

Hehe I actually live in a little town called Schertz just on the outskirts of San Antonio, but I spend 95% of my time traveling in and around SA and besides, if I put Schertz nobody would have a clue where I was at And lol at the avatar I was watching a Rick Astley interview the other day and I had to go watch his music videos again

721 people wow I thought my town of 5,000 was small lol

I got another one for ya. Anyone play MW2 here? How come so many kids come on with PSN names that reference their favorite rapper's favorite variety of cannabis, followed by their preferred class or method of killing, and their age? Examples: KuSH_K1LLa14 Xx_HIGH_Sn1P3R_12_xX 420_SoUlJa_1998 This is why I enjoy having a mic now, so I can call these little wieners out on that nonsense. Oh, and if anyone plays MW2 on the PS3 add me my PSN is CadillacMatt

The number of ways you can integrate components into your car or truck is pretty much only bound by your imagination. Sure, there are basic guidelines and positions which will give best effect, most of which can be found around the forums/build logs. If you are simply using an MDF ring to space the speaker out from the door, there are numerous ways to attach it. If the section of your door is plastic, once you cut the hole out and properly prep the surface the ring can be bonded directly onto the door, secured with hardware like screws, or fiberglassed in. As far as blending the ring into the rest of your door (assuming you don't want an eyesore) you could prep and apply some body filler around the ring, and then either cover the affected area with some sort of material (carpet, vinyl, crocodile ) or you could simply paint it. For example, I have very little clearance behind my doors (anything but shallow mount speakers will come in contact with the window glass) and I didn't have any room for the kick pods that are popular in trucks, so I came up with a creative solution. Yours doesn't have to be anything this drastic just throwing it out there as an example. My stock speaker was behind the carpeting on the door (5 1/4" dia) and the tweet was mounted in a strange spot, mid-door (just behind the upper lip of the pod you see). So I integrated a pod into the A-pillars and aimed the 6 1/2"s for optimum staging... it's not perfect, I don't claim to be perfect at anything but I don't think they came out too bad And if you need any help fiberglassing just shoot me a PM or check around the forums... I did fiberglass work on aircraft for 3 years

Well put old chap!

When I just get it running again I'll be happy

Yep I met Edgar at that same flea market about a month earlier lol

Yes indeed it would be very strange for somebody to walk outside with a single pant. lol!

The use of a good sealer cannot be overstated, I neglected to do this when spraying the MDF exposed inside my port walls with Krylon and wound up with a pretty patchy paint job.

Unrelated but I guessed you were from up there by your username

Just from doing a quick Google search I pulled up a few sites... can't make any personal recommendations about them but here goes: woofersetc.com, OutdoorPros.com, onlinecarstereo.com And of course eBay is a good place to look for just about anything.

Definitely need more info than "sx" to give anyone an intelligible answer. Assuming I'm not wasting my virtual breath here and the OP returns to the topic, the OP should detail the reasoning behind his question.

I'm having a problem as well right now -- getting ahold of someone over at MechMan. I sent an email Thursday, called Friday & left a message, called today, nothing. All I need is a spacer for my pulley and I'll be ready to rock and roll. I'm tempted to go and buy me a washer from O'Reilly's tomorrow and shim the damn thing myself.

Wow... it's like techno on a heavy dose of opiates

Uh... well I usually just eat the whole box I never go by the instructions. Like Duran said who the hell eat six pizza rolls besides 12 year old girls??? jk How about this, why the hell do people insist on getting in the 10 items or less lane of the grocery store with a basket full of shit?

Costly yes, but as for overkill I would have to disagree... I'm running only ~500watts more than he is and I had serious voltage issues even with my stock 140amp alt and my Optima. Plus, when the alt began to fail it caused a low voltage condition which fried a few sensors and nearly killed the PCM. But to each his own.

That's pretty badass man really intricate... makes me want to go and get inked up again lol

I don't know what bad things you have heard about Optima, I have been running a RedTop up front with stock alt for about two years and it's never let me down. Anyhow, my stock alt finally crapped out and I swapped it with a MechMan 250amp Rhino alt... only got a few minutes to test it out before I threw a belt but it charged a consistent 14V with all lights and full A/C on... you might want to look into it here is the link to one that would fit your car: MechMan.com - 250 Amp Alternator (10113362-00) Plus these alts have built-in adjustable voltage regulators which is a plus.

x2 on the Big3 in 1/0 and checking your alternator, mine showed the same warning systems before it completely went out. Any parts store like AutoZone or Advance would be happy to do it for free!

Wherever you put them just make sure they are mounted securely Or you might have some floating lights inside your box lol

If you want to achieve a really clean look with the LED's (i.e. make them non-visible but still project a good amount of light) I would incorporate a lip of MDF about 1" around the plexi, and mount the LED's directly behind the lip (if that makes any sense!) so when people look through the "window" of the box, they see it lit up but they won't see the source of the light... again, if that makes any sense.. lol

Right, technically Plexiglass is a brand moniker too, but not to confuse anyone too much... most people refer to acrylic glass as Plexiglass and polycarbonate as Lexan, I feel like I'm piggybacking on OldSkool's post again but he is right about the price point, Plexi is a perfect budget-friendly alternative to Lexan as long as you allow plenty of thickness Whew!

Lexan is top notch, when I worked for my old composite company we used to build aircraft shower doors out of the stuff (The technical difference - Lexan is GE's trade name for its polycarbonate product, whereas Plexi is acrylic like you mentioned) However it is much more expensive so Plexi should be fine as OldSkool said.

While attempting to diagnose the alignment issue myself, the serpentine belt delaminated so I had to buy a new one (Gates Green Stripe - $45!!!! I couldn't believe it). Been in touch with Matt over at MechMan, he's been really great keeping in contact with me every day. Seems like I'm going to have to shim the pulley so the alignment is on track. He says he can send me a shim no problem but that the alt shouldn't have had the alignment issue. Double checked all my mounts and everything is dandy so hoping to hear back from him today. Just kinda bummed that the only thing keeping me from driving the car is a quarter of an inch I was somewhat productive today though, at least I changed the oil

I think it has more to do with the pressure you would have to obtain inside of the vehicle. For best effect it should be close to airtight, a small volume of space such as in a hatchback, and a cone that can displace air very quickly.