johnecon2001

29hz would hopefully let the sub match the lower frequencies a little better with the spike at 55hz. Of course, it wouldn't be completely even (you'd need a good EQ for that) but it might help a little.

Yeah, really a 16v system is all you can do in your current situation. Good thing the Sundowns take that voltage like champs. The BTL's are a good option as well, but the NightShade... mmmm. Might as well keep it all in the Sundown family if you know what I mean.

You could always add polyfill in a sealed application to make up for what you lack in cubic feed. 20-40oz would do quite a bit for you.

Most plate amps have adjustable crossovers on them.

I'm pretty sure sonic doesn't have a clue as to what he's talking about. The Hifonics amps are overrated. There's no getting around that. They do NOT sound like Zapco amps. There's a stark difference between spending $200 on an amp and $600 on a better amp. Zapco made it's name in SQ. Hifonics made it's name in cheap power, which progressed into cheaper-not-so-great-power.

The T/s specs lead me to believe the Dayton would do better in a sealed box than the Vega. It looks like the CV is more inclined to be in a ported box. Also, I don't know if you saw this on Acoustic-Visions, I completely forgot about it too. Exodus Audio made their own version of the Shiva. Its now called the Shiva-X. Twice the power handling and mroe excursion. http://www.acoustic-visions.com/~acoustic/...drivers/shivax/ That would probably fit your bill better.

No, the BL will not be able to handle a 3000kW amp. You'd be better off stepping up to the BTL or stepping the amp down the the SAZ-1500D. The shop that's building the box needs to build it to Fi's spec (which can be found on their website). If they're a good shop it'll be tuned correctly. HOWEVER, you should do your own research and design (or get help designing) and build your own box. For either amp you go with you'll need a minimum of 1/0awg wire. For the 3000D you'll also need a Larger alternator under the hood and an extra battery.

Holy post batman.

Yikes that's tiny. I did some research on the sub.. it's extremely peaky in a ported box right around 55hz. The sealed frequency curve looks far better though. Pioneer recommends no less than .8^3ft per driver ported or sealed. With the space you have per woofer, I would recommend that you either make a smaller 1 sub ported box and tune as low as 29hz, or make a sealed box and add a ton of poly fill into it to try and make up for the space you don't have. I mean face the facts here. First off its a shallow mount sub, obviously not ment for getting loud, more or less ment for making up a minimal amount low end in cars that don't have a ton of room. Secondly two subs in that small of a space is almost impractical. Especially for a ported box. If you do decide to say the hell with it and just port the box, its going to sound really weird with that little airspace. They'lll play higher frequencies than you want and it'll be far easier to pop the subs with less wattage.

Sure, although for the power you want to feed the subs, BL's would probably be a better choice.

The BL's.

I believe he has two 15" BL's and one SAZ-3000D

Looks like you're mostly set then. Things you still need to decide on: Type of deadener How much deadener Type of subs (pioneer slims don't exactly scream SQ to me) Electrical upgrades (if any) Front speaker mounting locations Overall, most SQ systems use single driver sub setups in sealed environments. Obviously, if he's interested in the McIntosh stuff, he's got some money to throw around. Time to start looking at DynAudio, Morel, Rainbow and other such brands for subs. Hell you could probably even go for a JL W6. I don't personally have a whole lot of experience with higher end subwoofers though.

That's going to be even less space after you add subs, port and wood thickness. With those dimensions and 3/4" MDF you're looking at 1.13^3ft sealed. Seems, you could have one sub be happy with that. Certainly not two, ported at least.

I don't have any experience (direct or indirect) with the Cerwin Vega. I believe Mark/Aaron just needed a decently good beginner sub that was under $100 for noobs in the store. Did you have a budget that you needed to stay under?

Have you contacted any of the major HO alternator resources yet? A couple to try are Iraggi, Excessive Amperage, Ohio Gen and Mean Green.

The Mach 5 Audio MAW-12 (comes in DVC4) (although it only really needs at the most 400w) would fit the bill. The Sundown Audio SD-1v2 12" (unfortunately 8 ohms) (same lower wattage except around 300w). Also the Soundsplinter RL-i10 (10's are nice) takes 200-500w and comes in DVC4 as well. Lastly the Ascendant Audio ASSASSIN 12". 250w DVC4. All great subs, that sound excellent. And all are priced reasonably. Although, I still can't compare them to a Shiva. I have one.. but there's no chance you're getting your hands on that lol.

Drop the circuit breakers for some fuses. The breakers hinder voltage slightly. Add more runs of 1/0awg. But honestly.. your numbers are fine. Those are standard voltages.

You'd use one and a half of them for the fronts alone and two channels for the rears. And you still need an amp for the subs. If you're not going to be using the rears much... just run them off the Head unit. More than enough power for something he won't be using much.

Can you knock the RSS feeds out of the "view new posts" link? That way when I click it to see what newbs need help, I don't get a bunch or articles.

Could do a MAW-10 from Mach5 Audio in a ported Box. 1^3ft is all it want ported. Plus you wouldn't need as much power to get it loud so your amp cost would go down as well. Overall it would be a cheaper option for you.

Moving to Hall of Fitness.

Depends on who does the recone for you.

You can loop the remote wire out of one amp into the other. That wiring and fusing is still fine for that wattage.

You add the power together. So for two BTL's the total need is 4kW.