ANeonRider

Interesting, that's what the H701 is! I'd trust it over something like the XM-6 anyday. There are programs out there that make the H701s flexibility look feeble too, like Console. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26023

The best thing I have done to the car. Sure helps ear fatigue & driving comfort besides calming rattles.

Happy Birthday!!!!!

Yep, picking your own drivers has a MUCH better bang for the buck. You can spend a ton still if you desire, or you can go with a budget system & still get way more driver for the dollar than any prepackaged passive from a major manufacturer. But yes, at minimum, I would use a head unit that is active capable, like the Pioneer 880prs, Alpine Bass Engine Pro units, some Eclipses, Ural, etc. I know there is a list going somewhere around here.

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The Neon should be GTG to 8500 rpm shift point, but the cam might not make any more power above 8000. Need to go bigger for that.

Right now, I'll just let everyone know exactly what I told Mark previous to him sending the final specifications to the buildhouse. I am in love with this driver Mark. Low frequency authourity during movies is very good and blends extremely well with my BIB CSS FR125S drivers (completely transparent). It suits my listening habits very well. I have only tried it in a sealed enclosure, but I do not feel I would gain anything for my own personal tastes going with a vented enclosure. Power handling wise, I don't think I could approach the driver's limits with what I have (1300W @ 4 ohms), the driver is a beast. I wouldn't hesitate to say that it would be one of the best SQ 10s I have heard to date. No overhang, no bloating on the lower notes (even if I am using a larger enclosure for a 10" driver @ 1.1ft^3). So transparent, sometimes I have to check to see if its on! I think you have another winner here Mark. Now, as some of you know, my home theatre configuration is as follows: DIY Class A/B amplifier, with an output of 46W RMS into 8 ohms CSS FR125S in a BIB enclosure (http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=11940&st=30) Keiga KGND52100 1200W@4ohms plate amp IXL10 10" in the 1.1ft^3 Now, since the midbass & overall response is excellent from the FR125S drivers in the BIB enclosure, and this was in a HT configuration in a large room, I could get away with a larger sealed enclosure so that: a) I could match the output of the BIBs with a very strong low end (15-55Hz). b) Have extreme impact while watching movies c) Test the subwoofers control And, as you read above, the IXL did all three of my criteria EXTREMELY well. Since I am currently 3600km away from home until May 2, once I get back home, I will sit down in front of the system & do more critical listening & post my thoughts.

He got a demo a couple months ago to test around the same time I received a IXL10 from Mark. Speaking of which, I'm going to put together a quick review right now. Then get more detailed when I get home, and can write it while I listen.

Looks cool, but the plenum is so small!

You'll want to get some sort of sound absorbing layer too (Overkill). If you are discretionary with the installation (unlike myself ), you could probably get away with a shop pack of Pro.

Ok... he's asking about a $300 Headunit & you suggest a $1000 head unit? Get real.

If you are all about the Ipod... get one of the Alpine iDA units... http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/s...p?category=IPOD

Had to ask the gf about 6 times what her dad's name was, oops.

Damn, I have to get a review written asap. Let me say this, the IXL-10 is a pleasure to listen to.

Can't use math to figure it out... especially in a car... But, nice try.

feeling like shit & flying out in 100 minutes. Don't get to sleep in my bed again until May 2.

That's the nice to look at side, the other side of my piece of crap Brutus had the worst soldering job I have EVER seen.

Very well. Might want to lower than 100Hz with them though.

In the Nissan or Neon? Nissan. I wouldn't think twice about cutting up the Neon.

Sometime I'm going to do another version of my doors. I really wish I felt comfortable cutting the opening in the door skin larger.

Just *lol'd* to myself, my subs in the Spec are LP'd at the same frequency the so called bassheads tune their ported "boxes" at.

Now, time for 8" midbass in the doors!

That would be broke... and cause? Likely overexursion. Need a new tinsel lead, solder won't hold it together well.

feel like i was run over with a bus, almost fell asleep in my chair.

Titebond Glue, clamps (no screws ftw), & a mixture of MDF dust & glue for the internal joints to ensure a solid seal.