Smanleyman

ohh ok I get you... no 13.5 is across and 12 is up, 13.5 up includes top and bottom wood... I guess I can change 7 to 5.5 since the sub is 6.25 mounting depth minus .75 from wood... and then I should shorten it maybe 12-14 inches to include the sub chamber(So maybe 17 deep)?

not 100% what you mean... Do you mean the "chamber" where the sub is in should be smaller? This was the only thing I wasnt sure about since with a 6.25 mounting depth I cant really make this a true TL... should I make the line shorter to account for the volume where the sub sits?

Any opinions?

The Q is also a great choice I have the "stock" 15" with 1500 watts and love it...

Im assuming this mini van doesnt have any electrical upgrades, and if he gets a btl he will want more power one day to really push the sub. I say go with the BL just so there is no temptation in the future to get a new amp then need more electrical backup, plus IMO the BL would be louder, but I dont have personal experience... and yes the BL is better, there may be a Hz or two that the l7 may hit louder, but all around BL>>>L7

I want to try out a transmission line box or quarter wave, whatever its technically called, and want to know if im off to a good start... I want to use a 10" Fi BL Dual 1 so 41.5fs with an sd of 310cm^2 = 48in^2 1130/41.5/4*12 = 81.7 inches... so my design looks something like this... I dont know much about these kind of boxes it just sounds like a fun project, If it turns out horrible I only lose a few hours and a little off my wood stockpile...What do you guys think about this design and these measurements?

so I really think I wanna stay fi, so the bl would be the way I go... how much power would I be safe with on one 10" bl with p chamfer, and how much more could I add with flatwind?

yea isnt the z series made form rare earth magnets like neod...ium... whatever lol, expensive stuff I can only imagine how amazing they are (and expensive gulp) if he claims probably better than any sub ever made, and I would believe that so thats why cerwin vega isnt as good anymore... I love learning things!

of course... but 2000 watts is potentially louder than 500 watts, and if a sub cant handle 2000 watts and another one can, well im going to go with the one that takes more power, as long as its sensitivity isnt like... 75 btw scratch the btl idea i forgot it was a burp only design...

I guess to make what im looking for a little easier, Im hoping to have a single 10" as loud as or at least as close as possible as my 15" q in 4^3, using half the space or less, and I know most 10's can shine in under 2^3... Im thinking the old btl10 off an AQ2200d may do the trick.. if I can find one???

yea the 99z 10 is amaaaaaazing, but how many thousands does it cost...? lol Its tempting to hunt down an old btl because I really love my Q and havent heard any other companies that are actually good, so the comfort level is there, but I trust reviews in these forums enough to know how good other companies are... just dont get to hear them...

thor - better(louder/more handling) than an fi BL with options?

thor I was thinking of two aqhd310s with an aq2200d for my next setup, but then I thought how BA it would be to only have one ten that could handle the 2200d at 1ohm, and plus it would take up much less space... The mayhem doesnt have a 10" Those revos look nice how do they compare to dd 95 series? sensitivity looks low but xmax is up there I dont know how these parameters affect output as well as other people do... Google didnt help me at all with the shocker sig...? Its sad because honestly, Kicker solo x has a 10 that looks like it can handle tons of power... and I HATE kicker... Thanks for ideas so far guys keep them coming please

what do you think could potentially be the loudest 10" in virtually equal setups and handle maybe 1500 daily or a 2000ish burp? Does anyone know how much DC level 4 XL's or dd 9500's are going for in the 10"?

after taking a moment to contemplate all the possible uses of duct tape... lol... what exactly should I try with it?

Ok I've been looking around a lot and the beefiest 10" I can find is the dc level four xl, with 1500rms that is probably underrated... I dont know prices but are there other 10" above 1000rms that dont break the bank? I really wish fi made a 10" btl but that magnet is HUGE... Im considering a single 10" for primarily spl purposes but the better it sounds the happier I am ... so any suggestions?

the 45's in corners wouldnt be for flow purposes, but more so to decrease my volume to raise tuning, since im a little oversized and at 31hz right now, and i figured 45's made more sense than randomly sticking wood in places... In this local comp no one has any form of sound deadener for the most part so they sit there and rattle, I have a roll of deadener in my trunk the rattles are much better and windshield flex just looks cool

I guess i've decided to get a new battery, and need to know what is adequate and still cheap for my system... I have a clarion 1500 watt amp and stock battery under the hood in a 2000 honda accord. If I run a second battery to the trunk is a kinetik hc800 enough to get the job done(stay above at least 11v) or do I need more and who makes the best cheap batteries? My local shop has a used stinger sp1700 out of their demo van for only 200, that may be the way to go but im hoping to spend less if possible Please and thanks for replies

nice thats a really sweet setup, Is the box some sort of modded TL?

yea, if I was adding a battery to the back in addition to my stock is the condition for my questions...

I have an adjustable voltage stinger capacitor, so right now its 12.5 or so off and about 15 car on, and its only at 15 so it doesnt drop even lower when it hits. You think my stock alt can handle my stock battery and then a kinetik or something similar? What kind of CCA and AH am I looking for to be enough for 1500 watts... Will the kinetik HC800 for $125 do the job or is $200 a good deal for a stinger sp1700? Sorry I have so many questions but if im shelling out the cash I want something that will be very worthwhile.

If I get a new battery and forget the alternator for now, should I get one to replace the one under my hood or just wire it up in the trunk and have my stock battery as well, or will that be detrimental to my alternator...?

what year is yous? externally im 38x17x19 and It has a lil breathing room, after displacement its maybe 4.1... I really dont want to build an spl only box just because I dont want to spend the time for a one or two time use box and then need somewhere to store it, otherwise I could just have fun and build a 4^3 42 or so hz box and kick some arse, but its even more fun to hit high in the mid 30s with flex while everyone else is doing 42-45's and just rattling.

thanks for the placement ideas, do you mean pushed closest or farthest from the cab? i have the port on passenger side right now, so if that makes a difference you may have just won for me ... actually in the last comp since im tuned at 31 my peak was at 36, If I can manage some 45's in the corners that should go up to 37 or 38... I dont know what the mic is and I mean its outlaw... but I got 148.2 last time I had it port passenger side about center of trunk drivers window halfway down. I would love to break 150, just dont know if it's possible

based on pricing, and assuming I would only do one or the other for quite a while, would the battery or alternator be the best place to start? 165 alt... 200+ for battery for something decent, what is a good under hood battery? What is a good battery for both systems and under the hood? ... My local shop has a stinger sp1700 for 200 but I think it is too large for under the hood thanks for the input so far