Sencheezy

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Rock on!

Wow! nice collection and good start!!!!

Spaced spider was only required for a certain enclosure design, such as Wedge 4th Order and such. And the new leads are called FOAD

WOW, sucks man! :/ Love the equipment tho!

LOL

Send me the images brother. I got you covered. Also, what is the plans? We need updates. Keep us postd

Great additional information SpeakerBoy, and this is why M5 asks you the question he asks. To get the REAL detail from YOUR specific scenario. He does not treat you as he would treat the masses, he gives person to person advise, which is why he is such a great value to this forum. Now that we know what you are working with, and the tools you have at hand. We can all better provide better suggestions. My take is this. Wait to build your new box. You almost NEVER want to ADD anything, you almost ALWAYS want to take AWAY. Forcing your subwoofer to play harder below tuning is NEVER a good LOL. My suggestion still stands as previously mentioned. Build new box Tuner accordingly, as you stated, lower per listening material. I would suggest 28-30hz. As touched on previously, lower frequencies are felt differently than higher frequencies. But you also want to take into account for Transfer Function, which was previously mentioned. Ok, so imagine this, tuned higher (35hz), your peak in your vehicle, may be at 45hz(this is where you (feel) the most pressure, aka your peak frequency. Now, you want to move that "peak" lower, for your installation. To accomplish this, you need to tuner your enclouser lower, which is a good start, also you need to play with box volume and tuning. Do you see now how big of a role the enclosure plays in this whole never ending equation? lol. So once you tune lower, you will then be able to tune those high peaks a little bet better. So with your available eq, you may have to do, -2 db at 31hz, and -4db at 63hz (me guessing) to achieve your flat 25-60hz Frequency Response that you are after. So again, my suggestion. 7-8cubes, 120-150cuin. I say that much port becuase you have the power. I would probably aim for around 7 though, based on my experience with the BTL, Zcon, and Evil. Once you getter any higher than that, it starts to lose power handling. All of this is my 2 cents. I hope this helps.

Then sell the BTO and your big amp and go smaller. Will allow you a budget to make the front stage work. Hardly need a sub even for SQ. Sure it's important, but hardly comparatively.Power is the last thing you should worry about. Mounting locations and install first. The output is where i'd like it, downgrading would cost me that. It's a better sound i'm after. I am going to at least try several new boxes for the BTL before I make any decision, or i'll never forgive myself for passing up a $250 loaded BTL 18 You are looking for, I fogret the proper term, forgive me, but smoothness. From your sub stage to your front stage. In order to do so, you need to get rid of your dip and values within your sub's output. You will only be able to do this by RTA/software, and with several enclousures. My advice, build large. For the BTL, this would be 8cubes NET, with plenty of port, 120-150 cuin. And tune according coherdinately with your vehicle's Transfer Function. When you have an eq on your sub, you want to bring down the peak with that your port will offer, usally around tuning, so that it blends in well with the rest of the frequency response of your sub's output. Obviously, this will bring down max SPL, but it will definately give you a better sound or the "sq" you are looking for. I hope this helps. RTA will be very ineffective at helping outside of helping to quantify the cabin gain. Going to need a narrow band analyzer though and not a 1/3 octave RTA.First things first though, need to know what to make better. Started subjective and that may be more than enough. I was suggesting that he too utilize an RTA to see his peaks and values within his FR from his sub/enclosure. From there, he can use an eq to drop down the peaks, which inherently, smooths out the overall sound. Is this not the proper way to approach this issue at hand? For the sub bass, you are right, he wouldn't necessarily use an RTA, he could use an SPL meter though, to measure whatever his crossover settings are, or expected played FR, i.e. 20-80hz

Then sell the BTO and your big amp and go smaller. Will allow you a budget to make the front stage work. Hardly need a sub even for SQ. Sure it's important, but hardly comparatively.Power is the last thing you should worry about. Mounting locations and install first. The output is where i'd like it, downgrading would cost me that. It's a better sound i'm after. I am going to at least try several new boxes for the BTL before I make any decision, or i'll never forgive myself for passing up a $250 loaded BTL 18 You are looking for, I fogret the proper term, forgive me, but smoothness. From your sub stage to your front stage. In order to do so, you need to get rid of your dip and values within your sub's output. You will only be able to do this by RTA/software, and with several enclousures. My advice, build large. For the BTL, this would be 8cubes NET, with plenty of port, 120-150 cuin. And tune according coherdinately with your vehicle's Transfer Function. When you have an eq on your sub, you want to bring down the peak with that your port will offer, usally around tuning, so that it blends in well with the rest of the frequency response of your sub's output. Obviously, this will bring down max SPL, but it will definately give you a better sound or the "sq" you are looking for. I hope this helps. RTA will be very ineffective at helping outside of helping to quantify the cabin gain. Going to need a narrow band analyzer though and not a 1/3 octave RTA.First things first though, need to know what to make better. Started subjective and that may be more than enough. I was suggesting that he too utilize an RTA to see his peaks and values within his FR from his sub/enclosure. From there, he can use an eq to drop down the peaks, which inherently, smooths out the overall sound. Is this not the proper way to approach this issue at hand?

Then sell the BTO and your big amp and go smaller. Will allow you a budget to make the front stage work. Hardly need a sub even for SQ. Sure it's important, but hardly comparatively.Power is the last thing you should worry about. Mounting locations and install first. The output is where i'd like it, downgrading would cost me that. It's a better sound i'm after. I am going to at least try several new boxes for the BTL before I make any decision, or i'll never forgive myself for passing up a $250 loaded BTL 18 You are looking for, I fogret the proper term, forgive me, but smoothness. From your sub stage to your front stage. In order to do so, you need to get rid of your dip and values within your sub's output. You will only be able to do this by RTA/software, and with several enclousures. My advice, build large. For the BTL, this would be 8cubes NET, with plenty of port, 120-150 cuin. And tune according coherdinately with your vehicle's Transfer Function. When you have an eq on your sub, you want to bring down the peak with that your port will offer, usally around tuning, so that it blends in well with the rest of the frequency response of your sub's output. Obviously, this will bring down max SPL, but it will definately give you a better sound or the "sq" you are looking for. I hope this helps.

Transfer Function As the Polk/MOMO subwoofers are optimized for acoustic suspension enclosures, we suggest you use this type of design. The acoustic suspension cabinet is a sealed airtight box, and is the easiest box to build. It also is a very predictable enclosure with easily calculated parameters, and it has a smooth natural sound. Properly built acoustic suspension cabinets have a flat frequency response that begins rolling off at 12 dB per octave at the frequencies below its cabinet resonance. This works very well inside a car because of a natural phenomenon called "room gain" that gives you roughly a 12 dB per octave increase in bass frequencies. You can roughly calculate at what frequency this gain begins by using the equation F= 565/L, F is the frequency at which bass gain begins, and L is the longest dimension of your "room." If, for example, you measured the longest dimension of your car as 5.65 ft., the room gain begins at 565/5.65 or 100 Hz. If your goal was perfectly flat frequency response you would design your cabinet for this particular car to have a resonance frequency of 100 Hz. Since most people want more bass than a flat frequency response yields, tuning the cabinet at a lower frequency, say 50 Hz, would give you a gain of 12 dB per octave between 100 and 50 Hz and flat response from 50 Hz down. The larger the cabinet, the lower the resonant frequency, and the lower the efficiency. Two identical systems will sound very different in a Honda vs. a Cadillac. The bigger the car the lower the frequency at which room gain begins. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/61663-knowledge-is-key/ TF is Cabin Gain.That graph isn't 100% liable as each vehicle has a different TF. As noted, please reflect to image below

I wouldn't. First thing that comes to mind is heat. with this much power level, A) it generates a lot of heat, coming from the sub and if he doesn't invert, then even more heat is kept inside the box, this heat can catch fire with the poly lol. And then B) all the pressure would probable blow away the poly through the port, I mean, I guess he could glue it down, but again, I wouldn't advise it.

So, I've worked with zcons, and I've worked with 10" port. To tune low with that port is going to be your biggest challenge. It has to be long, and the box has to be big for a tune around 32hz. Your port area is already given, only thing to change now is tuning and port length. Use this http://www.psp-inc.com/tools.html Also, you want to use 10" minimum for the loading surfaces, and both ends of the port. Keep that in mind as well. Also, be sure you calculate the NET volume. My port takes up a cube by itself.

I don't see the drilled out holes on the lower part of the basket for added cooling. Do you think this won't be an issue. I know some companies use them, some don't.

nice

nice car

Well, with great responses so far from the etho, than just go with the underhung design. Although, more sq people bwould desire the mmag design by the way you described the differences. But at the moment, I believe more people are looking for more bass at a lesser price.

Very impressive wow

When both coils are wired up.. doubt it Quentin stated before if he were to rate these thermally it would be closer to 2500wrms per sub so a ~7k on 5k worth of subs is fine. And like Jon said, can't beat the price to performance! The drivers need 1800 watts to reach xmax in their recommended enclosures. The recommended power ratings I give are what are needed to be operate the sub. I'll never give a max "safe" power level. That's kinda like a car manufacturer saying its ok to run your car right below redline all the time. What was the context of the conversation you mentioned 2,500wrms? I know i remember you saying that. Of course variables in an install can alter suggested power ratings rated on a thermal level and you are rating them differently which is fine but i know you mentioned 2500w before in conversation. Now you got me questioning in what context it was mentioned in. 2500 rms free air on 200hz tone for 20 mins with -2db compression

cheers mate