threedd97

Ohhhhh, that's what the pr represents. Okay, thanks for clearing that up for me.

Okay. I'm just confused a little because on the site it says: CL-60 6.5"” 2-way component system Technical specs and contents: •1 pr CL-6 6.5” cast mid woofer •1 pr HD-2500 18dB 2-way crossover •1 pr EU-20 3/4” swivel silk tweeter Like it leads me to believe that there is only 1 of each item. But if that's the price for a set, then I will step up a little.

I want these: http://cdtstore.com/cl_series/cl60.htm Do I have to buy 2 sets? I'm a little confused as to how to purchase this. If I choose quantity of 1, does that mean I just get 1 6.5, tweeter and xover? So would I have to choose a quantity of 2?

I checked everything but the fuse. I don't know why that slipped my mind to look at it. Everything is as solid of a connection as it can be. Thanks for the help everyone! Really appreciate it. Thanks especially to you, Shag. Your insight on it being loose was an immense help

This is quite embarrasing. That was what the problem was. It was loose...

Uh that's a very good point... it wasn't completely tight when I went to unscrew it. I thought I had it tight when I last removed it.

I only found this because I was removing the amp to send in to Arc Audio for repairs and then saw the fuse and was hoping it was just the fuse all along. But I suspect the amp is the culprit and still needs repairs.

So maybe a shorted output transistor in the amp is to blame for the burns?

Could this be why my amp cuts on and off and goes into protect? I didn't pay it any attention before because the filament or whatever is in the center wasn't broken.

I've only heard it happen on radio. He didn't test a cd. Yeah they are all through the hu. It's a dual that's 3 years old so this is expected.

When my friend turns up the volume on his head unit, his door speakers cut out. It sounds like a skipping cd. They will cut back on and then right back off. Setup: Infiniti 6.5 in front Cheap dual 6x9s in rear Dual XD 7500

Fi 15" btl. Jk. Of the two I'm sure either one is a great choice. Go with the one that's in stock. Get it faster.

Haha. Sounds like how I get with computers and my car audio equipment. Usually frustration leading to excessive force never works for me though!

This one looks awesome too! Subscribed to this log for sure. Fantastic work under the hood guys. When you had the old harness yanked out, I'm pretty sure my brain stopped working. Too much for me

This build was awesome to read through. Worth losing sleep over before class in the a.m. Everything looks so nice. I really liked the substage install and the clean wiring. I need to make the hour drive over to p-cola and have you hook me up with a nice wiring install . Again, great job on the entire project! You guys have a real talent for it.

The new Pioneer Avics are really nice. I like my P4200 a lot.

I did some research on bcae1 and it sounds like it could possibly be a failed transistor. Sometimes the LED will be solid green, but no movement or sound from the sub. Sometimes it will go into protect mode and from what I gather, the code it's giving out means there is a short. Plus when I turned off the preouts from the headunit to the amp, I sometimes here a loud noise from the sub that lasts a fraction of a second. As soon as I heard that happen I disconnected the sub from the amp and pulled the inline fuse. I guess I'll have to spend some more money and wait even longer for the amp to be repaired now.

I checked it. It was already scraped clean.

Yeah I wrote arc audio an email and see what they say. I'll probably send it in to see if it's a problem with the amp and get it fixed.

Maybe it's the remote wire? The audio place I went to ran the remote wire to the 12v power outlet with a 10a fuse because I had the stock radio for last install. I wonder if it's this because sometimes the amp won't even turn on.

That doesn't help me... I know enough about setting gains to know it's not wrong and shouldn't be going into protect. Like I said I ran this amp for 6 months and it never did it. The only thing I did different was turn off bass boost.

Well the ground is the same as it has always been and it didn't do this before. Why would it start up now?

Well I checked it on my break and it looks fine. The ground is connected to the seatbelt base. Although the base looks like it's painted black. But the ground hasnt changed since my last install and this didn't happen before.

My electrical is stock, but I've never had this amp do this before. Or any other amp. I wonder If I damaged it somehow.