ANeonRider

No such thing as health foods... only healthy balanced diets. We all need a certain amount of carbs, protein & healthy fat to survive.

You stop too.

STOP

Like I was telling Sean while I was down there, seems everything is "fat free" but so loaded with sugar it disgusted me looking at the label. No wonder there is a diabetes problem.

A touch over $250: CSS SDX15 SSA Icon 15" AA Arsenal 15" Soundsplinter RL-p 15" Plus many many more options, that price point has a lot of great choices. What amp?

I think I'll clarify that you can successfully crossover the tweets/mids at 2k no problem if they are in VERY close proximity to one another. Otherwise you'll get a very confused image.

Still ill

from around 250Hz to 4-4.5k. On axis in the door? Not quite. You would have to stuff them in the kicks & aim well to get them on axis. In the door = off axis.

IB is not the loudest subwoofer configuration, nor is it for a system that does not have excellent midbass from the front end. Basically, it gets very low, but expectedly, the power handling and output is reduced. Most rap that I have played in my setup actually is played by my midbass because they tend to overemphasize the 50-60Hz region. That being said, my single 15" subwoofer in the IB configuration was able to TL @ 133.6 @ 30Hz on 350W.

2 15s IB is though... But serious, if you are concerned with SQ, figure out the other drivers that do the real work first

resin does not strengthen at all.

I prefer seeing when I'm driving.

Most good 6.5" drivers that are designed for 2 way applications should be fine up to 5kHz, look at the frequency response of the Seas CA/ER of the Prestige series or Scanspeak Revs or Seas Excel for example. Key is the installation (on or off axis). The problem with crossing over so low (2k) is that you get a floating image & power handling issues with most tweeters (which is why so many blow tweeters so often). This can be slightly modified dependant on how close proximity the drivers are to each other. Personally, I couldn't stand to hear tweeters playing below 4k. You want the as much of the midrange/vocal range to play through one size driver. Personally, I wouldn't touch Morel drivers, not a fan. Peerless HDS is you are going large format.

I feeel so damn ill right now. Fucking fever.

What do you need to know?

I skipped everything up to now... 2 way or 3 way? If you are wanting a powerful 8" driver for midbass for a 3 way... look no further than the SLS from Peerless For a 2 way, Seas, either the CA version is my pick. Peerless Exclusive is 2nd to them. Either way, a 8" driver in a 2 way system is going to be very hard to implement well, due to frequency response.

IB in car is definately not the same as in home... Any midbass driver will perform well in IB in the doors. VAS & Fs should be considered as well, over & above QTS.

I gots the fever.

This is another truth.

I like Rochester , Madison would be fun too...hope you are 21 by then though, it is a party town. I plan on being IL/MN/WI June 8-16 or something like that... sooo, those are pretty decent dates for me. sounds like the meet should be in MN/WI around the 14-16 to me Madison = Madisound

It has meant nothing to me longer than you. LOL, truth.

I turned 21 long times ago... although, 21 means nothing here

I like Rochester , Madison would be fun too...hope you are 21 by then though, it is a party town. I plan on being IL/MN/WI June 8-16 or something like that... sooo, those are pretty decent dates for me.

Like you would wire a 4 ohm driver... Read the article in the technical area about Efficiency. I wouldn't touch anything eD even if it was free... a matter of principle due to the crook that runs the company.

Me too. Try a direct ground to the battery.