jellyfish420

here is the impedance graph between the rl-p and the dbx. you think my 1 ohm stable amp will be ok dipping to .75 on occasion?

here is some quick porn. i'll get some better up later..... http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos/Sou...dbextreme.1.wmv

IMO 1200 would be fine for daily. as long as your not dumb w/ it

try this. that was the SUB from my crappy surround sound. i cut the adapter plate and threw that bish in there till i get mine back.

hell yea!!! 50ft spool of 16ga for the componants did you notice on the second pic on this page. the crappy 5.25 in my driver kick. i had to send one back to RE, and i needed something to put in there. it just sounded so lopsided w/o it

i was feeding mine 750, man i would of loved to give them more

MORE PICS!!! see it don't look that bad : the second pic... i didn't account for the dash coming down that far. so the 3rd, you can see i patched in a piece of material. and now were back in the running. p.s. i did all that cutting w/ a pair of sissors

naw... i'll probably do like 3-4 layers of mat, and i'll hit the glass w/ the da before i even do the filler.

i think it was like $50. it is what was left over from my boss' kids box i did for the 2 RE 8's. he told me i could keep it, cause he didn't know how to fiberglass. what he didn't realize was it was the 2nd UNOPENED gallon. LOL so i got a whole gallon for free. when i do buy it i go to the boat store w/ a gallon bleach bottle and they fill it for $35

chit! i've emailed RE several times about several different things. and i have yet to recieve 1 reply!

got on one layer of matt. notice a couple of stratigicly placed air bubbles they are kinda bridging the gap between wrinkles. the next layer will strengthen the bubble. i'm feelin better now, they're starting to take shape

venting into the carpet is more or less aperiodic and venting into the fender well is more or less IB. i have the RE 6.5 mids. i don't know how they would perform best anyone know?

supa..no its not fleece. the fleece wasn't working for me. thats a curtain :ph34r: no mold of the floor, cause these aren't gonna be on the floor. that is the factory kick panel. i couldn't pull it super tight, actually i left it kinda loose. cause the factory panel is kinda flexible. and if i would of pulled it tight and glassed it. the factory panel would of warped, and i would of never got it back on the car i use 3M spay adhesive. i haven't found anything that works better.

i ran into some problems today. stretching the fleece turned out to be a bit(h!!! i covered it in resin, let it sit for an hour and came back out to check it. it wasn't even drying a little bit. so i mixed up some more resin w/ like 3-4 times as much hardener than needed and painted that over top to harden all of it. i got done, and not even a min later the resin in my cup started boiling! i never seen it do that before. it was kinda cool. anyway, they're not looking to pretty right now, i got a few wrinkles. when the resin was almost dry i tried to pull as many of the wrinkles as i could up to the center of the ring so i could just cut them out. in the second pic you can see where i had to cut the material, and piece it together.

ya i'm using it..sorry i got the fleece wrapped this morning... it was hard as fu(k. i'll have pics later.

i seen it somewhere...i just don't remember where

when building kick panels for 6.5 comps would it be better to leave it sealed or to cut a hole and vent them into the inner fender. what is the sound diff in the both. thank you.

there won't be any air that leaks around the tweet? do i caulk the tweet in. second question...should i cut a hole in the factory kick panel, as if to vent it into the inner fender, sort of IB...

i'm workin on it :ph34r: i've got a few things already. given the same power...well a little more to the soundstreams, cause they're wired .5ohm vs the rl-p at 1ohm. pros: the soundstreams are louder. the little bit i've heard, the lows have more authority. cons: the basket is wider than the rl-p's. it took me a good 1/2 hour in my hot@ss car w/ a little dremel tool grinding away at my holes so they'd fit. the surrounds are so much taller that i can't listen to them w/ the seats up. the rl-p's i could have them fully excurting and not touch the seat. but the soundstreams touch the seat not moving and unfortunatly i've been moving stuff tonite and had to have the seat up

i don't know about the idmax...but the rl-p doesn't like to be abused as some of my other subs did.

i'm redoing them. the tweet is gonna be in them this time and i'm molding them to the actual kick panel from the car.... one question though...should i seal of the backside of the tweeter hole? or just leave it like that?

i traded my $500 gift certificate for these 2 db extreme soundstreams. they seem to be a little bit beefier than the RL-p's they are ran to a .5 ohm final load. my amp seems to be doing ok, w/ impedance rise i expect it to be around 1ohm. i'll graph it later to make sure. the basket is about 1/8-1/4" bigger on the dbx's. well here's the pics.....

i got that graph from the man himself, mike. after he gets some chit straightened out hes gonna redo the SS site with all the graphs for the RL-p's just like he did for the RL-i's. so just be patient

Technically a smaller box would be "sloppier". The larger you go, the more overdamped it becomes (lower Qtc), which tightens up transient response and such. Go too large and you can get what's called "critically overdamped"....which most people wouldn't enjoy the sound of as it would be "dry" and "lifeless".... But...one thing I've noticed is that the Rl-p drivers don't model well in most programs/calculations (atleast the 12's)....you may be better off sticking with SS's recommended range. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> but figuring the q, there is nothing really to model.either way i'm awaiting mike's email back. i will post his responce to the question when i get it. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I was just pointing out that a larger box wouldn't be sloppier <{POST_SNAPBACK}> good call for squeak! i think i'm gonna go w/ the bigger box, so if it don't suit my needs... i can just slap some ports in it, instead of rebuilding the whole thing

mikes response: Both the 3.25 cu ft and the 2 cu ft net volumes will work, but in all honesty the response difference between the two will be quite minimal. Attached you will find the leap graph for the RL-p15 exhibiting the relative differences. The Butterworth (magenta solid) box is 2.1 cu ft net volume. The Bessel (tan dashed) box is 3.55 cu ft net volume. The Enhanced Q (green dotted) is 0.95 cu ft net volume. Essentially, you are asking for a comparison between the Butterworth and Bessel alginments, which as evidenced in the attached image, follow each other quite closely. I do not think that a 2 cu ft box will be much more peaky than a 3.25 cu ft box at all to tell you the truth.