ANeonRider

Different cars, different results, right? Neons are known to be a pretty loud trunked car.

Stanky cooooch?

Probably want to go that way anyways with all that open air.

It's maple ply.

Easy is an understatement. Now that Peerless has the 7" SLS and CSS has the SDX-7 (amongst others), very easy. Is there a website with more info on these brands? Thanks, -Bio Peerless SLS 7" <--- dedicated midbass Creative Sound Solutions SDX7<---- wider range midbass/midrange, can be used as a dedicated midbass, or as the midwoofer in a 2 way.

Feel like I'm back in school here guys

Easy is an understatement. Now that Peerless has the 7" SLS and CSS has the SDX-7 (amongst others), very easy.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...c=16905&hl= High Current Amp talk alert!

P.S. WTF is a high current amp. Don't make things up. Ohms law hasn't changed. I quit reading after that.

Indistinguishable in a car, in a uber quiet enviroment like a treated room in a home, maybe. Amplifier efficiency is only ever taken into account in car audio, and some still don't. Depends on your system goals. Driver efficiency is just as important, if not more.

No... it means that 20% of the current draw is wasted in heat. That means if you have an amplifier capable of 1000W, it needs 1200W worth of power to supply it. P.S. About 95% of the power your amplifier supplies is wasted as heat.

Search Hoffman's Iron Law on the forums here, but in short, the enclosure effects the sound greatly.

Well, in that case, sounds good to me. If I had known that earlier, I wouldn't have said anything. So the module will do an absorption charge @ 15.5V, and trickle charge @ 14.7. Makes more sense now. I was under the impression it was absorption charging all the time.

Since this is the Mach 5 Audio forum... going to go with Mach 5 Audio.

Where do I get this information? I work on 150kW-300kW power systems all the time, we monitor battery charging voltages & resting voltage to ensure we DO NOT OVERCHARGE. Overcharging can cause catastrophic battery failures, as well as weak cells causing multiple battery failures. When this happens, and we get power bumps, we LOSE AIR TRAFFIC SYSTEMS. That means we will get planes FLYING BLIND & DUMB. No radar, no communications, nothing. I'm sorry, but just because some people charge their 12V battery systems at 16V doesn't make it correct. Hell, look at Optima's site, they list that their batteries shall not be charged at a voltage higher than 15V. The goal here should be to get a constant 14.4-14.8V of charging voltage... not to ramp up the charging voltage beyond what a battery can handle.

That's for sure. Go home on Friday!

You've obviously never seen the outcome of overcharging a battery before... at best case, capacity is lessened, at worst case the battery blows up. I've seen the worst case, so under no condition would I ever condone overcharging a battery.

How much? $50 shipped up there. I'll get a hold of you in a month, after I move & get settled.

How much?

No matter how many times or how well they explain it, the clowns won't get it.

Awaiting the internet clown backlash due to AA going brick & mortar...

Looks like the Chaintech AV-710 is discontinued now ... have to look around & see what other options there are for inexpensive sound cards.

Not always the case, what about when its not hot outside? Pavement still gets warm enough to warm the air above it without the sun shining. All I am saying is that lower isn't necessarily better (or cooler). No need to go lower than 12" from the pavement (saying this because I too often see these intakes that are much too close to the road surface). Really what you should be concerned with is your intake systems resonant frequency, both the intake manifold & intake tube.

Pavement... gets really hot under that sun & heats the air.

Ya... length. Intake tube length & diameter is the same as tuning a port for an enclosure. Tuning of the intake "pulses" is actually much more important than the temperature of the air being ingested. 9/10 the air over top of the pavement is just as hot as the air in the your engine bay anyways. What you really want is to have the intake pick up its air from a high pressure area within the chassis of the vehicle.