Florida_Audio

The amp wiring kit is :NVX XKIT84 (100% Copper, 4-Channel True Spec 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit w/ RCA Interconnect and 65 ft Speaker Cable) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_66498_NVX-XKIT84.html This is the amp it will be used with : Hifonics Zeus ZRX1000.4 - 1000W 4-Channel Class A/B Zeus Series Car Amplifier http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1000.4.html Just wondering if that is a good decision? It also comes with speaker wires. Edit: i just read that a 4 gauge amp wire might be better? but is it needed for this? or should this 8 gauge wire be fine? Also the speaker wire it comes with is 16 gauge. Would i need 12 or 14 gauge speaker wire instead? I plan on only using 2 front component speakers for now. Each speaker takes 110 RMS. And later i will bridge 2 channels from my amp to run a subwoofer. So should i try to stay around 500 RMS from all parts?

i dont have any equipment to make the rings. wondering if you can suggest some rings for 6.5 inch speakers that are good enough, even though they are premade?

wow honestly thank you so much for that info! i thought speaker baffles looked like this, like just a cup or something , but what you are showing looks like something else? i thought these were speaker baffles? http://www.crutchfield.com/S-IBEtbKcg9eS/p_696B050330/Boom-Mat-6-1-2-Speaker-Baffles-Regular-3-depth.html but u are saying to get something like these? (bezel rings?) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_95248_Audiopipe-RING-6.5GR.html sorry for the links, but i dont think model number would help for those. whats the difference between bezel rings and baffles? yours look like bezel rings from what ive seen online? i read you should seal the MDF material to make water proof like you said. i am in florida and its pretty humid almost all the time, so i guess thats definitely needed? so, for the sound deadening, ive read you need to do it on both sides of door panel? inside door, and behind the inside. but you also need to clean the inside out with some alcohol first? and sound deadener showdown says to only cover 25% of door. is that for all brands of sound deadening, or just his brand?

wow thanks. ill give him a call when i can. appreciate it !

thanks. what type of speaker wire would i need then? and what do i base the amperage on? the amount from my amp only?

ok thanks. so what baffles would you suggest for my speakers i listed above, if you could please suggest some. and any special way to use the baffle or just put the speakers into it? and what brand deadening would u suggest, or any should be good? and around how much should i be looking to spend on a good amount of sound deadening?

i dont think ill get speaker baffles, because i heard they can hurt the sound a bit? and sound deadening seems expensive, i was thinking i can do it later? around how much would it cost to buy enough sound deadening for just the front doors? is that the only area i should put it?

ok thanks, i guess i will just not hook up the rear speakers to my new head unit. by box you mean the subwoofer? i would probably put it in the trunk, but i honestly have not done much research on the subwoofer yet, because i dont plan on getting on until a few months from now. and when i do look, ill want the cheapest stuff that produces decent quality. id prob look to spend around $100 for the sub and its box? if thats reasonable? the headunit i am getting from alpine, seems to have ALOT of great options to adjust EQ for speakers and subwoofer, that seems really nice to adjust everything. and for where the front speakers will go, i assumed i would just remove where the old speakers were and place the new speakers there, and where the old tweeters were. it looks like my car has some openings above the door handle by the front window, where there can be tweeters installed. where or how else would i install these items? im not sure i have other options? any insight is appreciated. once again, thank you!

i guess i dont really need the rear speakers? i dont plan on getting aftermarket speakers in the rear. i was just wondering if the rear speakers would still work, and/or sound okay with the rest of the setup? im not sure how i should deal with the rear speakers? i heard i dont really need to upgrade them. but not sure if that means i should still try and have them hooked up to play some sound. what do you mean by an enclosure space i would like to use? do you mean, like where do i want to place the subwoofer and amplifier? for the links heres the model number and description of items i want to purchase, let me know if you would suggest something else or any comments on them? i have a 2013 hyundai elantra coupe by the way. Hifonics Zeus ZRX1000.4 - 1000W 4-Channel Class A/B Zeus Series Car Amplifier Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" 2-Way Type-R Series Component Car Audio Speaker System alpine cde 163bt ( not sure if the alpine cde 164bt is any better or different? ) i would like the bridge 2 of the channels on the amp to power a subwoofer later on. and the subwoofer i have no clue yet, i will get one in a few months, but for now i think the amp, front speakers, and stereo should be fine? the amp will just be a low budget one with decent quality, and does not need to be crazy thumping and such.

ur comment is concerning what do u mean by rethink the links and im not ready to shop yet? are these not compatible? will they not work well? i plan on running the front components with the 4 channel amp, and the subwoofer with the same amp. but can i then run the rear factory speakers off the head unit? will this work well? Please let me know, i plan on purchasing these very soon, thank you!

ok thanks. hmmm so if i do only want front and subwoofer. does the subwoofer output have a specific type of output? or can i just get any head unit with 2 preamp outputs? ill probably be getting the subwoofer and box later on. budget reasons for now. but i hope the speakers should be fine for bit of bass, with the amp and EQ how much should the wiring materials cost? i think ive looked them up before, and its around $40 for amp wiring kit, and around $30 for speaker wires to amp?

wow thanks for clear explanation! makes sense, so i do need 2 outputs on my head unit, but you are saying that not many head units have a sub pre out and a front pre out? these are the two i would need, sub pre out and front pre out? i dont need the rear pre out? or would a head unit, with front and rear pre outs, be able to be used for front and sub? wondering if the rear pre out is compatible with a subwoofer? edit: i also am looking at this EQ http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6655_Clarion-EQS746.html looks like it can be used if i get a head unit with only 2 RCA outputs, front and rear? but would the head unit with 3 RCA outputs be easier than installing this EQ? but... would this EQ offer better quality sound and adjustments and be a good upgrade? and this product is a line driver and an EQ, but also seems to have all the outputs needed for front rear and subwoofer? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18601_Hifonics-HFEQ.html ugh.... so lost now, whats the difference between these? and why would someone use these? i do plan on getting an aftermarket head unit, 2 front component speakers, and an amp. and possibly a cheap subwoofer. wondering if either of those 2 items i posted above are useful and why? thanks again!

i want to have good quality sound. loud enough to hear it while driving on the highway with windows down and be happy. but not so loud that its pointless, and too loud. i like clarity. and the bass doesnt have to be booming too loud. i just want the subwoofer to produce bass to i can listen to an overall decent sound so it takes up the lower end of frequency. clean crisp quality bass, nothing overpowering. for space, i i have the whole trunk i can use if needed, i guess, but id dont want to spend too much on the bass, just something "good enough" should be fine to produce okay bass. thank you

ok thanks. what do you mean by goals and space?

i cant figure out how to copy and past this quote to add it to the post i just made? but, im on west coast of florida. Ft myers, Naples, Cape Coral area.

all the local shops that ive called have similar pricing. the shop im speaking about here is priced as 65 to 85 for components amp is 85 head unit is 50 to 65 so $200 to $235 for these total. thats around 55 to 60 bucks an hour if it is 4 hours. i guess maybe that is a good price? its just sort of depressing thinking about how much that all adds compared to the amount i am paying for the parts. the install price, and price of the hardware are pretty close lol.

If i get a head unit with 3 RCA outputs, front, rear, and subwoofer. can i use a 4 channel amp to power 2 front speakers, and the bridge the other 2 channels to power one subwoofer? this amp : http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1000.4.html and these speakers : http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34364_Alpine-SPR-60C.html the amp says says: 4-Channel Class A/B Zeus Series Car Amplifier Max Power Rating: 4 ohms: 125 watts x 4 chan. 2 ohms: 250 watts x 4 chan. Bridged, 4 ohm: 500 watts x 2 chan. the speakers say: RMS Power Handling 110 watts (each speaker) Sensitivity 88 dB Frequency Response 65 - 29000 Hz Impedance (Per Voice Coil) 4 ohms so because the amp says bridged 4 ohm 500 watts x 2 channel. does this mean i can only get a subwoofer compatible for 4 ohm? Now that it says 500 watts x 2 chan, does this mean my speakers will be way overpowered? or can i set the amp to give different watts for speakers and different watts for the subwoofer? do i loose any ability to edit how they sound because they are bridged, like would i loose the ability to adjust any types of controls for either speakers or subwoofer? so im wondering what would be the cons to doing this if its even possible? i should have room to add a subwoofer with this amp, assuming this is possible? Thank you guys! edit: i just briefly read an article about dual voice coils and how they allow you to somehow alter the ohms.... seemed bit confusing, but now that leads me to another question. is single or dual voice coil better for this type of setup with bridging? from what i understand, it seems the dual voice coil options are not needed as long as i keep the ohms the same for the speaker, amp, and subwoofer? as in this case, as long as all are compatible with 4 ohms, it should be fine? these 2 subwoofers seem cheap enough and have decent reviews, not looking for crazy large bass, just something basic to help produce lows. think these would work? one is dual, other is single coil. which is better if they would fit with my other parts listed above? to be honest the single coil is cheaper and prob would fit my budget alot better. what type of box enclosure would i need for these? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12333_Polk-Audio-db840.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16143_Polk-Audio-db840DVC.html

located in florida. im wondering if any users here are in florida and nearby maybe can help me out, and i can pay discounted fee for labor :] also all the local shops want to charge quite alot to install these things. then again this guy said it would take around 4 hours to install 2 component speakers in the front, the head unit, and the amp for the speakers. seems like a bit longer than it should take? would be nice ok thanks. what do you mean by application specifics? maybe i can elaborate on it?

So i am still confused on head units.... So I called the local shop where i want to get my car audio equipment installed at, due to their reviews and prices for installation. But the dude on the phone just told me some concerning things... makes me rethink even going there to get the installation done. Or maybe he is right? He says he has been doing this stuff for many years. I told the guy i wanted to get 2 front component speakers installed, a new head unit, and an amplifier for the speakers. The amp will be 4 channels, to allow for upgrade of 2 more rear coaxial speakers later. And the head unit will be one with 3 outputs, front, rear, and subwoofer. The guy told me that the 3 outputs are not needed at all and too much. He said only 1 or 2 would be fine. i told him i wanted the 3 to allow for a subwoofer and rear speakers later on. he said its still not needed, because only 2 should be needed. He said that the subwoofer output is not needed because you dont normally need to change the subwoofer settings for fade using the head unit if the subwoofer installation is done well? Im not even sure what the fade setting does for subwoofer, i think me mentioned front and back fade or something? is this true? i thought u have to have the subwoofer output so you can actually allow the subwoofer to produce the bass along with the music? someone on this website explained it pretty well to me that i DO NEED the 3 outputs to be able to hook these things up. Also if some1 can tell me how to give you guys a plus 1 for helping me, im more than happy to do it. Someone in my other thread was beyond helpful and id like to +1 if i can?

thanks. i know you say professional help. but i dont want to risk leaving certain decisions up to them. like i feel like they may sometimes give bad advice or suggest something i dont really need, just so they can charge a bit more. also i would like to make sure i understand this as much as possible before going ahead, which i thank you for helping :] yeah speaker baffles are pretty cheap :] hmmm but also heard they can hurt sound quality because they block the back of the speaker for air flow or whatever? and you said to make sure im happy with what i choose. i mean i hope i am. its really hard, if not impossible to really pick out speakers without listening to them? just by reading other peoples reviews of the speakers and what they like or dislike is all im really able to do? and look at the frequency range. not much else to make sure i would like them?

ok thanks alot! once again appreciate all this help. if my sound system comes out bad, i blame you... just kidding :] hmmmm i thought speaker baffles can help with sound quality and protecting the speakers?

sadly i dont really trust myself to do much of these installs. dont want to break something or plug in wrong things. and i do not have any power tools or soldering iron. although i could buy these. but i dont want to risk breaking something and the time it will take to fix it myself. as much sound deadening as i can afford? wow, i thought u only need like one sheet of it behind the door? and should i also place some minor amount of sound deadener in the rear of car, if i dont initially put new speakers in the rear? and would layers of it be better for the front door? how much around would it cost to do it a decent amount? 35 bucks for 8 sq ft : http://www.soundqubed.com/Q-MAT-Speaker-Kit_p_215.html and would i benefit from speaker bezels? or would they not be needed if i get speaker baffles? http://www.amazon.com/RING-6-5BZ-Speaker-Recess-MOUNTING-SPACER/dp/B00K5Q9D7U edit: wow..... just checked out some quotes to install sound deadener, i didnt even bother to ask my local shop for a quote before because i thought it was an easy thing to install... looks expensive... but it seems some places might offer to do it for free or at a large discount if you are already paying for other items to be installed at the same time. so maybe i will wait to get it installed.... but i would appreciate any info about it, so i know for the future, thanks! now i see why u commented about, just get my stuff installed and worry about sound deadener later... lol my bad.

thanks. i do like to read, as long as i can understand most of what im reading the speakers say to use 4 ohms? id assume setting amp to 2 ohms would be bad for them? but also why is it now +/- 25, before it was +/- 50? also, if im having a local shop help put speakers in, shouldnt i ask to put baffles and or sound deanening in as well at the same time, so as to make the job easier, since they are already in the door panel and have the speakers out and such?

not sure where i would ask this question, i couldnt really find a sub forum here for it but im curious about the member reputation point system? how it works? any threads here explaining it? thanks

This is the exact 4ch amp I used for a long time and still actually have. It will solve your concerns about the RMS ratings to power your choice of components, if it's still in your budget. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1000.4.html If a set of components says it runs 110 watts MAX that means you can expect no more than half of that wattage during normal and constant use. RMS ratings are there to show how many watts amps/speakers will actually be running/using. It's the same with amp ratings. If an amp says it runs 5 million watts "MAX", it really will only be running 2 and 1/2 million watts or less the majority of the time. Cheap amps and speakers list there "MAX" ratings to make the amp or speaker seem powerful to users who don't understand RMS ratings. -it's good to have extra power, you don't have to use it all...it will not damage your speakers if you dial the amp down to the wattage the speaker needs which will actually provide a cleaner signal. You have much learning ahead of you! Most of it should be through reading. ok thanks. so do you think the type R alpines are trying that hard to make it seem like they are better than they really are? or every speaker has their max RMS listed anyway, so any speaker listed at 110 RMS is still running half that most of the time anyway? its sort of hard to find unbiased and knowledgeable info online. i see alot of things claiming one thing, and then others saying its not true. know of any good websites that have legit articles to learn from? also if the speakers say up to 110 RMS would i set the amp to around 100 RMS? or set it to just 55 RMS? i do still appreciate all the help you have been giving :] wondering if i may ask you to check the last post on the previous page, to see if you have any feedback for that as well? thanks again!