ANeonRider

mini wafer? Talking about ANL? Here is what you should refer to for sizing fuses. Look at the Power & Ground Cable Specs table. It is length dependant, but this is a good guide. http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp Fuse at the battery for the current carrying capacity of the wire. I usually fuse at 10-15% below the spec listed.

IMO, a fuse block is a fuse block. Pretty difficult to fudge up two pieces of metal with a fuse attached between them. Yes, you can connect 8ga. wire in a 4ga. set screw connection, just make sure the wire is centered, and tight. Also check out Knukonceptz

DO NOT push on the cone... you can wreck the subwoofer. To prevent leaks, make sure all seams are tight and siliconed, etc. You need to pull out the box to find a leak... you can tape a piece of paper near the seams, and run the sub, if the paper blows upwards, then there is a leak.

It does help to set the correct gain. This what you have? http://www.midwestelectronics.com/product_...products_id/140 Other than the gain, I would set everything like this: LP Filter: 72Hz LP Slope: -24dB/oct Subsonic filter: OFF Phase: 0 And to set the gain... Read the gain setting tutorial, and adjust the gain setting on the amp until it is the closest to the voltage it should be.

Do you know how many volts are outputted from the rca adapter?

What headunit?

Came painted, painted w/logo, or inodized.

RL-p's.

To tell ya the truth, maybe only 5 decks ever made do not clip (well, probably more, but you get what I am getting at). Most of them cost much more than $600. Overemphasing a group of frequencies is audio homicide as well.

Benefits of a larger enclosure? Ability to extend lower. More efficient, lower power handling. Flatter response.

Again... struts have no bearing on ride height (unless they are air or coilover-type). Springs are what keep the vehicle suspended, and struts/shocks are what keeps the springs from bouncing all over the place.

Deck may not clip, but the amp will.

Read the gain setting tutorial please.

You don't have to take the gasket off. You can flip it around, or leave it how it is.

Should invert one of them

Common chamber?

ahh, wasn't sure what was adjustable on that thing

Besides incorrect tire pressure, incorrect toe alignment will also cause pre-mature wear.

wow! I got them in today. Now that is faster than I expected. Very nice decals too!

Isobaric, always wanted to do that.

Downloaded the WHOLE Neil Young discography. Wow.

Subwoofer placement in a trunked vehicle Now, you have two good, and two "OK" options: Good 1. Install the subwoofer in the rear side panel (or in between the taillights and the strut tower). This is called corner loading. Since the subwoofer is as far back as possible in the vehicle, there will be no rear sound wave that can interfere. As well, you will have hard boundaries to the rear, and sides. 2. Install the subwoofer in an enclosure facing the very rear of the vehicle. Optimally, within a foot. This allows for the rear wave to exit through into the cabin of the vehicle, as well as the front wave to reflect off of the rear of the vehicle, and be reinforced by the rear wave. "OK" 1. Install the subwoofer in the very front of the trunk (against the rear seats). This is much better than facing the subwoofer forward into the cabin of the vehicle because it still has a hard surface to be loaded against, and the rear wave will not interfere with the reflected front wave. 2. Install the subwoofer facing towards the trunk lid. This method is still better than facing the subwoofer forward into the cabin of the vehicle, but becoming less effective. There is still the hard boundary (trunk lid), and lack of rear wave, but the problem is, the reflected wave from the trunk lid does not flow directly into the cabin. This can be partially alleviated by installing the subwoofer on a slight angle towards the rear of the vehicle. Now, having the subwoofers facing forward (towards the passengers) is not always bad, but you have to ensure that the rear wave cannot reach the front wave. In other words, you must completely seal off the trunk from the cabin of the vehicle. Same can be said for subwoofers installed in the rear deck, and free-air subwoofer installs. Subwoofer placement in a SUV/Hatch Now, in a SUV/Hatch, the whole cabin of the vehicle is open. This makes these vehicles much easier to get loud, and reduces cancellation for the most part. Same principles apply as a trunked vehicle though, but there can be twists to them, such as the ported "CRX-style" box, which has the ports facing the rear of the vehicle, and the subwoofer(s) facing upwards. Here is another good read with some pretty pictures: Subwoofer placement

How about we don't make any "assumptions" and let Mike tell us what is going on?

It isn't

8/2 = 4ohms. You don't only need to use the left output, that is all I am saying, you can run both subs like picture #2, but it is more of a wiring headache.