jellyfish420

Technically a smaller box would be "sloppier". The larger you go, the more overdamped it becomes (lower Qtc), which tightens up transient response and such. Go too large and you can get what's called "critically overdamped"....which most people wouldn't enjoy the sound of as it would be "dry" and "lifeless".... But...one thing I've noticed is that the Rl-p drivers don't model well in most programs/calculations (atleast the 12's)....you may be better off sticking with SS's recommended range. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> but figuring the q, there is nothing really to model.either way i'm awaiting mike's email back. i will post his responce to the question when i get it.

ya, i think i'm just gonna go sealed. i have a q though...a q of .707 is the flatest response and the lowest F3, using all the calculators i found said this would be around 3.25ft per driver. would there be anydraw back from doing around 3ft per as opposed to the 2ft that is recommended other than a little lower power handling? this way if i wanted to port it later i could just add the ports, instead of rebuilding the entire box to make up for port displacement.

the grills don't fit. i first made these for my cdt cl-6x's which didn't have grills. i was thinking about just taking the mid out and painting the ring black.

Are you kidding CB? That shifter is awesome! Jelly has mad style. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> why thank you. i like my shifter too. here is some better res pics... maybe if your lucky i'll clean the shifter up and get a pic of it too

i've been there before when i smell the glue is when i shut it off for a while.

bottom: top: caps & transformers: transistors & heatsink:

the shop up the road wants $70 just to look at it. so i'm probably just gonna try my luck. what would normally go wrong in an amp that comes on, but has no output?

ps its HEAVY. i threw it on the scale and its about 35lbs.

i got this from my boss. he said it worked great, but when he went on vacation he unplugged it. (in case of storms) and when he plugged it back in, it didn't work. it was free, i'mma take it to the shop up the road and see what it'll cost to fix. it was free so i couldn't pass it up. the back says 350W. does anyone know anything about it? is it any good? well here's the pics...

thats looking really good! gotta question. how far does the window go down?

thats what i thought... OMG that cone is havin sex w/ the phase plug

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5781162501&rd=1 it looks strikingly similar to the first proto LMT or the famous uber...

wow that site told me that i need a MIN of 179in^2 port area but w/ the calculator i was right 4-4" ports would be 1.7ft @ 42Hz. and w/ 1 port plugged its 1.9ft @ 35Hz. all ports being 25.5" long. how do you guys feel about subs up and ports forward?

i found this. looks to be pretty nice http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=164

i think i found a way to do a fiberglass ported box it'll be 2.9ft^3 net @ 34Hz w/ 3-4" ports. per sub w/ a 4th 4"port that has some sort of plug so for a comp i can unplug it for 2.6ft^3 net @ 42Hz. hey kent if you could, double check this for me. 2.9ft after all displacements 3-4" ports @ 34Hz....how long do you come up with? i get ~26"

well i've been wanting spl, spl, but as my system gets better i find myself listening to less rap, and more rock. and i've always loved double kick drum. you heard that new system of a down? lots of double kick. the sealed would be considerably faster and tighter w/ that type of music, right? as for the fiberglass ported. the only way i have enough room for the 2 ported is w/ my half wall box, and that needs to be built inside the car. but the sealed i could do out of the car....i don't know what i wanna do i'm just throwing around some ideas right now...

i'm thinking of going sealed. it'll be around 2-2.5ft per sub. my question is how much output will i lose? ported only adds 3db, right? will the better sq be worth it? in your opinions? the main reason for the switch is it'll be easier to do than the huge ported and that tc gave me some ideas for a kick@ss fiberglass install

you cant tell from the pic, but all the dots on the dice are painted chameleon the one 6.5 seems to have as much midbass as the pair used to have. it is also more full sounding, there is no hollowness to it anymore i'm in the process of building new kicks. w/ the tweeter by the mid. i'm gonna raise them off the floor this time, and glass them to the panels thats there. this was mainly to see how the "hole" sounded, and see how i liked the yellow.....i like it

before..... after.... well i had to send one of my 6.5's in to RE so i decided it would be a perfect time to mess w/ these. i had a couple of gouges where the screw driver had hit it. i also added about a 2" hole in the back of each one. i haven't got to here both of them together but from what i can tell, the one 6.5 has as much midbass as the both of them together...

12's or 15's?

very clean, very clean!!! i like it alot!! what do you have running the subs? what are the specs on the box. again, NICE install!

i got one...and no i don't live in LA but its a very helpfull piece of equipment..might wanna pick one up.

no way am i stupid enough to do that. after a real good beating the other day i noticed that i could barely touch the cone...i was just making sure this was the norm

how hot should the cone get? after wanging pretty hard tonite for some reason i decided to feel the cone. i couldn't even keep my hands on them. i unstand that the vc produces heat and aluminum will "wick" the heat away from the "vc" which don't get me wrong, is a good thing. but how how does everyone else get?