JimJ

It's not the product's fault when you send 2 times the recommended power to the woofer and it fails...I'd call that user error

?

I wish I could say about what I know they have...was in their R&D facility less than an hour ago. Hey, newer stuff is good, just drives the price down for the lower-capacity drives

Off to marketing. Should be on the 'hop in there...

I see Seagate has a 1TB internal now...maybe next year the price will drop to a point where it'll be nice...

Hmmm....at this rate I'll have my music collection back to where it was before the crash in about two weeks

?

If you're looking at 15's and 18's and want sealed, the Q line would be perfect for you. SSD's are only recommended in sealed for the 12's and 10's.

http://www.classicrecs.com/ - Classic Records, I only have experience with their 200g vinyl but they have a lot of 24/96 CD releases... The best way to find labels like this is to pick up a copy of Stereophile or The Absolute Sound, every month they always have either reviews of CD's from audiophile-type labels or ads from them...

No.

The Crown Vic (at least stock) is one of the few things I've driven that handles worse than the vans Way too much understeer for me to get used to. But they're fun on the highway, in straight lines... Different engines, different rear ends...probably other things changed but I don't know off hand.

Burn it... You'll go to pick it up and he'll blame the Feds for burning it... I admit, for a wacko he had decent taste in a car.

Yes.

If you want to have a chance to play anything remotely musical, yes.

Would be fine, as long as you know where the volume limits are and not clip it.

Telarc does a good job with The Planets, IIRC theirs is the Atlanta Symphony Orchestra. I can't remember which version the MoFi one is, but I had it before my hard drive crashed and it sounded pretty good as well. I hear amazing things about the Vienna Philharmonic's version, but that was done in the '60s for Decca and I'm not sure if it was ever put on little shiny disc...

Totally dependent on your install.

There's no reason to. I don't get why people feel they have to run the maximum RMS power that the driver is rated to...unless you have a tiny, tiny, tiny, tiny sealed enclosure, you're going to get great results well before you even come close to maximum rated power. A lot of the posts you see in here about people needing recones, melting tinsel leads, etc...stems from this, I'd bet. It's certainly not the speaker's fault.

They're only sold at http://www.ficaraudio.com... I don't think you're concerned with that.

increase huh? lol just for the record I used Knu conceptz lowest cable then stepped up to there next quality and I noticed no difference in sound, only a difference in build quality I don't care if I was bill gates I would not pay that much for cable, DMR goes out the window at 1K lol He said he had to reduce his gains, the only way that would be required is if the preout voltage changes

I'm still confused with amps and wiring, I thought I'd need 2000 watts to power these subs? 1000 watts a piece per sub right? Wouldn't 1400 be underpowering them at 700 watts a piece at best? You don't need a kW to power a Q. When I auditioned one, 700W was perfect... The amp works the same whether or not the gain setting is set at full, or barely turned.

Either the '29s or the '30s...ask him. I know they make one in that price range.

Matt's Morels sounded nice to me...

The footprint is really what sold me on a design like this or Spawn of Frugel Horn. Especially because I need to get it up a stairwell

Weird...never happened to me before. Do you have the latest updates?