RaTtLz

I am ordering a Soundstream Rubicon 2500 Class D Rubicon Mono Channel Amplifier RMS Power: 1 x 1700 Watts @ 2 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 2500 Watts @ 1 Ohm THD: 0.50% Frequency Response: 15Hz - 150KHz S/N: 95dB Damping Factor: >350 Sensitivity: 100mV - 2V or 2V - 8V Low Pass Filter: 50Hz - 150Hz @ 12dB Bass Boost: 0- 18dB @ 45Hz Subsonic Filter: 10 - 40Hz @12dB Phase Control: 180 Dash Mounted Remote Gain Control Dimensions: 20.875" (L) x 8" (W) x 2" (H) Midnight Blue Finish w/ Brushed Accents Regulated MOSFET Pulse Width Modulated Power Supply Three-Way Protection Circuitry (Thermal, Short, Impedance) Twin Stack Technology TM (strap amps together for double power) Delayed On/Off Circuit Pre-Amp Output 0 Ga. Power Terminals 8 Ga. Speaker Terminals That should work nice for my titanium elites

Hi guys, within the next couple weeks I'll be getting my new amp that is a mono with only 1 set of speaker inputs (1 + and 1-). I have 2 speakers. Any ideas on how to mate the wires with the amp? My thought was to just get a couple of distro blocks instead of cramming wires into the amp. Thanks For all you info freaks I will be wiring it this way: (4 ohm-----4 ohm) (4 ohm----4 ohm) (2 ohm) (2 ohm) (1 ohm) Another possibility that just came to mind is putting ring terminals on then bolting them together. what about just soldering all the leads pos. leads together then heat shrink (same with the neg. side)? Just brainstorming here. I know its best to have as few "joints" in the connection as possible.

Thats brilliant man!

I know building another sealed box is easy just 4 panels and 2 12" holes in one Technically, a box needs 6 panels (they need sides too). lol Just goofing on you Good luck with your build

Damn, better give me a map! I meant to say montevideo is on hwy 212 straight east of you. goes to show ya how often i get out of my cave. Nope no relitives in luverne that i know of anyways. btw, you done with that van yet?

cool thanks! whats up man! where are you at??? Straight north in Watertown! my kid and her mom lived up there for a while... Dashboard sometimes has 1 or 2 comps a summer here... if I get this done before one you should come check the show whats up man! where are you at??? Straight north in Watertown! sweet man I'm an hour away from watertown. I'd definitely love to make a trip to talk shop with ya! Love the build so far!! where you at? heck yess... I hate dashboard but I got a buddy that worked there for a while and he opened his own shop in Luverne MN.. once this build is done I'm gonna pop in on him and find out what i gotta learn to compete. Just for fun, see what I can get. Sorry I have taken so long to reply. havent been at my desk in a couple days. Anyhow, I'm in Montevideo about an hour straight east of you on highway 7. Ya Luverne is a cool place I go through there to visit my grandma. So when I get some time I'll let you know and we can get together

depends, in all honesty, one tiny air leak isn't going to make any audible difference. Let alone several tiny air leaks. None of that is audible. I strongly disagree. Have you ever even heard a leaky sealed enclosure? Was gonna make a smartassed comment but...........I got nothing

Hi everyone, just had a question about competitions. Is there a general rule where you cant sit in your vehicle at a certain db level? I'm talking about hearing safety. I may want to carry that over into my daily driver practices.

What's up cranberryyumyum? Yes I am from Minnesota, Ya sure You betcha

Thanks Man!

Lets say my box called for 1 inch mdf. Couldn't I just take (2) 1/2 inch and cork the middle? Mostly for a cost effective measure Why are you wanting to do this though? - Whats your goals dude? Well this is my first box build and I am a little "ocd" when it comes to research. Gotta learn everything about boxes so I get the best possible box for my money. I also wanted that "oh wow" factor when I discuss my build or let people in for an audition. Thats about it. So, in summation, I would say my goals are best sound quality at the price I can afford while still having a cool "wow" factor. Knowing that a box is just a little piece of the sound quality equation. Gotta start somewhere.

Lets say my box called for 1 inch mdf. Couldn't I just take (2) 1/2 inch and cork the middle? Mostly for a cost effective measure

Hey bigjon, thanks for the quick reply. I was reading up on resonant frequency of enclosures. I am not the brightest bulb in the chandelier, but I was under the assumption that the more an enclosure is acousticaly dead the flater the response of the speaker. I am talking about sealed enclosures so i am not sure if this would apply to ported boxes or not.

Since my local box builder seems to think he needs $270 to build my sub box I decided to tackle it myself. I have been reading up on box building when I came across a forum that suggested making a box panel that sandwiched a layer of cork inbetween 2 layers of mdf. Another suggestion was to use sand inbetween 2 layers. As the latter isn't feasible, I am interested in the cork option since it is fairly cheep. I understand that the cork is supposed to help dampen the box. Has anyone utilized this practice? Or are they blowing smoke? They also suggested using dynamat instead of cork, but that seems a bit pricey.

whats up man! where are you at??? Straight north in Watertown! sweet man I'm an hour away from watertown. I'd definitely love to make a trip to talk shop with ya! Love the build so far!!

I had a pair of 15 in type r's and they hit stoopid loud on 1000 watts each

Thanks OldSkool, I can't wait to get them powered up! I'll check pound the sound.

1. the subs are my phoenix gold titanium elites. 2. I am having a hard time accepting that ported boxes are more than just 1 note wonders. Plus ported boxes take up so much room. You are correct Bangin', If I were to brace a box, where would I place the bracing and would I need to look out for anything. (pics are a plus)

HI everyone. I come with another question. I know there are probably many variables but I was wondering if there is a general guideline as to when bracing is required for a sub box. Lets say for instance my sub is a 12 that requires a sealed 1 ft.cu. box with 1 inch mdf. It will be fed 1500 watts rms. Would I need to brace this box? does it make a difference if the box is sealed or ported? Thanks!

my experience with noobs happen to be in a well known brick and morter electronics store where i was shopping for speaker wire. keep in mind it was for the surround speakers in my home theater. the just had real small gauge (like 14 ga.) i asked if they had any larger cause i was running several feet. she said, "heres some 16 gauge".... strike 1. i then had to explain that as the numbers got smaller the gauge of the wire gets larger. ok so they didnt have anything for me in the home dept. so i asked if they had any bigger wire in the car audio section. her reply was "no that wire uses different ends"! i politely said thank you and walked away. had a good chuckle all the way home

Ok, my dumb ass can't figure this out. I have a pair of dual 4 ohm 12's. If I wire each sub in series to make 8 ohms then wire the 2 subs together to get 4 ohms, would that mean a pair of strapped 1500d's will see 2 ohms each? Thanks for any input!

Before I read how to properly set amp gain (from this forum). I had a Phoenix Gold Ms1000 that had a bass boost knob and an led for clipping. It seemed I could turn the bass knob up and the led light would come on. I didn't know much back then and I didn't really understand clipping was bad, but I just loved how the bass was soooo awesome I left it with a pretty much full on clip. Needless to say I was driving down the road one day and my system stopped. I went back to check it out and I saw my beloved amp on fire. Turns out The amp was so starved for power it got too hot and pooof. Possibly from both incorrect gain setting and bass knob fun. I thought since I had the Rockford amp laying around I may try to sell it and wanted the package to be complete. I have thought about using it but I think I will search the forum for the pros and cons of bass knobs. Thanks for all the replies guys!

Thanks Brandon, I will start looking.

I have an older Rockford 1100@2 amp with a remote gain bass knob. The cable for the knob has long since disapeared. I have used a telephone cord in the past but not sure if I am getting all of the gain. The knob has 6 wires for the pot, whereas, the phone cord only has 4 wires in the connector. The knob is rated 0-18 db slope at 45 hertz. Any help is appreciated

Thanks guys, your answers were really helpful. Am I then correct in assuming that if the 2000d does 2000w RMS at 1 ohm at 200 amps max. (so says the pre-sale section), I can expect the 1000w RMS at 2 ohms (again the pre-sale section) at 100 amps on average? Doing the simple equation, Volts x amps = watts, 14*75=1050. The method to my madness here is that I'm trying to find a true 1000w rms mono amp that can run at 2 ohm for a couple of reasons. the first is that the amp would run cooler making it more efficient by not wasting current due to heat loss. the second would be its easier on my electrical. pulling 1000 watts on 75-100 amps and 12-14 volts is pretty decent in my book. Feel free to criticize and point me in the right direction. I am sure the 2000d is just what im looking for. If there are other suggestions on amps please voice those as well.