johnecon2001

What subs are you referring too? What size will each box be? Will your voltage stay at a constant 14.4? What altitude are you at? What is your cabs resonant frequency? Is your interior leather or carpet? What temperature will the outside air be? What temperature will the inside air be? Basically what I'm saying here is... there is no possible way to tell what will "hit harder". Pick one setup, and be happy. If you're not, save more money and get the other setup.

What type of budget are you looking at for a Professional Audio amp? You'll need at least 800w @ 4 ohms.

Ported to where? Your other option is to build a new box with a super low tuning (ala 25-28hz). When you go sealed, you give up output but the sound is much more accurate.

Should put some kind of end connector on them. Banana Plug, spade or something other.

I like the deck quite a bit, it does have a great bit of function for a relatively low price.

You'll run the risk of starving the amp of voltage below 12v. And at .5 ohms if the amp blows, you're not under warranty, so the repair will come out of your pocket.

If you want want to run 1kW to each driver, I would go with the 2x 10" ported. That should get pretty nasty for a couple of tens.

Your goal is to keep your voltage above 12v at all times. If you just run one 1500D @ .5 ohms, you'll need a 180-200a alternator along with a better than stock deep cycle or AGM battery up front.

There isn't an SSD forum dude.

Well if your name is any indication of how much money you want to spend.. I would just get the BL.

I doubt AAfanatic knows what he's talking about.. Did you try blowing the sub out with compressed air yet?

It's stable if you have a proper electrical backbone.

here's a bigger one lol

Just turn the gain down, you don't have to give the sub the full 1000w.

The BL has the power handling advantage over the SSD's. But the SSD's have a cone area advantage. It's all going to come down to box essentially. A bigger sub/larger enclosure has nothing to do with electrical demand.

That would be a very nice setup, although, I don't think you're looking for the type of sound that the RL-s is going to give you. It sounds like you just want a street beater. I could be wrong though, so why don't you tell us what you're looking for exactly and what systems you've had/heard in the past and what you've liked.

What's your budget like chief?

http://www.lightav.com/car/amps/poweramps.html Also keep in mind that just because an amp is on that list, doesn't mean it does rated power.

I need amps and speaker model numbers to answer this. Theoretically it would work though. You are describing it a little weird.

Do you have a budget? How many watts are you looking for?

:gayfight2:

Noise-Killers is FatMat.

Why are the SPL amps garbage? You show me a 3000w amp that actually does that power RMS for under $400 new. 1) SPL isn't CEA-2006 compliant. Meaning, they either rate their amps off of an inflated voltage scale or they just lie. 2) Just looking at them, you know they're cheap inefficient amps. 3) How many other people do you see running them?

1) When you have a speaker playing a subsonic frequency.. THD doesn't matter because you won't hear it. 2) SPL amps are garbage, the SSD's deserve something better 3) The RMS on the SSD is 800w. Going off of you "think" it can handle more than 1200w is a silly assumption. You'll end up voiding the warranty if you continue.

We like emo kids here.. ... wait.. did I just say that?