req

well thats cool

good idea right there yes, just dont kill yourself. they can still hold some serious power yep. shouldnt be any problems.

price?

if you just cut the wires that go from the switch to the cathode, mount the cathode whereever, run new wires, and solder them in place while using the rest of the stuff, plus an old computer supply, you should be golden. this one comes with the switch, and a sensitivity knob (and it senses music too) http://www.oznium.com/cathode-kit-15 $7+shipping great deal if you ask me. just cut the wires you see here, and extend them to wherever you need them to go - 16awg speaker wire should be perfect. and the other side should plug right into the power supply. but you will have to leave the power supply on 24\7... you might wanna try and find some way to switch it on\off from where the lights swich will be mounted. i know how to do this, but i strongly dont recommend opening a powersupply like this without knowing what the hell you are doing : they contain capicators that could discharge and not feel too good.

so wheres them pictures at?

as long as the steering column is a fixed one, and there is that 'shaft' inside it. you are fine. i usually look to put them right where you have yours.

so any info how how they sound? or is that just a moot point too? ;p

wait. so your firends girl is taking a picture of you - you arent wearing a shirt... and you have a santa hat on. im guessing that you both porked hardcore on the countertop after that, or you are a big pussy. because if there is grass on the field - playball... but if there aint grass on the field, get it wet, and play in the mud

hah! my blower was just far enough to the left that i could squeeze the motor for my CD2 in between it and the firewall\wheelwell. and i mean SQUEEZE it. the driverside fits like a dream... hopefully i can fit the kick trim back on you might as well write "req" on the bottom of those kodas i wish i still had them.

this thread has "doorpod" in it. and i see no doorpod, or anything regarding a doorpod you make me cry more than an emo kid with a razor listining to bright eyes.

usually, the person who bought it to begin with is in a tight spot and needs a wad of cash, moreso than he needs his subwoofer. me, ive saved up long ago for this. and rightfully so. i will be feeding my RLS ~2500w at most from a viper2500.1 @ 2ohms. more often though, it will get 800~1000 with the gains as low as i can stand tho. my electrical will be wanting a new alt if i crank it any further competitions on the other hand, will love burps. even though it is sealed

coolbeans. ive heald off for months not buying a new sub for the RLS. there are two uberwoofers screaming at me... i have to avert my eyes from them over at ca.com

let me know how that sounds. i have two next 8's, two next 10's, and a couple amps. im looking at doing like 150 per 8 in a sealed box.

sorry for the O\T post. what the hell is in your avatar? is it a fish in a fishtank, witha human pinky finger? back O\T try the big three. then if that dosnt work, scoop a new alt. maybe a battery. kinetik batteries are going real cheap if you know who to talk to. mine kicks ass.

how you gonna cover up the stock holes that you can see at the top? most of all, how do they sound?

mike - you completly own. i would never espect any company (espicalyl the CEO) to write an update to their buisness production and problems on a forum, just to 'let us know'. again stepping further and giving us the heads up. mad props. anywho. im extremly pumped about my RL-s - i get my amp tomrrow, and im still workin on the rest of the install. ill be using a 10 for the time being. i cant wait for them to be done get in touch with me as soon as you get a 15" production unit on the shelf

another reason why i hate chevy. GM pisses me off.

cabin size box size port tuning speaker reflections(windows, bare metal, ect)\absorbing surfaces (cloth, ect) flexing (cabin and box) box placement direction port\sub face in the cabin trunk\suv\hatchback there are ALOT of factors. get on a TL, like nick said - burp a sweep, and find your best harmonic (sealed box is a good way to do this). rule of thumb, tune your ported box (for SPL of course) to about an octave below that harmonic. some people say 10hz. this is what testing is for. keep playing with box placement, sub directions\port directions, box size, port size\tuning, mass loading, and all the stuff you CAN change. and see if anything you do gets you higher scores. and keep going from there. but ive never done this stuff. so i cant really help you anymore than that :

yep. quite the noob.

where is canton NY? anywhere near central NY? have fun buddy

oh cmon man. more pictures already!

any news mike?

thanks for the kind words effendi. your pods are comming along great. i hope mine go just as smooth as yours, but mine are gonna be considerably larger than yours i just hope i can find a good way of attaching them

thats practically exactally what im onsta be doing

It's been OVER 6months for you...plenty of time foo! Oh, and don't be tickling Brian's butt too much, he needs to come back UN-GAY...like he came... NG <{POST_SNAPBACK}> HAHA! if any ticklings going to be happening, im sure he would get some from you, and bring it to me. but im getting the car driveable before he gets here. i hope. i got like 10 days