ANeonRider

Bored at work, home in 20 min.

I wouldn't say a TON of knowledge. There are SOME knowledgeable people, and a lot of good driver reviews & measurements.

Heading to the Twin Cities tomorrow

Ooooo Canada

Midbass is about as musical as a drum, the long pipes of an organ & bass strings get. You want a midrange to play the most amount of musical information as possible, like I think I've said, my 3" midrange is playing 280Hz up to 5k, no problem. The midbass is there for the midbass (and forcefully too), most midbasses are located in the doors, so you want to keep its frequency bandwidth as narrow as possible to eliminate localization. The sub just fills in the VERY lows (45Hz & below). My midbass also reaches low enough to not really need a subwoofer.... but I chose to anyways. Efficiency & frequency response depends largely in the installation as well. Cabin gain will transfer to anything that emits sound waves.

Lightly stuffed, maybe a pound of fill.

Stereo would only apply if you are running your subs up front up to frequencies that become directional (aka midbass)

Just saw this: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19445 Kinda interested in picking some up... you interested in any Sean? If you are, maybe we can split up some.

I've stayed still at 220lbs since I was last at the gym... which is nice. My body can maintain weight well.

At least traffic is light

I'm out east the last week of this month... a week out there is plenty for me. Going to be visiting a friend in Ottawa at the same time too.

4 more days until the road trip

I had 3-10s, a year ago before I went with my current system... which is detailed further into the build log. They were all wired to the same amp, 4 ohm coils in parallel for a 2 ohm load each & subs in parallel. Final impedance could be considered weird (0.66666666666666... ohms) but, with impedance rise & impedance changing due to frequency, it was not a problem with the amp I used (stable to 1 ohm).

I gotta get back to the gym... havent been since July. Maybe tomorrow after work.

Pretty much the jist. The doors in those cars should have enough room for a 8 (stock 6x9)... not sure about depth. Driver selection really depends if you want to go active or not & driver selection dictates installation locations. A 3way would allow you to use a dedicated midbass... while a 2way system will have to use a midbass/midrange driver that is VERY good off-axis & some well placed time correction.

Kicker makes a good component set... the SS series. Really, if you are going to do it right, you will want to move up to a 8" or dual 6.5" midbass & go active with the crossovers. If you want to see an example of IB & the install I performed to accompany it, click on my project log link in my signature. And, Scott has customized Q's for the HT crowd, and it is a good option.

And to add, power handling/midbass response is also a function of the install. If you are locating them in the doors, sealing your doors to provide the driver a nearly IB enclosure will be a HUGE improvement over not doing so... as will fully deadening & using a sound barrier. This will allow you to get lower/more accurate while using less power.

Mark is working on filling out the IXL series lineup currently.

Depends on the driver really. Ideal IB drivers should have a high VAS, higher QTS (>0.4) & low FS. If you want great low end output, a high XMAX, or multiple drivers as well (although I barely use any of my capable throw while listening to music). There is no other alignment IMO that provides low end extension & accuracy. IB is very basically a infinitely large sealed enclosure. The typical sealed enclosure gets close with respect to accuracy, but not output (due to the low freq. roll off due to the enclosure). I run my single 15" IB LP @ 45Hz, and was able to meter it @ 133.6dB (TL @ legal dash location) at 32Hz. Power wise, the thermal power handling is no longer considered, but the mechanical handling. All subs are normally rated @ their thermal handling, so it is a good estimate to say that it can handle half the thermal power level in an IB configuration. I was maybe using 300-350W to achieve the above stated output level. Going with IB depends a ton on what other drivers you are using as well... you need great midbass response to do it properly.

Except it is worse than Peal & Seal. Raamat at the very least... I would have used it or Second Skin if I lived south of the border.

Alpine dealers, if you are looking online, Crutchfield. Fortunately one of my best friends is the car audio manager at a local dealer, so I get everything for nearly cost. Even at cost, my combo cost me $1500CDN.

I'd like to throw out there that my rear seat passengers receive just as good of sound staging & output as I do in my driver's seat. No rear fill.

It will work good. You will have to wire the sub coils in series, then bridged on the amp.

If they are anything like my midbass', they are one hell of a driver. Although, he already has purchased his subwoofers.

The D310/D105 have secondary video outputs. I LOVE my Alpine combo, although, like Sean above, I will be going with a DIY CarPC in my other car. The Alpine screens have basic time alignment/eq by themselves, but the H701 is a huge step up with respect to adjustment capabilities. The Alpine option is also a better out-of-the-box integrated solution compared to a CarPC, unless you have some time on your hands.