Sencheezy

is that a legit sales place? might hit that amp up Be careful with AP. With my personal experience, I had the AP1500d, I tried it out with my BTL, and the thing would get very warm very fast. I paid 150$ for it, but quickly sold it after. Just my .02

Nice!

Holy shit batman

Of course Im not sure lol....Im gunna get out there today and give us dimensions to play with........... Well if were still throwing numbers around, why not put 55 18s in? I was thinking more like 21 21s

Alright, I see your point. I have too read very good reviews about the TC sounds. But yeah, thanks for your help.

Haha, Thank you sir. I did not expect that to show up.

Well I did ask him. And he told me that it is a good buy. And I don't have any reason not to believe him, since I'm already subscribed to his youtube, and I've seen what it can do. But I'm not too familiar with PSI, or TC sounds. Just never had any in person experience with them, that is the reason why I ask this question. Yes I know its a personal decision, but if I had input from other users on here, that ARE familiar with these two brands and their work, it would make my decision a lot easier.

TwistedChild420 is selling his PSI LMS ULTRA, I wanted to get you guys opinion on this, and let me know if this is worth 800$? ~86 Pounds, 4" 8 Layer Flatwind Coil,Triple Leads,5 Long Throw Spiders,Direct Connect 8 gauge wire,6" Carbon Fiber dustcap Thanks for your input. I think I would like to get this, but I just want hear other opinions on whether or not this is a good buy for 800?

Also, since your ONLY going with SSA, then just grab the Zcons when they come out.

Nope. Mainly to allow the manufacturer to get more money out of your wallet and into theirs. Some of them also include other "useful" features, such as some equalizer bands and such, which in certain circumstances may be of benefit to the system (note that it's the other features and not the "line driver" feature that would be the primary benefit to the system in this case). But other than that the only, ONLY, benefit to a higher preamp voltage is if you are experiencing noise in your system that can only be eliminated with either a lower gain setting or higher signal voltage level, and this is rarely the case. As helotaxi said, a higher preamp voltage improves the SNR of the signal transfer and allows for a lower gain setting. Some amplifiers can have audible noise with a high gain setting, so increasing the preamp voltage allows the user to lower the gain and eliminate the noise issue. But with modern amplifier designs, this is pretty much a non-issue in most situations. Or if there is a high noise floor during the signal transfer, increasing the voltage of the signal increases the SNR of the signal. But again, this is rarely the case and in most cases routing signal cables away from noisy areas in the vehicle will solve the issue. The gain (or input sensitivity) knob is on the amplifier to allow the amplifier to output full power with a wide range of input voltages. The gain knob basically adjusts the level of the input signal so that it will effectively "see" the same amount of input voltage. Rather you start at 2V or start at 8V, if you properly set the gain the amplifier won't know the difference and it will output the same amount of power in either circumstance. If you properly set the gain, there would be no difference in output levels between a 2V headunit and an 8V headunit. Now, what happens if you start with a 2V HU and then switch to an 8V HU but don't readjust the gain? The amplifier is set to adjust the input signal based on an expected 2V of input signal. But you are now sending it 8V, so it's not properly adjusting the level of the input signal. It's receiving a lot more than it was expecting to see. As a result, it's going to output more power because it's letting too much of the input signal pass through to the amplification stage. This means the amplifier is going to output more power with the gain set to the 2V setting and an 8V input signal than it would with a 2V setting and 2V of input signal. In order for the amplifier to properly adjust the input signal for the higher 8V input signal, the gain would need to be reset to the 8V setting. Now you might be thinking "Hey, cool, if I don't readjust the gain that means I can get a lot more power out of my amplifier then, right?" No, this is bad. This is bad because the amplifier is going to amplify the input signal too much and clip the signal it is outputting to your speakers or subwoofers. This clipped signal contains more average power than the amplifier operating below clipping (with a properly set gain), and as a result could potentially damage your speakers or subwoofers depending on the circumstance. Hey thanks a lot for replying and explaining this to me bro. I really do appreciate it. You took a lot of time to fill me in on this, just wna say thanks. It all makes sense, and it answer my question.

I'm not sure sure about that a lower gain setting provides more headroom. Simply because the gain knob is just for level matching. But if you can provide a link to the article I'll happily read it Nope :-( couldn't find anything...

Hey thanks for explaining that to me. I understand much better, it makes sense too. Where can I find more detailed infromation about this, do you know? I understand what your saying, I would just like to read up on it, to burn time @ work, and learn a little bit lol. Check out David Navone and Richard Clarks's tech pages. Most of them are viewable online, I can't remember where. Maybe carsound or speakerworks. Also alot of info by doing a Google search. Bueno :-)

Hey thanks for explaining that to me. I understand much better, it makes sense too. Where can I find more detailed infromation about this, do you know? I understand what your saying, I would just like to read up on it, to burn time @ work, and learn a little bit lol.

:ughdunno:hmmmmm, alright

So your saying that the output voltage a HU puts out has NOTHING to do with the output of the speakers? So then what is the purpose of an line driver? I'm confused, so by the installer wrongly adjusting his gains after installing a higher rated HU, the output is louder until he readjusts his gains?

I was just wondering. How much or what differnce does the volt rating of a HU make? I know the higher the volt that comes out of the HU, the louder the music plays. But I will like to get a professional response out of this. I.E. If I had an ideal system, lets say one 5-channel amp with all aftermarket speakers and sub. Will the system sound louder if I had an HU with 5v rating, or one with an 8v rating? I'm assuming that the quality build of the HU overall will make the difference at the end. Because with personnal experience, I had an Eclipse HU, that was made in 99 or maybe 98 lol, but the volt rating was 5, thats why I picked it up, but later installed an sony HU, that would allow me to play my ipod, but only had a rating of 2v, and it was made in ~05 and it sounded louder with all the other equipment not changed. Thanks

well right now, Im running two runs of 4 gauge, and I have a volt meter on the dash, but, it doesn't show numbers. It just has a H and a L, and the meter will be in the middle at idle with nothing on. It drops and goes back to normal, unless im at a stop light, and have it up, then it kinda stays low, until i drive again. I drive a 96 explorer, so the battery upfront is pretty big. so where can I buy a dmm? and how much does it cost? If I turn down the bass boost on the amp, then it won't produce any bass

I wired the sub in series to the amp, bridged.

well I have the big 3 done, I have a 80 amp alt, regular batt, using 4 guage wiring, also have a amp for my highs. I have the bass boost 3/4 up on the amp, and on top of the amp, I see the gain label, but there is like, two white things, i can turn them either left or right, but there is no indicator, for me to know how much it is to the left or to the right, that is why it is hard for me to set the gains right also, its not going into protect mode, the light just flickers red for some reason, but it keeps playing normal with no problem.

well I have the big 3 done, I have a 80 amp alt, regular batt, using 4 guage wiring, also have a amp for my highs. I have the bass boost 3/4 up on the amp, and on top of the amp, I see the gain label, but there is like, two white things, i can turn them either left or right, but there is no indicator, for me to know how much it is to the left or to the right, that is why it is hard for me to set the gains right

I have a Arc Audio SE-2150se, and I have it in mono mode, running at 2 ohms to my fully loaded, D1 18'' fi btl. Everything works fine, but I wanted to turn it up this past weekend to show of to my friends, so when I turn up the amp, from 1/4, to 3/4, it sounded much louder. But when I turn it up, the protect mode light will flicker red, just for when the bass drop, now I know this can't be good. It goes back green, but when ever the bass drops, a big one, it will just flicker red for that one second. Can any body tell me why this is, and is it safe to play it that loud? Not daily, I'm not stupid, but whenever I want to show off for a song or two, can I or should I play it loud without damaging the amp? Also, I have a Eclipse 5342r, and whenever the bass is up, it skips the cd player. It is a older model, and the guy who had it before me was using it for his 4 12s. Is it skipping just because its been through a lot, and its a few years old now? Is there any way I can get it to now skip any more? Like, is there any way I can like, open it up, and clean the lense or something like that? I really like this unit, plus its 4v.

No, the voltage isn't dropping too badly, and it recovers rather quickly. I might have the gains too high like you said, last night it was too dark for me to check, I will check today and see, and thanks for the info. I thought I could burn up the power supply in the amp for asking too much power from the amp if it can't provide as much. Yeah you can but it has nothing to do with how many watts the sub can produce. It has to do with you pushing the amp farther than what it is capable by: wrong gain settings, using bass boost or not controlling the volume knob wisely. The sub doesnt tell the amp to give it more power than the amp can handle, the user tells the amp to send out more power than the amp can handle. yeah, that makes sense, but, I the bass boost is off on the head unit, and the bass is set to zero also, I will check the rcas and gains today though, and see what happens, I hope I didn't ruin that amp, because like I said, I smell no burning, and it still comes on, lighting up red and green.

No, the voltage isn't dropping too badly, and it recovers rather quickly. I might have the gains too high like you said, last night it was too dark for me to check, I will check today and see, and thanks for the info. I thought I could burn up the power supply in the amp for asking too much power from the amp if it can't provide as much.

well hey guys, I have bad news. The amp played just fine, for a good 20 minutes. As I was pulling into my apartments, I turned down the volume, and it just stoped playing. It went into protect mode. And now, it keeps flickering in between protect mode and normal mode. Like, the light, will keep fliping, red, red, red, then green, and then back to red repeatedly. After I ran some erands today, and came back home, it came back on, for a split second, and went back into protect mode!!!! I hope I didn't ruin anything, especially a thousand dollar amp. If you guys have any idea, please let me know, should I just take it all back out until I get a bigger amp? or what? The voltage is dropping too badly, and recovers with no problem at all.

i wired it series to the amp, so that would bring it to a 2 ohm load, so it would be 600 watts. I was just wondering if it would be safe or not, since its only 600 watts, I don't want to burn it up, you know what I mean. I hooked it up for a sec without the box, and it moved the sub, a lot actually lol. But like I said, I don't want to strain the amp.