ANeonRider

Mono front stage... yuck. I'd list that as horrid

Will do that tomorrow.

Thanks and welcome guys... figured its about time we had our own little How-To

Hypothetically, yes, it probably is.

Any of the Maxxsonics guys around?

Most audio equipment dies for one simple reason. Most people push their equipment beyond its limits. Whether it is the amplifier, subwoofer or full range speakers, clipping is the number one cause of failure. To prevent clipping, use this tutorial. To figure out what voltage you should set the gains to, multiply the RMS power of the amplifiers output by the impedance of the speaker, then find the square root of that number. If you are using an amplifier that has an RMS rating of more than your speaker(s) can handle/rated for, then use the RMS rating of the speaker (instead of the RMS of the amplifier) to determine the voltage to set your amp to. This is also referred to as gaining down. Gain Setting Equation Voltage of the output = sqrt(RMS Power X impedance of the speaker) Example Say the amp provides 100WRMS into a 4 ohm speaker: Voltage = sqrt(100W X 4 ohms) Voltage = sqrt(400W*ohms) Voltage = 20V Again, that was only an example, use the ratings of your amp to figure that out. Setting the Gain(s) To set the gain(s), you need two things: 1. A DMM (digital multi-meter) that is capable of measuring AC voltage (needs to be able to measure up to a range of 200V). 2. A test tone CD to use to set the gains at the correct setting. Now, to set the gain(s): 1. Start the vehicle, and pop the test tone CD in the head unit. 2. DO NOT hook up the sub(s) or speaker(s) to the amplifier while doing this, just leave the outputs unused at this time. 3. Now, time to set up the head unit. a. If the loudest you listen to your music at on a regular basis is 22/35 with bass @ +3 and treble @ 0 with MX (or any other sound processor) on, use those settings. NEVER turn the headunit above 3/4 of the maximum volume. b. Remember to have the car turned on. c. If you want to use bass boost on a sub amp, set it prior to setting the gains on the amp and use the center frequency of the bass boost (45 Hz for most amps) as your test tone. d. Please remember that if you have a subwoofer volume control on the headunit and/or a bass knob for the amplifier, set it to the maximum before you set the gains on the sub amp. 4. Take the leads from the DMM and but them on the outputs from the amp. 5. Set the gain so that the outputs of the amplifier equal the voltage you found above. This is a MUST. Here is JL Audio tutorial on their site: http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/Input_Sen...ensitivity.html Here is where you can download some test tones for system testing/gain setting: http://www.ronelmm.com/tones/ http://www.eminent-tech.com/music/multimediatest.html For test tones higher than 80Hz, download this program and you can create your own: Adobe Audition Trial Version It is best to use 50 Hz tone for a sub amp (unless you have bass boost, use the frequency that is boosted as the tone), and a 1kHz tone for a full-range amp. This is a good way to set the gains, but if you have access to an oscilloscope, by all means use it. Then you can set the gains to their absolute maximum as you can see when the amplifier clips. If you are wondering what exactly clipping is, and what it looks like, read this: http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm If you have any questions about this, post up, I

SSF should be set to 1/2 octave below tuning (~26Hz in your case) LPF filter should be set to whatever you feel sounds best. I usually set mine around 50-60 Hz, and let the midbass do the rest of the higher frequency bass. And NO, never max out the gain, read this: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...wtopic=3704&hl=

YOU ARE USING A SEALED BOX, MAXING OUT YOUR DECK, AND USING YOUR GAIN AS A VOLUME KNOB. WHAT DO YOU EXPECT? Let's review what these last 5 pages have been about.. 1. Build a PORTED BOX 2. FIX YOUR WIRING 3. Buy a DMM, and set those gains right 4. Turn down that HU into something a little more reasonable (NEVER do you need to turn a deck up past 3/4 of maximum volume). 5. Read and listen, 5 pages of repetition is gets very tiresome.

I have not seen one that does not.

leave the drama at ca.com please. Every car group has its idiots, just because the SRT-4 is inexpensive, fast for its class, and easy to upgrade doesn't mean there won't be idiots driving them as well. I am sure there are plenty of idiots driving LS1 Camaros too.

You clip the HU... and the signal to the amp will be clipped, and the output to the sub will be too. Putting things to their maximum is always bad news.

Welcome, don't see me on CA.com ever anymore, glad you came over to the "good" side.

You are doing double baffle on the front correct? If so... internal depth dimension of 8.5", not 7.75". Now, with using the 8.5" internal depth, you have too much airspace, comes out to 2.362ft^3 now, and that will throw off your port length as well. Using 7.75" depth, it is 2.111ft^3, and the port length is a little off (~0.25" if you are using an aeroport, 1.25" is you are not)

Do you know the resonant frequency of the car?

lol, smartass. Was looking for the ebay store/seller

the tweeter attenuation circuitry is the -6, -3, 0dB jumpers.

link me

Just checking pricing on various different places. What places do you guys use for your resin/matte/cloth?

Underpowering doesn't blow subs, clipping does. Just be smart with the volume knob. Make sure the amp can handle the impedance of the sub too.

Draw up a new one with the dimensions you have come up with. I'll check it again.

Normally, you will need to aim the tweeters and mids at different angles. I suggest making up some baffles, get some hotglue, and velcro strips. Then... set up the baffles in different arrangements until you find the setup that sounds the best to you. Forget about the lack of bass, etc. Listen for the imaging, find some vocal only tracks to test with.

Rl-p is 7" deep, so with 8.5" of depth, you will have ~ 0.75" of clearance (if the sub is top mounted). I would do at least 1.5". Remember, you need to account for port displacement, and sub displacement as well

assuming that the outside dimensions are 43"x14.5"X8.5" .... What sub are you using? With the depth you have stated, you cannot fit a sub any deeper than 5". As well, the box as shown, will only be 1.856 ft^3, the port lengths are off because of this.

Not quite... the wood needed for a slot port displaces much more than the 1/4" PVC does. As well, you need more port area in a slot port, than you will for a round port due to friction. Having ports coming from two different planes will case mad cancellation. Keep the ports to one plane.

Yes, you can get more... but the higher bass frequencies (from ~70-200Hz) are directional. If you want any sort of soundstage, they are to be reproduced by the midbass drivers.