JimJ

I figure Derek would like the name anyway...

I entered, but WTH is "high definition stereo"? Sounds like some good marketneering

Free air? Nope...but infinite baffle perhaps. I'd be worried about off-axis response and how high you can cross over without sounding like ass...there are plenty of other 8's that won't have any issues and probably fit easier.

A little...

What other subs? How?

For $500 and 3-way, you are. You can easily spend an equal amount or more on crossover parts than the drivers themselves. Especially in a 3-way where you have low crossover points that require big (read: expensive) inductors. Best bet is to go with used vintage stuff if you want to stay in that price bracket...or go two-way. You could pick up a pair of older full size Magnepans or Vandersteen 2C's for that price, and I'd rather have something like that than a compromised design to fit under that price limit.

Seas and Vifa both make small format silk domes for under that price. Madisound stocks them.

TOTL = top of the line

*sniffles* SIN was the first forum I was on that had people I respected...Josh, Derek, Marshall, Claudia, Loyd, etc etc...hell, I remember trying to meet up with Greer when I first moved up here, but he showed up late and I missed him

That'd be the only kind of install I'd consider for the RL-s, it seems perfect for it.

That's pretty neat. Listening to a movie soundtrack on that would be an experience

Major ice cream headache

Dave doesn't have a random orbital, he has one of those hand sanders with a vibrating base-thingy...not sure the actual name for it. I just need it to take down about 1/16'th on the front edges and 1/8'th on the top. I've got a random orbit at home but I don't think I have any paper for it...pretty sure it's a Bosch actually. Not sure how I want to finish them yet... It's a mouse finishing sander , just about the only electric sander I have. I have 6 or 7 random orbital sanders, but they are all air powered Do you have a flush trim bit in the router stuff you brought over? I'm thinking that might be easier than sanding down the overlap on the front...not sure if it'd work with the ply without tearing it apart though...

What organization are you competing in? Do you need to build for any specific class? That's really going to determine how much cone area you end up with...

Like I asked over in your other thread, what does better mean to you? Louder? Sounding accurate?

I can't really speak for SPL subs, as I'm not an SPL competitor, but... You need to pick a driver that's going to work well with the type of enclosure you're going to be using. If you only have room for a small sealed box, going with a speaker that has a large Vas and an EBP (Fs/Qes) over 100 probably isn't your best choice. If you want a driver that can deal with transients very well, avoid high inductance designs. Lots of linear travel is required in something like an infinite baffle or sealed enclosure, but in a horn or transmission line Xmax doesn't matter anywhere near as much. Basically, it's all one huge compromise. You just have to pick what it is you can give up, in exchange for something else...

Dave doesn't have a random orbital, he has one of those hand sanders with a vibrating base-thingy...not sure the actual name for it. I just need it to take down about 1/16'th on the front edges and 1/8'th on the top. I've got a random orbit at home but I don't think I have any paper for it...pretty sure it's a Bosch actually. Not sure how I want to finish them yet...

Goal is to get them rough sanded and get the cabs and suprabaffles routered out on Thursday. Got to go home for the finish nailer, should have a completed set of BIB's by next week...

This one didn't come out as square as I wanted today Going to be making friends with the sander on Thursday...

Old Minis are very cool. Wouldn't even try to drive one on the highway here, but on an empty road they'd be a blast...

More reasonably what? SPL takes up space, sorry to tell you...especially with 1400W.

If you're interested in SPL, ditch the sealed enclosure and go ported...

It'll definitely sound better than what you have, that's for sure.

Sealed enclosures generally allow you to run more power than ported, though if you're well over recommended without knowing what your signal looks like I'd be worried regardless.

Totally depends on the intended use. Xmax as a singular spec really isn't all that important. You have to put it in context, depending on the situation it might not matter much...