Sencheezy

GLWS

Make sure you install some in that stroller!

lol, I really like how you ALREADY know what you like before even listening to them. Good luck with your new toys sir.

The next thing I would like to do, is remove that windshield wiper and handle. If anybody has any suggestions, that would be great! I'm thinking, removing them, shouldn't be an issue, its just, once they are removed, what is left underneath. And how do I go about filling it if there is a gap?

Heres it is debadged

Got some small items in today

The new suspension has been installed successfully it seems. Now that I have driven it for a day or so. It does feel a little "cushy" if that makes sense, kind of like, riding on air ^.^ As soon as the RCAs get here, we will continue to move forward and will update shortly there after.

Mine is a daily ground pounder. With my setup, no. This is because I am running a single 15" SSA Zcon. My amplifier over powers my subwoofer. So I will never get to that point of playing balls to the wall currently. I am able to play my Zcon extremely loud for the entirety of the ride though, yes. I'm sure there is. See if you can find a D3400 from XS power, or something similiar. When I only had my stock battery, and my AQ1200, my lights would dimm, even while driving. But it would be extremly fast. When your lights begin to struggle to gain back its brightness, that is when something is not right/safe. Hmm, do you think 2 10's @ 900RMS could be a balls to the wall system? How much were both your batteries combined? And my lights do un-dim rather quickly. I don't think I'm in any serious danger, just the average dimming you normally see. The size of the subwoofers is irrelavent. It all depends on the additional electronics your introducing demands. 2 10s @ 900 watts to be balls to the walls system would have to consist of two SSA Xcons My stock batttery came with the vehicle. I payed 500$ for two D3100s, one was damaged in sipping Thats good for now, but you have to remember, with each dimm, your hurting your vehicle's system. If it's just damaging the alternator, then I'm fine with that seeing as it has a life time warranty. I was told it will still last a couple years with my abuse on it, and that's fine with me because I'll upgrade my battery before that. Damn that battery is expensive! lol. You will soon notice, if you want to be loud, you have to pay. Lesson I learned a long time ago. And 500$ for two batteries that are worth 500 EACH seems like a good deal to me. If your ok with damaging your equipment, then... I have nothing else to say TBH.

putty knife would have been great! lol. Yeah the paint doens't seem to be affected, and yes, future plan is to be murdered out Ok cool, yeah, I'll sell them. It seems these are going for about 10$ each on ebay. These are IronMan badges though, limited edition. What you see in the picture is what I have. 3 large explorer emblems, and one small "ATRSC" emblem.We could do like, 40$ shipped? PM with a response to the badges.

this ^^

Mine is a daily ground pounder. With my setup, no. This is because I am running a single 15" SSA Zcon. My amplifier over powers my subwoofer. So I will never get to that point of playing balls to the wall currently. I am able to play my Zcon extremely loud for the entirety of the ride though, yes. I'm sure there is. See if you can find a D3400 from XS power, or something similiar. When I only had my stock battery, and my AQ1200, my lights would dimm, even while driving. But it would be extremly fast. When your lights begin to struggle to gain back its brightness, that is when something is not right/safe. Hmm, do you think 2 10's @ 900RMS could be a balls to the wall system? How much were both your batteries combined? And my lights do un-dim rather quickly. I don't think I'm in any serious danger, just the average dimming you normally see. The size of the subwoofers is irrelavent. It all depends on the additional electronics your introducing demands. 2 10s @ 900 watts to be balls to the walls system would have to consist of two SSA Xcons My stock batttery came with the vehicle. I payed 500$ for two D3100s, one was damaged in sipping Thats good for now, but you have to remember, with each dimm, your hurting your vehicle's system.

I DID NOT HAVE one of those!!!! lmao I first sprayed the emblem down with that turtle wax sticker remover from walmart. I was gonna use goof off? But I couldn't find it. i was also gonna use a flat hard plastic skweggi?(damn it I can't spell.). But I could find one there either. So I just used a hard plastic tool. I like, turned it sideways and scrapped away. Only took 90 mins FML. Taking off the badge itself was easy. I just sprayed it down, took my blow dryer, and heated it up really good. took some fishing line, went behind the emblem, and just slid underneath it. Then it just came right off.

Well I will be partaying in all of it sir. Sean has agreed to pay me 20% commission. This is the route to getting loud and the road to success

I debadged it. Looks pretty good so far, its dark outside though. That damn rubber adhesive was a bish! lol

Ok, sweet! Just, when your redoing your grounds, take some sand paper and sound down both the ring terminals and the metel your attaching them to. you want them to be super shiny! You can fing cheap Welding Cable from Wireandsupply.com and Weldingsupply.com

Mine is a daily ground pounder. With my setup, no. This is because I am running a single 15" SSA Zcon. My amplifier over powers my subwoofer. So I will never get to that point of playing balls to the wall currently. I am able to play my Zcon extremely loud for the entirety of the ride though, yes. I'm sure there is. See if you can find a D3400 from XS power, or something similiar. When I only had my stock battery, and my AQ1200, my lights would dimm, even while driving. But it would be extremly fast. When your lights begin to struggle to gain back its brightness, that is when something is not right/safe.

Many people are just giving you "their" advise. You can't/don't want to do that, then don't. But don't get offended by others suggestions either, after all, you are the one who asked. I wouldn't go by other ppl's system in the world either. Lol. A lot of bad things can happen when following ppl on youtube. 900watts may not seem a lot to you, but you have to remember when that vehicle was designed, it was not design to handle anything else more than the vehicle's needs. So, you can't be pissed at the system, if the manufacture did not design the car for what your trying to do to it. With 900 watts, your at the max load of running a system with a stock electrical anyway. Most stock vehicles can only handle an additional of 750-1200 watts. This is fact. If you feel the need of more power, but lights are dimming, I would suggest turning down the gain, because light dimming and other symptons will only lead to something failing. This is just a fair warning.

Great advise from all the above. Another route you could take, is to simple install one piece at a time, and go from there. Like, add one g31 batt, if that doesn't work, then install another, if that doesn't work, etc etc etc. Also, buy a volt meter, and see where your going. If you are droping to below 12.8 or so constantly, then I would suggest investing into an H/O alt, I suggest going with Singer Alternators. My current install consist of 1 Factory 130a alt, one batt from wal mart under the hood, and one D3100 in the rear. Using a BC5500 and my voltage has been great.

I honestly don't see why is it so difficult for you to grasp such an easy concept. Many respectable members here have given you more than enough information in regards what you should do and why. If you don't want to spend more on parts than equipment, then buy better equipment. Do some research, and find equipment that is more efficient than what your running now. When it all comes down to it, you either spend a lot of money on equipment, or a lot of money on what to you refer to as "parts". That is the basics for a budget system. Again, many members here have answered these questions for you. The reason why most competitors use a single Alt, is because, in my situation, to stay in the class I want to run in, the max limit is a single alt, which in turns, is the reason for multiple large batteries. This can be done because in my situation, and with others, you only need 2-3 SECONDS to recieve your score. Now, when you go see other people, who run 10k, 15k, 20k rms, they use multiple alternators, most likely because their goal was to be a daily ground pounder. In this scenerio, there is a constant draw or command from the electrical to keep up with the system. This is where and why you will see 2-6 alts in a single install. Each system is different, and only calls for certain equipment/parts. You don't have to go through "all this", to maintain a properly equipped system. As stated before, just do the basics, and don't skimp over anything. The reason you must go through all this is to prevent failure. Thats like, asking why do you have to study in school, when other students never study a day in their life, but yet have all A's. Its a peer to peer basis. In my current system. I run a single Crescendo 5500, 1 stock 130a alt, one battery under hood(from walmart), and one D3100 in the rear. And that is it. But monitoring my voltage is very key. I never drop below 13.5 volts while driving, and nothing below 12.7 while in idle. Yes I have all 1/0 wiriing, multiple powers, and multiple grounds in different locations. But hell, you can get a 1/0 kit off ebay for 30$ nowadays. I would suggest you to get 10ft of 1/0 to upgrade to the big 3. Charge your current battery over night a parts store (its free), and go from there. Also, buy a volt meter, so that we are no longer playing guessing games of where your voltage is. Its 25$ off ebay, I know, I know, that might be a whole lot of money, but it is important for you to know where your at.

What I'm currently doing Taking off this rubber adhesive is really starting to become a PITA.

SEXtremely lighter. LBVS