CadillacMatt

Are we talkin bout doin this tomorrow?

We need to find a good meeting spot .... Scott you remember last time at the flea market we were there maybe 20 minutes and the cops came and told us to kill the stereo...

From personal experience - you should be OK for starting if the battery has more than 12v, when I'm demoing at full tilt with the lights/system on I dip as low as 11.2v, but I don't turn the car off until the alt has charged the over 12v (tried it once, needed a jump.. haha) But if you cycle a regular old battery like that then it will definitely shorten its lifespan.. what kind of battery do you have up front?

The push/pull setup is a good idea, how many fans would depend on the volume of the enclosed area and how powerful the little guys are (the fans)

hmm. so far im leanin towards the XCON SD deal. Just pointin that out because for about the same price with the AQ2200D you'd get 700wRMS greater than the SAZ-1500D, and the BTL is rated for 2000wRMS vs. the xCon's 1750wRMS... BTL 15" - $384 AQ2200D - ~$389 Not that the others aren't solid contenders though

First off, let me begin by saying that the customer service at Image Dynamics is top notch... due to my improper gain settings I managed to blow through the first set of crossovers I received with the set and Eric over at ID sent me a new pair at no charge. Outstanding company. Now, to the review... where do I begin? This set is very well balanced and the price point is very low for such an exceptional set of speakers. I had mine for around $150. The massive 6.5" midrange woofer delivers clear sound, powerful & punchy midbass, and is capable of sustaining clarity at very high volume levels. In other words, it gets loud and sounds damn good doing it!! I'm feeding around 75wRMS to these bad boys and they're louder than most lesser setups with speakers on all four corners. The silk dome tweeters come with two mounting sockets - one surface mount, and one flush mount... in eyeball swivel sockets for precise aiming. The sound they produce is just right to my ears, not too harsh, and can blend very well with the midrange. However, they tend to be temperamental with the amount of power they receive, so heed the warning on the box and never push more than 100wRMS... you might end up with a fried tweet. In conclusion, this versatile speaker set will satisfy anyone from a discerning SQ guy to an all-out SPL head... and anyone looking for that ever-so-elusive midbass

Hmm I think I'll go work on a few, that's a great idea

When I was first starting out in car audio, I went down the street to a little shop down the road, and I asked him what the difference between ported and sealed boxes were... he told me "You're not really going to notice too much of a difference " and even I, being unknowledgable in car audio, knew this guy had no idea what he was talking about

Hmm... with a 15" BTL and an amp like an AQ2200D I think you'd be pretty satisfied...

You are awesome that's just what I was wanting to hear... I ended up ordering a Power Acoustik preamp/crossover with two inputs to do exactly that... I'm a little more at ease knowing that it should work. With your headunit running through the preamp, does the sound quality suffer from being "amplified" both by the HU, then again by the preamp, and finally by the amplifier? which power acoustik preamp did you get. is it 1/2 din to put into the dash? Yeah, the PWM-19 I believe... no room to really put it in the dash I'm gonna have to rig somethin up

All ur DeeBeez are belong to Fi

i have been there. lol one of my EX's lived with me a few years ago, she was bipolar... that shit sucked...

Fi shirts for the God damned win

Haha "What the hell's wrong with you sittin' there like it ain't nothin" I love those reactions

Yes 1/0ga is a must, the need for an alt is subjective... depends on what your stock alt puts out. A high quality battery up front like a Kinetik or Optima would be a must I would think, another in the back would help out. For example, I'm running about 2600wRMS total, with a stock alt (160amps) and a RedTop up front, and don't have too much of a problem with voltage drop until its cranked full volume for a while. Deadening helps out a LOT, my trunk and doors are completely pasted with DampPro which I recommend highly. Great product with a great price point. Also, off-topic - Shizzon do you have any vids of your system? It looks pretty mean I was just checkin out your sig haha

Vids!!

Hmm... I can't cheat and weigh mine because they're 15's lol!! I'm gonna guess 690

Good lord man what happened?

Yes... always need louder.... average people think I'm insane... lol

You got some problems if u dont believe your wife telling u where in the building you live. I dont think thats happened to anyone. Haa I had me a nice hearty LOL with that one! And I don't think I've ever had an issue with my windows "vibeing" either

Cadillac all the way... Ford sucks! *ducks and hides* SORRY BIGJON JUST KIDDIN' !!! Oh and that's true blades are played out... kinda like how everyone was jammin 'Wanna Be A Baller' forever and a day

You are awesome that's just what I was wanting to hear... I ended up ordering a Power Acoustik preamp/crossover with two inputs to do exactly that... I'm a little more at ease knowing that it should work. With your headunit running through the preamp, does the sound quality suffer from being "amplified" both by the HU, then again by the preamp, and finally by the amplifier?

Back with a few little updates! Been on the job hunt for the past few months so progress has been a little slow to say the least lol. First of all, I replaced the Pioneer HU with a Dual Touchscreen (yeah go ahead and bash me for it lol) but I got it on eBay for $68 because the little front screen doesn't work so it was a good deal for now... plus, I have a Power Acoustik crossover on order which I'm going to run my iPod directly into instead of routing it through the HU. Hmm what else... well I finally managed to get the speaker guards painted. Painting the visor screens, have two 15" roof mounts on order as well Going to mount the iPod on its own little stand projecting from the front of the center console, so it's right in reach. It'll be hard-wired into the car and the audio signal will come from the line-out dock connector instead of the headphone jack like most others. Doesn't look like much now... this is the basic idea Miscellaneous crap I've been searching all over the internet trying to figure out how to have the iPod and headunit both wired up to the sound system but be able to play them independently... nobody seemed to have a clue how to do this so I came up with the preamp/crossover solution (which the iPod needed anyways) so we shall see what happens :crazy:

Hey guys I have a little project I need help with. I recently purchased a new head unit with a monitor, replacing my old Pioneer 4000UB with iPod control. The new unit only has RCA Aux-In and does not offer iPod integration. What I am trying to accomplish is have my iPod play audio output through the sound system (two amps - one for mids/highs and one for subs) independent of the head unit, so I can play videos/movies on the head unit while still having the option to listen to a different track than what's being outputted from the movie... if that makes sense. It would be an easy solution to plug the iPod directly to the Aux-In of the head unit but then the screens would just display a blue screen while in that mode... I was thinking of running the iPod output through a powered equalizer (the dock connector output of the iPod gives the best quality but it's not powered like the headphone jack, so it needs a preamp and a volume control) and then back to the amps, but that means I would need some kind of two input/one output RCA splitter for each channel on the amp, and I heard that it was not a good idea to combine sources like that... even if you are only playing one at a time, they say that they will short each other out? The only other option I was considering was to take the outputs from the HU, and the outputs from the iPod/crossover, and running them into an RCA switcher box... but even then, most switcher boxes only have 3 RCA inputs (R, W, and Y) and I would need at least 5 for all of the amp connections... so confusing... Thanks if anyone can help!